I'm finally ready for winter!

Actually you're misunderstanding my set up. I only have insulation on the ceiling and that's to keep the temps stable, not warmer. Since putting the vents in temps have been between 36f and 41f all day long with an average humidity of 30-50% and that's with outside temps being between 18f and 53f. Correct me if I'm wrong but don't tree's go into dormancy and stay there as long as temps are below 50f? This is what I've read and this is also what I've been told by many. Thank you for your insight and help.

Read through here CAREFULLY--
https://www.evergreengardenworks.com/dormancy.htm

Here is THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE ARTICLE
"In order for these species to break dormancy and begin growing again they must acquire the requisite number of hours of cold temperatures. For most of these species it is 1000 hours of temperatures below 40F. Once this requirement has been satisfied the plant may begin growing again immediately. The new growth is triggered by temperature alone. If temperatures rise much above 40F for any extended period of time, say a week or so, the buds will break and the plant will begin growing. This can happen outside in January if there is a freak warm spell, or it can be artificially manipulated if plants are brought indoors. A return to cold weather will of course kill the new growth and buds."

Fifty degrees WILL NEITHER INDUCE NOR SUSTAIN dormancy. Fifty degree soil is common in summer in the root zones of actively growing trees. Forty five will do it for some.
 
As winter temps began to moderate , I used to keep the doors open at night and closed during the day to trap as much cold air as possible inside my garage.
Exactly what I wind up doing. Though I'm usually quite tired of winter by about the middle of February, the best thing for the trees is for it to stay pretty cold until at least early March up here. There's not much fun in having to move a bunch of budded/leafed out trees in and out every day for several weeks. And even on a pretty cold mid-late Feb day, it can heat up surprisingly quickly inside my barn and garage (where trees are stored) if the sun is out.
 
snow.jpg FWIW, Zone 7, 12 degrees, last January (I think). In this picture bald cypress, cedar elm, boxwood, wisteria, azalea...No you can't see the boxwood and azalea. They're covered completely. This kind of snow cover is unusual for my area, though. We usually just get cold and wind in Jan. and Feb. with the occasional snow. Snow cover is terrific, but I don't rely on it. All the root masses of the trees are under eight to ten inches of shredded hardwood mulch.
 
Exactly what I wind up doing. Though I'm usually quite tired of winter by about the middle of February, the best thing for the trees is for it to stay pretty cold until at least early March up here. There's not much fun in having to move a bunch of budded/leafed out trees in and out every day for several weeks. And even on a pretty cold mid-late Feb day, it can heat up surprisingly quickly inside my barn and garage (where trees are stored) if the sun is out.
When I kept my trees sheltered like this, I used a min max thermometer and would check it every single day. Once it was obvious temps were moderating inside the garage, keeping it as cold as possible became the goal, and as March progressed, I'd watch the buds on my maples for swelling. The instant I saw any movement at all, the tree would get moved out into the garden and mulched heavily...the mulch would keep the root-ball from re-freezing and the colder outside temps would significantly slow down the budding out.
 
The instant I saw any movement at all, the tree would get moved out into the garden and mulched heavily...the mulch would keep the root-ball from re-freezing and the colder outside temps would significantly slow down the budding out.
That would work great, except around here it would be the equivalent of hanging a "dinner is served" sign for the local varmint population. Might get lucky, might not. I've learned from past experience on this one.

Most normalish winters I'm able to keep things under control. Even when the barn and garage start to warm up, the trees are in the dark and that helps. The only time I had a significant problem was that really warm winter we had 4 or 5 years ago, when it was in the 60s in February and the 70s/80s in March. Followed of course by 2 killing freezes in late April and early May.
 
I decided to move my evergreens back outside until temps steadily go into the teen's. The rest of my tree's will stay in the winter vault (except for my tropical's which of course are in the greenhouse:) I figure with temps being in the mid 30's F 19 hours of the day they'll be fine in there and enjoy their nap. I never did move the Ponderosa though because our native Ponderosa's spend most of the winter in the negatives.

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Just remember it's just a bit differently when in a pot than in ground. I know nothing of pine though.
They'll be much happier exposed, then protected here. The only pines I give any mind to in winter are the JBP, which get stuck in the tree house the nights we go below 15°f. His JBP should be fine, considering it's sheer size. That thing is probably equivalent to a 7gl pot!

Aaron
 
I'd defoliate your maples and any other deciduous trees outside before winterizing them....keeps the inside clean and less likely to have pest and fungal issues over the winter.

Funny, that's one of the things that was on my plate today and the blow gun simplified it just a little bit:)

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I'd defoliate your maples and any other deciduous trees outside before winterizing them....keeps the inside clean and less likely to have pest and fungal issues over the winter.
Very thoughtful to share that with him. Good point all around. But, I reckon he had "intentions" all along. But...thanks for sharing. Others may not think of such things.
 
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