help! osmocote questions!!

I was using Miracle Grow 20-20-20 at 7 to 10 times recommended dose for a couple of years. I switched to Grow More 20-20-20 for a few years at high dosage as well. I do not remember when I finally went to Jacks Professional 20-20-20 with Micro Nutrients but I think I am entering the 2nd season now(it does not foam up when mixing). With that one I have been using 5 to 7 times the amount stated. I find I see no ill effects... Perhaps it is mostly inorganic substrate BUT not everything is in total inorganics. Based on several years of playing I do not see it possible to over fertilize if the substrate is free draining and porous enough to retain some. My Wife uses Osmocote on most all of her Tropicals and I never see her measure - she tosses in on liberal about 3 times in the Summer and once Mid Winter.
Bottom line it I find it hard to believe the fertilizer itself caused ill effects...

Grimmy
 
I was using Miracle Grow 20-20-20 at 7 to 10 times recommended dose for a couple of years. I switched to Grow More 20-20-20 for a few years at high dosage as well. I do not remember when I finally went to Jacks Professional 20-20-20 with Micro Nutrients but I think I am entering the 2nd season now(it does not foam up when mixing). With that one I have been using 5 to 7 times the amount stated. I find I see no ill effects... Perhaps it is mostly inorganic substrate BUT not everything is in total inorganics. Based on several years of playing I do not see it possible to over fertilize if the substrate is free draining and porous enough to retain some. My Wife uses Osmocote on most all of her Tropicals and I never see her measure - she tosses in on liberal about 3 times in the Summer and once Mid Winter.
Bottom line it I find it hard to believe the fertilizer itself caused ill effects...

Grimmy
Grimmy, What is your source for the Jacks Professional? Internet or local? I would like to try it out.
 
Grimmy, What is your source for the Jacks Professional? Internet or local? I would like to try it out.

Our local Agway Farm Supply carries it not certain who else might honest. It is a good product and worth looking for. Perhaps their Support people could help you in relation to your location on resellers :)

Edit: Do not leave it in a galvanized watering can for extended periods as it tends to fog the finish up. I suspect it in the micronutrients but also know my Haws was not inexpensive...

EDIT #2: Store Locator - http://www.jrpeters.com/Support/Find-a-Retailer.html :)

Grimmy
 
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Eric Group said:
What size pots were they in? Might still have been a big overdose for potted plants... Did they have 2 inch trunks? If they were in "bulb" pots or half gallon size and were small "pre- bonsai" trees, you prolly only need a light dusting of that kind of stuff- clearly was not a slow release. Osmocote should yield much better results. Apply with a little scoop around a tblspoon for most medium to small sized trees.... Supplement with some liquid ferts in Spring if you want a boost, but try to find a good organic fert cake as well... Good luck!
Thank you for the reply eric. 3 of them were in like 2 gallon containers and the trodden was in a little 5x7" pot or something like that. it definitely wasnt slow release I wouldnt say. The trunk diamter on these said trees were 1-2" thick. Thats why I only sprinkled a little bit over the surface. It actually probably wasnt even half a cup at all. Maybe 1/4 of a cup but less for the trident. Im hoping for good results with the osmocote as it is slow release and a lot of people swear by it. Thanks for your input. The hardest part about bonsai, for me at this point, would be fertilizing although its really simple. I've reached the point in this hobby where if I am to advance at all I'm going to have to fertilize. A lot of my pre bonsai are transitioning into inorganic substrate and are going to need nutrients!
 
I was using Miracle Grow 20-20-20 at 7 to 10 times recommended dose for a couple of years. I switched to Grow More 20-20-20 for a few years at high dosage as well. I do not remember when I finally went to Jacks Professional 20-20-20 with Micro Nutrients but I think I am entering the 2nd season now(it does not foam up when mixing). With that one I have been using 5 to 7 times the amount stated. I find I see no ill effects... Perhaps it is mostly inorganic substrate BUT not everything is in total inorganics. Based on several years of playing I do not see it possible to over fertilize if the substrate is free draining and porous enough to retain some. My Wife uses Osmocote on most all of her Tropicals and I never see her measure - she tosses in on liberal about 3 times in the Summer and once Mid Winter.
Bottom line it I find it hard to believe the fertilizer itself caused ill effects...

Grimmy
Thanks bud! They were all In regular organic potting soil, except for the trident. How many times would you recommend applying a slow release pellet fertilizer like osmocote? The reason that I am learning about this topic is because I've reached a stage with all my pre bonsai where they will be transitioning into an all inorganic fast draining substrate. I would still like to fertilize the ones in organic soil though.
 
How many times would you recommend applying a slow release pellet fertilizer like osmocote?

Osmocote is listed as lasting for four months, so I would only apply it once a year. It also is a balanced fertilizer (14-14-14) so you generally should only use it in the earlier part of the year. General practice is the late summer and fall fertilizer routines should nearly exclude nitrogen and use only phosphorous and potassium so the tree is well prepared for the dormancy season.

If you live in a tropical region or have a really long growing season you might be able to use Osmocote twice in a year with about three months between applications.
 
Osmocote is listed as lasting for four months, so I would only apply it once a year. It also is a balanced fertilizer (14-14-14) so you generally should only use it in the earlier part of the year. General practice is the late summer and fall fertilizer routines should nearly exclude nitrogen and use only phosphorous and potassium so the tree is well prepared for the dormancy season.

If you live in a tropical region or have a really long growing season you might be able to use Osmocote twice in a year with about three months between applications.
Oh ok I see.. Im In north carolina. When should I apply it? Once everything starts pushing growth?
 
Yeah I know trust me it takes a while to tell a dead one from the bunch. But I swear to you, everything else was perfectly fine. I only put the fert on those four specific plants and they all four turned on me like that within a few days. Every other tree was perfecfly fine. They almost looked as though they had wayyy to much nitrogen. The junipers turned gold. Hell to be honest, they could've still been alive but I threw em all out anyways because of my inexperience. All but the trident, were planted in organic potting soil. If it wasnt the fert then what in the HELL was it?? Lol


Are you sure what you used was Osmocote? I would take the stuff out of the container and check it out. I have never heard of a fertilizer burning anything this fast. I'm sure the department of agriculture would like to know if there is a bad batch of the product floating around.
 
Are you sure what you used was Osmocote? I would take the stuff out of the container and check it out. I have never heard of a fertilizer burning anything this fast. I'm sure the department of agriculture would like to know if there is a bad batch of the product floating around.
No this was last year. It was an all purpose fert from wal mart 10-10-10 It wasnt slow release though I dont guess... i just sprinkled a little bit of it on the soil surface of those trees and within a couple days it all went downhill. I have no idea why! Osmocote is just what I plan to use this year. I was wondering how much I should use with each tree and just wondering how people personally use it. Since that happened last year it has me worried to fertilize anything But I know I have to!
 
On the same subject, I was in the camp of don't use too much inorganics but now I am questioning that. I thought why do I think that? Is it because its what I have always heard, though never experienced. So I am performing a test of sorts. I have 9 shimpaku 3 year old cuttings. 1 is in the ground, 7 are fertilized with moderate amounts of osmocote. The last is the special one. I put about 2/3 a cup of Osmocote on it. It is in a 3 gallon pot. I wanted to see if what I thought was correct and how far you would have to go using Osmocote to actually over-fertilize. So we shall see what the future holds. Stupid, maybe. But I will learn what that ultimate threshold of too much is. The potted plants are all in Napa Oil Dry (not a huge fan) and I also just started using Great White, Mycorrhizae supplement on all my trees.
 
[QUOTE="drew33998, post: 248790, member: 12114"On the same subject, I was in the camp of don't use too much inorganics but now I am questioning that. I thought why do I think that? Is it because its what I have always heard, though never experienced. So I am performing a test of sorts. I have 9 shimpaku 3 year old cuttings. 1 is in the ground, 7 are fertilized with moderate amounts of osmocote. The last is the special one. I put about 2/3 a cup of Osmocote on it. It is in a 3 gallon pot. I wanted to see if what I thought was correct and how far you would have to go using Osmocote to actually over-fertilize. So we shall see what the future holds. Stupid, maybe. But I will learn what that ultimate threshold of too much is. The potted plants are all in Napa Oil Dry (not a huge fan) and I also just started using Great White, Mycorrhizae supplement on all my trees.[/QUOTE]
I hope you get some nice results! I dont think Its stupid, I think its a good way to learn! You'll never know until you try. Im gonna sprinkle the soil surface of my trees with it and then on some of my younger more inexpensive trees I will probably use about 30% more. I don't want to under fertilize though either so fertilizing this year for me will be an experience and a test all in itself!
 
Osmocote is listed as lasting for four months, so I would only apply it once a year. It also is a balanced fertilizer (14-14-14) so you generally should only use it in the earlier part of the year. General practice is the late summer and fall fertilizer routines should nearly exclude nitrogen and use only phosphorous and potassium so the tree is well prepared for the dormancy season.

If you live in a tropical region or have a really long growing season you might be able to use Osmocote twice in a year with about three months between applications.
Pump the miracle grow until the leaves turn brown in the fall. Why cut back on nitrogen when the tree is still green? And then no fertilizer after that. Why give a plant food that isn't going to use it?
 
So this will be my second year fertilizing. Last year I bought 10-10-10 granular fertilizer and followed the directions, which said to put half a cap full for every 1-2'' of trunk width, for container grown plants. Well it burned the 4 trees I used it on, slap up!! Now I'm scared to fertilize... I bought this osmocote today with an even balance of npk 14-14-14. The directions for shrubs and trees say to use one cap full for every 2 feet of branch spread. Im assuming thats for trees planted in the ground and I definitely dont have that much of a foliage spread on any of my bonsai trees. So my question is, how do I use this stuff?? What the best way to measure it out for bonsai use? I dont want to over fert. How do you guys specifically use osmocote?? Thank you so much in advance. Im really struggling with the fertilizing part of bonsai practice.

So 3yrs later- are you still using Osmocote? If not, why? Hoping you get updates via email because you're 2-months inactive but figure there's a good chance the average user gets email updates ;)

(just switched from an all-liquid fertilization regimen to osmocote, w/ the intent to have it be the majority of my fertilization (and just use instant miracle-gro as a 'boost' selectively)


I just cover the surface of the soil in the pot (maybe 60%) with it, then I fertilize it every other week with liquid Miracle-Grow too. What makes you think your ferts "burned" your trees ? Were they Maples that got burned from the sun maybe? I have never seen fertilizer burn anything, from Crepe Myrtles to Bougies, as well as Junipers and Ficus down to my Chinese Elms and even my Yaupon holly or my Malus (Apples) I literally fertilize the living shit out of them without a hitch.

ed

Which osmocote (%'s) were you using? I just got their 15-9-12 'osmocote plus' and applied to my entire garden, I applied on the light side figuring I can apply more later but can't remove excess....but then I read you saying you cover the surface @~60%? It doesn't read like hyperbole but wouldn't that be like 5x the label rate? Forgive my ignorance on this, I've relied on liquid miracle gro (24-8-16) for ages and wanted to switch to something where most of the fert comes 'extended release' and then I can just do an every ~5-10day liquid application, am really trying to push growth, am in FL and growing mostly bougies and crapes like you mentioned...would love to know if you still use the stuff and any thoughts you've got on it, my first application was my best attempt at ~70% of full-strength rate (just guessing 'gallons' of substrate by eye..), feel like I may've seriously under-done it - am at least going to do another single application (of roughly the same strength, so a ~140% recommended-rate) on a tester-plant, probably my large crape which is growing very fast & strong right now :)

On the same subject, I was in the camp of don't use too much inorganics but now I am questioning that. I thought why do I think that? Is it because its what I have always heard, though never experienced. So I am performing a test of sorts. I have 9 shimpaku 3 year old cuttings. 1 is in the ground, 7 are fertilized with moderate amounts of osmocote. The last is the special one. I put about 2/3 a cup of Osmocote on it. It is in a 3 gallon pot. I wanted to see if what I thought was correct and how far you would have to go using Osmocote to actually over-fertilize. So we shall see what the future holds. Stupid, maybe. But I will learn what that ultimate threshold of too much is. The potted plants are all in Napa Oil Dry (not a huge fan) and I also just started using Great White, Mycorrhizae supplement on all my trees.

Would love to hear how your trials w/ osmocote played-out, am basically in your same growing-area and wanting to switch to osmocote as my primary fertilizer, would love to know what became of the shimpaku in a 3gal that got 2/3cup! (and would love to hear if you ever found Great White to be useful? Am unsure how long myco's hyphae networks take to be 'established' and recall it being rather long, so anything that can 'seed' that effectively is great for container gardening especially mostly-inorganic bonsai substrate containers!)

I was using Miracle Grow 20-20-20 at 7 to 10 times recommended dose for a couple of years. I switched to Grow More 20-20-20 for a few years at high dosage as well. I do not remember when I finally went to Jacks Professional 20-20-20 with Micro Nutrients but I think I am entering the 2nd season now(it does not foam up when mixing). With that one I have been using 5 to 7 times the amount stated. I find I see no ill effects... Perhaps it is mostly inorganic substrate BUT not everything is in total inorganics. Based on several years of playing I do not see it possible to over fertilize if the substrate is free draining and porous enough to retain some. My Wife uses Osmocote on most all of her Tropicals and I never see her measure - she tosses in on liberal about 3 times in the Summer and once Mid Winter.
Bottom line it I find it hard to believe the fertilizer itself caused ill effects...

Grimmy

Love hearing that you used that much MG w/o ill-effects, makes me think my idea of 'super-feeding' (which is my goal right now, all my trees are in early development still) is wayyy lower than what it should be...And while it's true it's not fully inorganic, the total CEC of mixes is so darn low that, so long as there's a reasonable minimum-particle-size for the substrate, what you (and walter pall) say is the case - am just so damn hesitant to put down what I'm starting to think is a 'high dose' of osmocote ('high' in general), am hoping to strike a balance of like 60-75% of my fert from the osmocote and the remainder from weekly miracle-gro 24-8-16 instant feedings but am starting to think maybe I should aim lower / rely less on it because it'd be too easy to over-/under-shoot the amount as well as the stuff not being as consistent a release-rate as one would like... Seeing @parhamr 's pics (first post of this page), especially that 2nd one, makes me think I wayyyy under-did it, I must've done <10% of that (though he's doing that application 1x/year...but also is in OR whereas I'm in FL...am curious to see if I'll be able to visually see the osmocote pieces get smaller over time, not knowing if the pellets are 85% spent at 6 weeks is a big deal if relying on them as a primary fertilizer!)

And for the OP's case, couldn't the fert have been the culprit if there were dry-pockets or damaged roots? It sounds like he put down an instant-release 10-10-10 product measuring by the cup to put right on the soil, if the roots were dry or not in good shape I'd have to imagine it's possible, I mean my instant-release stuff hurts cuts on my fingers, if you just laid that down on hurt roots (I know his was half that strength but still) it seems reasonable enough it could've been the 'death blow' to already-distressed trees..
 
Basically you can't kill a juniper with osmocoat. Fungi have a hard time living in soil exposed to the atmosphere. Trees require a fungal dominant soil to thrive and when you use chemical feets the first thing to reestablish is bacteria. I think there will be a lot of development on that in the future. Also when you use chemical fertilizers you kill all the life in the soil. There is a doctor Ingham that has done a ton of research on the soil food web. She states in one of her videos that in an old growth forest, the trees are holding 90 percent of the nutrients they are up taking so where does the nutrients come from? No one fertilizes those trees and yet though grow every year. She also states that most of the organic matter in soil is from dead organisms and not plant matter. Please look her up on YouTube
 
Basically you can't kill a juniper with osmocoat. Fungi have a hard time living in soil exposed to the atmosphere. Trees require a fungal dominant soil to thrive and when you use chemical feets the first thing to reestablish is bacteria. I think there will be a lot of development on that in the future. Also when you use chemical fertilizers you kill all the life in the soil. There is a doctor Ingham that has done a ton of research on the soil food web. She states in one of her videos that in an old growth forest, the trees are holding 90 percent of the nutrients they are up taking so where does the nutrients come from? No one fertilizes those trees and yet though grow every year. She also states that most of the organic matter in soil is from dead organisms and not plant matter. Please look her up on YouTube
You wore: "Also when you use chemical fertilizers you kill all the life in the soil." Where is the evidence of that? Bold statements demand bold truths.
 
You wore: "Also when you use chemical fertilizers you kill all the life in the soil." Where is the evidence of that? Bold statements demand bold truths.

Was going to write something similar to this myself, @drew33998 I'd really like to dispute this notion based on my own experience of having such a good myco network in a box last year that it was growing mushrooms (literally was pulling a couple mushrooms a day lol) and it was in pure DE (I was(am) new...) getting only liquid miracle-gro 24-8-16
 
Basically you can't kill a juniper with osmocoat. Fungi have a hard time living in soil exposed to the atmosphere. Trees require a fungal dominant soil to thrive and when you use chemical feets the first thing to reestablish is bacteria. I think there will be a lot of development on that in the future. Also when you use chemical fertilizers you kill all the life in the soil. There is a doctor Ingham that has done a ton of research on the soil food web. She states in one of her videos that in an old growth forest, the trees are holding 90 percent of the nutrients they are up taking so where does the nutrients come from? No one fertilizes those trees and yet though grow every year. She also states that most of the organic matter in soil is from dead organisms and not plant matter. Please look her up on YouTube

That's great to hear re osmocote, am going to apply another round - you use Juniper as an example, I only have 2 junipers the rest of my garden is tropicals (mostly bougies/crapes/etc), would imagine they'd want a good deal more than junipers?

And aside from what I'd inquired in the prior post re the concept of synthetic ferts being bad for fungi, can you tell me what you meant by "and when you use chemical feets the first thing to reestablish is bacteria"? Am unsure if you mean the bacteria take up space and become over-competitive against the fungi (and is it implicit that the bacteria is bad? I know nothing of bacterial//root symbiosis but expect there's many bacteria that are symbiotic in a similar manner to how fungi is)
 
You wore: "Also when you use chemical fertilizers you kill all the life in the soil." Where is the evidence of that? Bold statements demand bold truths.
Dr Ingham leading researcher for the soil food web, about your age, and has been doing it since the 70s. Look her up on YouTube and watch some videos you might learn something.
 
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