Mikecheck123
Omono
Any styling suggestions? I didn't get around to wiring the primary branches before they got too thick. So now I've just cut them back hard so that I can give some movement.
How tall should I keep this collected Chinese elm?
- Thread starter Mikecheck123
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Woocash
Omono
The way I see it is you have two choices, start a broom or pick a leader. If starting a broom then chop flat and go from there (Markyscott has a good thread on this) or alternatively, I don’t know what vision you have for it, but it’s not ready for branches yet, in my opinion. Remove two of the chunky stumps and grow out from the other to create a better trunk line. Personally, I’d chop at 45 degrees from the lowest protrusion and go from there. We can’t see how far the root flare is below the soil line, but if you’re not careful you’ll have a long, taper less trunk and you’ll be wishing you’d chopped lower .
BobbyLane
Imperial Masterpiece
if he starts a broom he doesnt need to chop flat he could just start with the two stubs at the top and remove the others.
could he not try this?
in which case he could start building a branch structure from whats on the trunk. or yeh the other option is to do what most would do and leave one stub on top and go more movement n taper. 3 options.
could he not try this?
in which case he could start building a branch structure from whats on the trunk. or yeh the other option is to do what most would do and leave one stub on top and go more movement n taper. 3 options.
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BobbyLane
Imperial Masterpiece
not an option?
Woocash
Omono
Yes, I should have said formal broom. I think the example you’ve shown is a perfectly viable option, but based on the fact we can’t see the nebari and the trunk is already longer than this one, I still think it would be better coming down more now, unless it was ground layered later.
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
First thing I would do is reduce the cut scar to live bark, trim and reseal all around. In the current state, the scar will never heal. Make sure the new cut is concave, and not a flat V, with a margin of live bark all the way around.
If you plan on keeping those branch nubs, I would also recut them with a concave cutter and seal them. They look right now like they were cut with a saw - that torn edge should look instead like it was cut with a razor. Make all your concave cuts face upwards so that you can hopefully get buds that will grow outwards, as well as towards the front and rear - instead of straight up and straight down. From this point forward wire all your new growth the second it hardens from soft green to wood. Do not let the growth run 6" without wiring it. Even a 2" segment that isn't wired becomes trash and will have no future in the design of your tree.
And the big elephant in the room... what does the nebari look like? Make sure you understand your roots before you design the top of your tree. Never design the top of your tree first, and then work your way down the trunk. Always start at the bottom and work up. In a perfect world, you would have made that v cut based on what your roots look like - because the v is going to define the front of your tree. It's all good though because elms are so indestructible and you can easily fix root problems; but keep it in mind when you work on other material that is perhaps less forgiving.
If you plan on keeping those branch nubs, I would also recut them with a concave cutter and seal them. They look right now like they were cut with a saw - that torn edge should look instead like it was cut with a razor. Make all your concave cuts face upwards so that you can hopefully get buds that will grow outwards, as well as towards the front and rear - instead of straight up and straight down. From this point forward wire all your new growth the second it hardens from soft green to wood. Do not let the growth run 6" without wiring it. Even a 2" segment that isn't wired becomes trash and will have no future in the design of your tree.
And the big elephant in the room... what does the nebari look like? Make sure you understand your roots before you design the top of your tree. Never design the top of your tree first, and then work your way down the trunk. Always start at the bottom and work up. In a perfect world, you would have made that v cut based on what your roots look like - because the v is going to define the front of your tree. It's all good though because elms are so indestructible and you can easily fix root problems; but keep it in mind when you work on other material that is perhaps less forgiving.
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