Hemlock Apex

[River's Edge]

If it's anything like it's western cousins you WONT get any back budding period. With Western and mountain that I've played with (for branch selection) its better to sacrifice bigger branches (jin'n them) as all the growth is out at the ends....for the smaller branches which have growth closer to the trunk. This provides better balance IF you are looking for the ancient weathered look.
If you decide to use one of the bigger branches as your new leader you can use wire as described in the post above but also add a small saw cut at the top of the junction of branch and main stem, as you move the new leader into place (more parallel to the main track) it will fall into place more easily.....trick is ....not the bend it upwards to hard initially as you may tear the lower portion of the junction.......easy to follow hey.....

The other important consideration is that hemlock branches typical droop more downward before turning up at the end a bit. Most of your branching is thicker and closer to the bottom making that difficult. Even more difficult if you cut back further on the trunk.

 

[Aeast]

Here's a quick update, just about a year to date. Been working on getting the two branches on the left out of the same plane, as well as condensing the pads.

 

[Aeast]

 

[Potawatomi13]

FWIW check the Hemlocks at Cretageus Bonsai(Michael Hagedorns website)for excellent examples.

 

[WNC Bonsai]

I think you’ve done a great job with the material you had to work with. The use of guy wires has allowed you to pull the brsnches out of the flat plane they were occupying and it isn’t looking so 2 dimensional now. I have several hemlocks and they are growing like weeds right now and I am planning on wiring them this fall.

 

[Hartinez]

You've got nice material here and the tree appears to be quite healthy. So good on you for even just doing that!certainly understand the feeling of not being able to see the bonsai within the tree. I still struggle with that. But I think in its current rendition, its not sure what type of tree it wants to be. Its planted straight up and down but has too much movement to be a formal upright. The branches left and right are of equal size so its not quite an informal upright either. In regards to the apex, you definitely have the foliage to wire a nice rounded and mature looking top. Guy wires can be great but in this case it does little to refine the overall design. I think what you'll find and something i have found, is that in order to achieve some semblance of a refined tree, especially on conifers, you really need to go through and detail wire as much woody material as possible and lay each branch and twig exactly where you want it. And from the picture it appears that every branch has hardened off, woody, twigging and branching. It'll take you some time, but you've got to spend some time doing this, or it'll always be a bit unruly. I think also, the tree could benefit from a rotation in the planting angle and a heavy wiring of the trunk line all the way to the apex. doing so would place prominence on your first branch, which ever you choose to use as such, and accentuate the little bit of movement present in the current trees state. I put a quick vert together, to maybe give you inspiration to be a bit more aggressive with your styling and branch arrangement. Its a bit rough but gets the point across and you definitely have the branching to pull something like this off. I even think you could be more aggressive with the bending of the branches and apex. You've got good healthy material here and the only way to get this baby moving forward is to really take some time and attention to detail of even the smallest branch. good luck and keep us posted!

 

[Rid]

Clear as mud! No I understand what your saying. Thanks for the advice everyone, I appreciate it. I'll give it a go

What is your tree growing in?

 

[River's Edge]

View attachment 246577

Hemlocks need branching above the levels you have kept in order to style as a conifer and benefit from the natural tendencies of their foliage. This tree should go back in the ground and grow for five or ten years, gradually developing the new branches higher up and removing the thicker lower branches existing. The foliage and the branches are generally trained in a downward sweeping position.

 

[Hartinez]

Hemlocks need branching above the levels you have kept in order to style as a conifer and benefit from the natural tendencies of their foliage. This tree should go back in the ground and grow for five or ten years, gradually developing the new branches higher up and removing the thicker lower branches existing. The foliage and the branches are generally trained in a downward sweeping position.

I agree with rivers edge here. Th tree in its current form does not look reminiscent of a hemlock in nature, and the current leader and apex are not thick enough to be convincing. A styling now could work, it just wouldn’t be in a natural hemlock style.

 

[River's Edge]

I agree with rivers edge here. Th tree in its current form does not look reminiscent of a hemlock in nature, and the current leader and apex are not thick enough to be convincing. A styling now could work, it just wouldn’t be in a natural hemlock style.

I disagree with the above. I cannot see how a styling would work, that was the point of both times i have commented in this thread. However, here is an illustration of a western Hemlock that looked similar to the OP.
I put it in the ground in 2012 and dug it up this spring, put it in an anderson flat. The trunk is now 3 inches at the base and the overall height 5 feet. It is easily reduced to 28 to 30 inches. I took the time to cut back and encourage finer branching in the new growth each year that it was in the ground. Plenty of options for styling once it has recovered from recent transplanting.

 

[Hartinez]

I disagree with the above. I cannot see how a styling would work, that was the point of both times i have commented in this thread. However, here is an illustration of a western Hemlock that looked similar to the OP.
I put it in the ground in 2012 and dug it up this spring, put it in an anderson flat. The trunk is now 3 inches at the base and the overall height 5 feet. It is easily reduced to 28 to 30 inches. I took the time to cut back and encourage finer branching in the new growth each year that it was in the ground. Plenty of options for styling once it has recovered from recent transplanting.View attachment 248293View attachment 248294View attachment 248295

I think this is a great example of what the original posted tree is capable of, if the OP chooses to plant the tree in the ground for 5-10 years, which I think is the right move. In its current form, it certainly could be styled, just not yielding the results of waiting the time you suggested. Due to the fact that he's already begun removing foliage and guy wiring branches down and as he said, "trying to establish pads", its safe to assume planting and growing his tree is not his plan.

 

[Aeast]

What is your tree growing in?

Akadama, lava, pumice.

 

[Aeast]

I agree with rivers edge here. Th tree in its current form does not look reminiscent of a hemlock in nature, and the current leader and apex are not thick enough to be convincing. A styling now could work, it just wouldn’t be in a natural hemlock style.

Thanks for the reply, I understand that this tree doesn't look like a old hemlock in nature, it would almost be impossible to do so. Natural old hemlocks (Canadian/Eastern) have very elegant branching and wispy feel to them, which in my experience is extremely difficult to do with out letting the foliage get away from you. And with maintaining growth they will start to naturally build dense pads.

 

[Aeast]

I disagree with the above. I cannot see how a styling would work, that was the point of both times i have commented in this thread. However, here is an illustration of a western Hemlock that looked similar to the OP.
I put it in the ground in 2012 and dug it up this spring, put it in an anderson flat. The trunk is now 3 inches at the base and the overall height 5 feet. It is easily reduced to 28 to 30 inches. I took the time to cut back and encourage finer branching in the new growth each year that it was in the ground. Plenty of options for styling once it has recovered from recent transplanting.View attachment 248293View attachment 248294View attachment 248295

Very nice tree you have there and thanks for the advice. Although this sounds like a good option I don't plan on re planting this tree as I have spent years reducing the roots to what I have now.

If I do as you suggest and remove all the lower branching I believe every bit of character would be lost. Maybe it just to much sentimental value to me and I'm a little blinded.

 

[River's Edge]

Very nice tree you have there and thanks for the advice. Although this sounds like a good option I don't plan on re planting this tree as I have spent years reducing the roots to what I have now.

If I do as you suggest and remove all the lower branching I believe every bit of character would be lost. Maybe it just to much sentimental value to me and I'm a little blinded.

That was exactly how i felt about the one i eventually put in the ground. I argued with myself for three or four years before i decided to put it in the ground. Having the reduced rootball was a huge advantage because it helped to produce excessive growth and made it easier to take it up years later. A much bigger trunk with flare adds considerable character to the lower portion particularily when taper begins within the first 10 or 12 inches off the ground.
I agree with your thoughts, been there done that myself. I work a lot with hemlocks, collection and development they are fun trees and excellent for Bonsai. Here is another i am developing with a three inch base but much smaller in height.

 

[Aeast]

Another nice hemlock. Good work! What medium did you plant yours in while in the "ground"?

 

[River's Edge]

Another nice hemlock. Good work! What medium did you plant yours in while in the "ground"?

I put it in the front flower bed facing east. They like some shade and my site is very sunny and hot! Great for the pines. The soil is very sandy and gravelly, well draining. The root ball and surrounding area was comprised of my usual Bonsai mix. Akadama, Lava, Pumice and Granite Grit. Fertilizer was my organic mix as per the following combination.
Neem Meal, Bone Meal, Blood Meal and Alaska Brand fish fertilizer!
Each year i reduced the growth on the top and left the base of the tree alone except to ensure that light could keep the foliage healthy near the trunk. So basically thinned out branches to keep light to the interior.

 

[Aeast]

Just an update on this tree, it got a hard prune this spring and a large rear facing branch was removed. The second set is it's progress over the growing season. I like this current front a lot better as it narrows the silhouette and gives it a little more direction. I need to do some detail wiring and pad refinement next year. Any thoughts?

 

[Colorado]

Nice improvement. I agree with @Hartinez that it needs more wire. Even if you’re going to continue development, you can still wire it out and then “put it out to pasture.”

Looks like this species back buds like crazy!

 

[Aeast]

I definitely agree and that's the plan, these trees just grow so fast its hard to keep wire on them. You blink and its cutting in.