Japanes maple chop too high?

[dcmobbin]

Hello all, so I’ve had this maple for about 5 years. I originally bought it for a garden tree for my old house but ended up moving and the tree came with me since I never planted it. Its been at my new house for 4 years growing in its 24” wood container. I don’t have a good spot for it at my new house so about 4 weeks ago I decided to make it into a pre bonsai. I removed from box, root pruned pretty heavily since roots were growing though the box into the ground and chopped the trunk all in about an hour on the same day. It is in a cut down 20 gallon nursery pot. It is already pushing new growth but I feel like I should’ve chopped lower than I did. So I’m wondering if it’s a bad idea to chop it again to get it lower or just wait until next year?I’m also not sure if I should’ve kep the two opposing trunk lines? Let me know what u guys think. Thanks in advance

 

[Firstflush]

If you were going to chop again I would make sure you have lots of back budding much lower on the trunk.

 

[rockm]

Nice start. I wouldn't chop it lower. I would, however, lose that big first branch stump flush to the trunk--with a concave finish for callus. That branch stub is far too coarse for that high up in a final design and will only get worse as the tree gets older. Removing it would give the trunk you have left some very nice natural taper.

 

[dcmobbin]

Appreciate the quick reply’s!! The first branch stub has always bugged me so thanks for confirming my thoughts. I will remove that stub and concave it back. That stub doesn’t have much happening on it so I think tree should be ok with removing it now. Ill Leave the height and the right side of tree alone. Thought I’d throw a couple other trees I’m working on here since there in the same boat as the maple although a little different journey getting there. I bought both these tree as small bonsai trees about 11 years ago. The rain tree came from Fuji bonsai nursery and the Catlin elm came from Kimura nursery. I planted them both in the ground at my old house about 9 years ago. When I moved I dug them both up and replanted them in the ground at my new house about 3 years ago. Also moved a massive trident that ended up dying which was a bummer because it was gonna be a good one. Repotted them all about a month ago. A little worried about the rain tree because it may have been a little early for it but only time will tell. Catlin is going nuts right now. Open to any ideas on these trees as well.

 

[NaoTK]

I think you need that first big branch, otherwise that long section to the first branch is boring. it is set up nicely as the bigger branch. Once you build taper into the first branch it will be beautiful.

 

[dcmobbin]

Thanks for the reply.. I definitely have some thinking to do because that first branch does have a bud forming in the perfect spot to introduce taper in the right direction. I get both sides of the coin though. It is a pretty large branch stub where it’s at, though If I introduce taper, especially with the bud that is growing, it def could be very interesting… hmmmm

 

[Shibui]

There is always going to be a range of opinions on what looks good and when is best to do any work.
Most initial reduction chops are too high as most of us aim chops at finished height rather than allowing for growth of a new apex and branching. Having said that it is usually safer to reduce height in stages as many trees are more reluctant to bud on the oldest sections. Massive reduction chops can cause partial trunk and root die back so taking time can be safer.

I'd leave all these trees for now. Older trunks do not always bud readily so it is safer to reduce height slowly rather than go for broke at the first chop. Let them all grow and recover from both the initial chop and root reduction. The new shoots that do emerge this time may give you some ideas for future development but if further reduction is required you should get better response from a well established, healthy tree.

Adding a location to your personal profile helps other members understand your seasons and climate which will allow us to adjust advice better for your area.

 

[Mike Westervelt]

Nice trunks, my only comment would be they all seem a little high in the pot, ie. roots too exposed.

 

[dcmobbin]

There is always going to be a range of opinions on what looks good and when is best to do any work.
Most initial reduction chops are too high as most of us aim chops at finished height rather than allowing for growth of a new apex and branching. Having said that it is usually safer to reduce height in stages as many trees are more reluctant to bud on the oldest sections. Massive reduction chops can cause partial trunk and root die back so taking time can be safer.

I'd leave all these trees for now. Older trunks do not always bud readily so it is safer to reduce height slowly rather than go for broke at the first chop. Let them all grow and recover from both the initial chop and root reduction. The new shoots that do emerge this time may give you some ideas for future development but if further reduction is required you should get better response from a well established, healthy tree.

Adding a location to your personal profile helps other members understand your seasons and climate which will allow us to adjust advice better for your area

Thanks for the advice. Yeah I’m thinking Ill just let it go this year and see where it goes. I just wanted to make sure that wasn’t making too big of a mistake by leaving what I did.

 

[dcmobbin]

Nice trunks, my only comment would be they all seem a little high in the pot, ie. roots too exposed.

Thanks! Yeah the elm and rain tree both had some pretty stout tap roots that I may not have chopped deep enough, though There is plenty of soil under the root ball. Guess I could always add a little more soil if it becomes a problem. Don’t really want to mess with them to get them lower now

 

[Mike Westervelt]

Sure, I wouldn't disturb them now, but you could mound up some soil to prevent the fine roots close to the surface from drying and dying
And a 1/4" layer of shredded sphagnum on top of soil helps to retain moisture and encourage fine roots as well