House of Bonsai - Flowering Apricot

That looks like a good deal! Even considering the shipping.

Ume are trained differently than most other trees. They’re one of the rare deciduous trees that typically are developed with deadwood! (I know you’ll like that!)

Of course, the deadwood is only appropriate if the tree has old bark. Your tree has the beginnings of mature bark, but it’s not there yet.

Ume are grown for their flowers. The cool thing is they bloom really early in late winter to early spring. They’re usually the first thing to show signs of life in the spring. And then, the flowers are delicate and fragrant. Wonderful! They’re a stark contrast to the winter season.

And, when these precious flowers come from a gnarly old trunk, the contrast of the apparent age and hardship endured by the trunk and the youth and vitality as expressed by the flowers makes for an exquisite display!

So...

What I am telling you is to think long term with this tree. You’re eventually going to want to carve the trunk. Which means you need to grow wood to carve!

If this were my tree, I would seriously consider growing it in the ground for a few years to beef up that trunk. You have some good movement, but the branches have long straight stretches that will have to be removed.

Meanwhile, get another cheap one. To practice on. Make sure it blooms before you buy it. There is a yearly cycle you go thru to get both ramification and get flower production. And it’s its own thing. There’s an article in an old International Bonsai magazine (from around 1980) that details the process.

Good luck with it!

Here is a recent picture of an Ume I used to own:

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Here’s what it looked like when I showed it two years ago:

View attachment 177196

As you can see, there’s a lot more ramification now!
Thank you Mr. Adair for taking the time to post. I actually have most of my trees in pot as I don't have much area that is suitable to plan tree. The front yard is mostly shaded and the HOA here is so good at sending you letter for every little thing. I will keep it in the pot for very long time. For now the plan is to just cut back the coarse growths so the smaller twigs will not die and enjoy the flower. Hope I can keep it alive for the next few years, until the kids are old enough so I can have more time to do my hobby.
 
Nice trunky but I don't see any twigs close to the trunk to cut back to. You will definitely have to graft those back?
Actually, Ume will backbud readily. That’s why you often see these big, fat trunks offered for sale with tiny little branches growing straight up. All the branches were cut off. Then, the tree was allowed to grow for a year. Then cut back hard, and sold.
 
@namnhi - nice Ume, really nice.

Clear the math up for me. I read and see that you paid $310 for a tree advertised for $79. Am I seeing this correctly? Or did I just miss the point somewhere.

My Mai tree is nearing bloom...yellow flowers, southern....should be right on the mark for Tet. Are your flower buds near blooming?

I’m always skeptical of a description that says...Actual tree may look different....
Did you receive your tree yet? It’s a good one?

I chuckled when you mentioned yellow flowers, I knew you were talking about Mai Vang, the Ochna sp. That seller of Mai Vang, near Sarasota is interesting, visited there a year ago. Any tree they ship is marked way up. But show up in person, take it home yourself, and suddenly the prices are very reasonable. You might have to bargain back and forth a little, but I really enjoyed my visit. And because I don't speak Vietnamese, they had someone there who did speak English. If anyone is ever near Sarasota, check out Mai Vang Nursery. They have many tropical fruit trees too, like bush cherries, Spondia, Diospyros digyna the chocolate pudding fruit and others. Their Malpighia were well developed pre-bonsai in low azalea pots, with trunks over an inch diameter, for only $35.
 
I bought mine from the same seller awhile back. I’m still unsure on how to design the trunk line.

You were robbed! Trunk is crap. Only help for is pick best angle to hide reverse, cut away or get rid of. Maybe could layer and use lump as base:confused:?
 
And the translation is not good, all the bougainvilleas are shown as “Flower” lol
 
Actually, Ume will backbud readily. That’s why you often see these big, fat trunks offered for sale with tiny little branches growing straight up. All the branches were cut off. Then, the tree was allowed to grow for a year. Then cut back hard, and sold.

this is true, my rather large ume was cut all back to just a few trunks and it grew all new branches
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It's only when you have very old branches that back budding becomes an issue
 
That is so cool. Thanks for posting. Looks like they take root prune very well.
Actually, they don’t! They left a lot of roots growing straight down. And while they tied the tree to the pot, it would be better to secure the rootball in with wire. And the soil appears to be mounded in the pot.

They did do a good job Bare rooting it. And, they could have cut back the branches more.

And the soil mix they’re wasn’t seived. They did appear to put large particles on the bottom, but their main soil has larger, medium and small particles. That will pack. Using same size particles allows better air flow.
 
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Have you thought of air layering either of those forks ? Do they airlayer easily?

I would personally never airlayer a ume as they don't airlayer very well, if at all. I won't be reducing the forks either, People are to quick to smash things down and not look at the whole tree and how to make this a ume(or whatever species) the best and unique tree that make that tree it's species. If that makes sense. I will be carving a lot to tie things together and keep those points of interest
 
And the soil mix they’re wasn’t seived. They did appear to put large particles on the bottom, but their main soil has larger, medium and small particles. That will pack. Using same size particles allows better air flow.

Hi Adair. I'm still learning the art of bonsai so please excuse what might be a dumbass question! Is seiving really necessary if using open, free draining substrate? I use akadama, lava and pumice and just mix it all up, it's all pretty open. Should I be seiving this? Again, why larger particles at the bottom if it's a free draining mix anyway?

Thanks,

Andy
 
Hi Adair. I'm still learning the art of bonsai so please excuse what might be a dumbass question! Is seiving really necessary if using open, free draining substrate? I use akadama, lava and pumice and just mix it all up, it's all pretty open. Should I be seiving this? Again, why larger particles at the bottom if it's a free draining mix anyway?

Thanks,

Andy
MarkyScott posted several posts and put them in the reference section about soils. And perched water tables. He’s a geologist. I’m clueless about all that stuff!

Except, he does the same thing as I do re potting!

On large pots, we do put down a “drainage layer” of larger substrate, usually pumice. It has something to do about raising the perched water table, but whatever...

Seiving the main substrate is important! You want to have all same size particles, and they should be more rounded in shape rather than sharp and angular. Consider: a glass of marbles all the same size still contains a lot of air. A mixture of marbles and BB’s would have less air. And the shape? Have you ever walked on a path that’s made of pea gravel? Each step the gravel moves under foot. Doesn’t compress. A crushed granite gravel walkway, on the other hand, is much more firm underfoot. Over time it will compress and become more dense. Like a gravel road. The Pea gravel will stay loose.

So, yes, seive your substrate into sizes. Use the largest as “drainage layer” for large pots, middle sized for conifers and large deciduous, and small for Shohin and refined deciduous. The fines, the stuff that goes thru window screen, either toss, or use it for making “muck” for rock plantings.
 
Well I Finally pulled the trigger , I’ll just blame it on you guys ?? I’ve looked at many over the past couple of years and finally found one , it’s a porker
 
Well I Finally pulled the trigger , I’ll just blame it on you guys ?? I’ve looked at many over the past couple of years and finally found one , it’s a porker

Nice! Just have a good preventative plan as there sweet sap is a magnet for nasties
 
@Giga do you have any of the terrier bits? I’m about to pull on a couple of these too , was curious about the tungsteen ones ?

I’ll be practicing on some stumps before I tackle this one in early summer maybe . Mostly just been doing hand carvings time I upgrade for some of these bigger stumps ! ?
 
@Giga do you have any of the terrier bits? I’m about to pull on a couple of these too , was curious about the tungsteen ones ?

I’ll be practicing on some stumps before I tackle this one in early summer maybe . Mostly just been doing hand carvings time I upgrade for some of these bigger stumps ! ?

I have the ones for a dremel, does wonders
 
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