For Bloomfield Hills Michigan, the native pine I recommend is the Jack pine, Pinus banksiana. I have been finding them reasonably good for bonsai. Treat them using techniques and timing recommended for scots pine, Pinus sylvestris or mugo, Pinus mugo. Jack pine is a full sun requiring pine. They do need a nearly full day of direct sun. Given that, needles seem to reduce well and they seem to grow and back bud reasonably well. I have 2 grafted named cultivars and several "normal type" seedlings. I think they are great. They are difficult to collect, but once in a nursery pot for 2 years, they seem just as hardy and easy to work with as any mugo of scots pine. Some don't like the twisted needles of some of the P. banksiana, but they otherwise make a nice bonsai. Jack pine is very, very winter hardy.
Red pine, Pinus resinosa, is an absolute, full sun requiring pine. They are prone to drop any branches that get shaded. If your outdoor growing bench is against a building or fence, the side of the tree that is against the structure that blocks the sun from above, the branches on that side of the tree are prone to die and then drop. In theory they could be okay for bonsai, they are related to Pinus nigra of Europe, which is used in Europe for bonsai. I think if you can set them in the middle of the yard, with unobstructed full sun, they might work as bonsai. If I tried one, I would go for a larger scale bonsai, between 3 feet and 4 feet tall or wide. The larger size would minimize the fact that they have long needles and moderately coarse branching. They are not common, because the few who tried them, did not have much luck. So I agree, for a beginner they are not a good choice.
Non-native pines that work well in your area would include: Scots pine, Pinus sylvestris, probably one of the best, can have nice "blue color", that some people really like. Needles are straight, and reduce well as ramification increases.
Mugo, Pinus mugo, is a local favorite. Vance Wood is within 50 miles of your location, and has worked with mugo for probably 50 years, proving that mugo pines from nursery stock do make wonderful bonsai. Mugo are readily available and can be cheap to pick up. I recommend getting several. The down side of mugo is they are slow to transition from nursery stock to bonsai. You are looking at a minimum of 5 years, to 10 years to get the transition to a single trunk line made. But that is about their only negative. I like mugo. Super winter hardy
Lodgepole pine, Pinus contorta var latifolia, (Note: the Shore pine race of P. contorta var contorta is not as winter hardy, be certain it is the Lodgepole pine, the Rocky Mountain race of P. contorta that you obtain) The Lodgepole is related to the Jack pine, so in many ways behaves similarly. Winter hardy
Pitch Pine, Pinus rigida is an excellent pine, noted for back budding. (note in Michigan, pitch pine will be best treated as a single flush pine, our summers are too short to take advantage of its ability to double flush.) It is winter hardy, though a protected spot in the yard is appropriate. Zone 6a is near their cold limit. Maybe zone 5a in the ground, but in a pot zone 6a is about as cold as you want to go.
Japanese black pine - Pinus thunbergii - this pine is not quite hardy in Michigan. It is the archetypical pine for bonsai, but if you do not have a good set up to protect it in winter, it is not a good choice. Best for zone 7 and warmer, even though in the ground they are good in zone 6, in a pot in zone 6 you will loose them one winter out of 5 will be cold enough to kill them.
Pinus parviflora - Japanese white pine - JWP- these grow well in Michigan. Or at least reasonably well. They are a "not for beginners" pine, there is a lot to learn about them. Most JWP are grafted. The grafting understock matters. If grafted onto Japanese black pine, they will NOT be winter hardy. If grafted on Scots pine, or Eastern white pine, they WILL BE winter hardy. So it takes some investigation to source a good JWP. You can get air layers of 2 varieties "Zuisho' and 'Kokonoe', these will be hardy on their own roots. JWP seedlings are all over the map. Many seedling JWP will have unattractive yellowish foliage and often have twisting needles. Occasionally a seedling will have the nice "blue" foliage that we like and short, straight needles. If you go with seedlings, buy seed, and start your own. Maybe around 5 %, will have the nice foliage. You need to raise the seedlings to the 3 to 5 year age to get an idea what the mature foliage will look like. So you can see why most of us source grafted plants.
Pinus flexilis - Limber pine - seems to do well in Michigan. Similar to JWP but with longer needles.
Ponderosa pines - Pinus ponderosa - they have long needles, but if you spend the money to get an old, collected tree, the gnarly bark on the old trunks is outstanding. They are very winter hardy.
my favorite source is
www.goldenarrowbonsai.com
There are more pines. But this list should get you started. I really suggest Jack pine for native, and Scots, and mugo for non native pines.