JPB Seedling Wiring

nurvbonsai

Shohin
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Middle TN
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7A?
Greetings,

How did I do here? Its still a struggle for me to wire young seedlings without disrupting the fronds.
 

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When I wire pines I make the coils about twice as small so I get more freedom in bending. Tighter bends means more dramatic structure and less wiring later.
That is my only critique. You did a good job, it's consistent, the right size wire and evenly spaced.

As for wiring over needles: I'm of the school of thought that goes against some popular ideas, wiring should be functional and effective above all. If that means wiring over needles, so be it. I could take the needles off and they would be dead, with wire over them they give back to the plant for another 6 months, most of the time. The needles that can be wired over for structural purposes will never end up in the final design, that'll be refinement and that's a different story. I'm not displaying seedlings in a show, why should I make it pretty and add an extra year to the development while I can go hard now? And being honest, in development most plants are pretty ugly anyways, having nice wire on them doesn't make them better looking. In my opinion it's better to get out of the ugly phase faster, and if disregarding pretty wiring is a part of that, then I'm going down that road.

Of course everyone is their own person and should do what works for them! I'm just saying that if the goal is Rome, the plane is faster than walking. Not as pretty, not as disciplined, but it saves me so much headache.
 
When I wire pines I make the coils about twice as small so I get more freedom in bending. Tighter bends means more dramatic structure and less wiring later.
That is my only critique. You did a good job, it's consistent, the right size wire and evenly spaced.

As for wiring over needles: I'm of the school of thought that goes against some popular ideas, wiring should be functional and effective above all. If that means wiring over needles, so be it. I could take the needles off and they would be dead, with wire over them they give back to the plant for another 6 months, most of the time. The needles that can be wired over for structural purposes will never end up in the final design, that'll be refinement and that's a different story. I'm not displaying seedlings in a show, why should I make it pretty and add an extra year to the development while I can go hard now? And being honest, in development most plants are pretty ugly anyways, having nice wire on them doesn't make them better looking. In my opinion it's better to get out of the ugly phase faster, and if disregarding pretty wiring is a part of that, then I'm going down that road.

Of course everyone is their own person and should do what works for them! I'm just saying that if the goal is Rome, the plane is faster than walking. Not as pretty, not as disciplined, but it saves me so much headache.
I tried some more.
 

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Nice, here's an example of tighter coils and how it would affect the bending options.
The limitation right now is the spacing in between the wire, with a tighter coil you get some more pliability and support over the length of the trunk, which in turn would allow you to make more extreme bends in smaller spaces.
The blue line is just an example in 2 dimensions, in real life you can go wild with directions as well.
wirink.png

I wouldn't remove the wire now, it'll be good for a while and it'll take a while before this plant becomes too fat to properly wire. But for the next plant you wire, it might be fun to try the tighter coiling for yourself.
 
I agree that more aggressive movement is good. It shortens the trunk, giving more chances for lower branches.

EDIT: The videos below are for early development of small bonsai, not big bonsai. If you plan to grow this tree to have a large trunk, then maybe just let them grow a while.

Here's one of the videos that helped me a lot:

And for next year:
 
You can bend them aggressively when they're young, depends on the style you want. These are some two-year-old JBP I plan on putting in the ground to grow. I like gnarly and twisted trees, so I try to incorporate 90-degree bends earlier on


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