True, but I see things way different than other people do. Not because I am better than others, I have just reached a point in my career as a bonsai practitioner that
wasting my time on bad material is not worth it to me. When I see someone say that 59.00 is a price they are willing to pay to learn on or allow to die because they were not competent enough to do the correct work is a crutch to say, "gee I want this material at any price and since its cheap if it dies who cares."?
I care. I don't buy material to chop down. Sure, I have experimented and had some successes along the way but for the most part I am
not a dead head kind of chopper. I treat the purchase of every piece of material I buy as a long term tree with definate possibilities of being a show worthy tree in my life time. It does not matter if its $10.00 or $1000.00.
Every purchase has to meet my ruthless set of principles or I don't buy it. Let me show you two trees. Lets say that each costs $50.00. Trident maples, one is rather small and one is very thick. Both cost the same, but on a cursery review which stump offers the most for a best tree?
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For some it may be the tree on the left with its very beautiful and
well developed hogarth curve trunk. For others it might be the sheer size of the trunk in comparison to the other for the same price. Both trees have some movement which is paramount. They both exit the soil at a slant which is extremely necessary for a good bonsai.
A tree bolting straight from the ground is never very good except for broom style trees or formal upright form trees. Keeping in mind that these are my opinions and others will see if different, the tree on the left will probably always be a shohin sized tree. The hogarth curve is well established in the trunk already and it has
good taper and excellent visual speed*.
*
Visual Speed = the ability of a bonsai to be made in such a way that the trunk tapers to the top evenly, the space of the branches diminsh from bottom to top evenly and the internodes of the leaves do the same from branch at trunk to tip. In other words one should be able to take in a tree from bottom to top in
one visual episode with no bumps in the speed of that view. Bumps being uneven spaces between branches, larger branches above thinner lower branches etc., etc.
The right tree on the other hand has the potential of being a much larger finished tree if that is what one wants. This tree could easily finish out a 24 inches or more. If grown in the ground thicker bottom branches could be grown as sacrificial limbs and cut back for taper over a period of time. During this time the apex could also benefit from some sacrificial growth. While not as shapely as the smaller charge, the top could have some new directional changes in it to help with more movement.
From my point of view, I feel the tree on the left has more of the attributes I wish my stump to have when starting a new tree. I have no problem in making small trees while others like larger trees. The tree on the right, for me needs lots of time to smooth out some chop visuals. The large chop that started the stump has an
abrupt direction change with a very square corner. It will take at least
five years or more for that to smooth out. It will only do that with long sacrificial growth and
working on the trunk prematurely will hinder that change. The small tree while having fresh pruning scars shows
very smooth transitions in the trunk, making it "pretty", which is a term used often when referring to maples.
Now this tree from the OP. I think I have made some very clear and consise statements about what I want when buying a maple. It should be no surprise to anyone how I might feel about that maple even at $59.00. Even at $29.00, for me, it would be a leverite tree.
Leverite where it is in the nursery!
Italic text are key points.