Korean Black Pine in training.

bonhe

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Adair M, post: see some candles weren’t cut. Why not?
Lol. Like I wrote, the spring shoots were either cut completely (complete decandling) or partially (incomplete or partial decandling). With partial decandling, some new needle groups are left untouched, and this is why you thought some candles were not cut!

When I decandle, I cut all the candles. Some places have only a single strong candle, and obviously, it gets cut. Other places will have the primary candle and some smaller ones, too. I cut them all. Even the smaller ones
I don’t know if you know this idiom: “All roads lead to Rome”. It means all the methods of doing something will achieve the same result in the end. In bonsai, the final result is a beautiful product. To get to that goal, there are so many ways to perform on the tree. If we only know one way to do, we may be faced with a difficult situation which we don’t know how to pass through that blockage! The artist has many colors to choose from to draw the picture. The smart surgeon will know what he/she has to do when he/she find out the unexpected situation in removing necrotic gallbladder. When we are training tree for bonsai, we are like the captain of the ship. We have to know well how to guide the ship through the sea to the seashore. Basing on the condition of the ship and the weather, the captain chooses the best way to go.

Now back to your statement. Yes, I cut all the candles (I call complete decandle) for my black pine, but only for the matured bonsai, not for the young pine. In this post, all my Korean pines are too young for me to do complete decandling. When these Korean pine are younger than 4 years old, I only used partial decandling. After 4 years old, I use both complete and partial decandling.

By the way, I also don’t decandle at all, depending on the condition of the branch.
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bonhe

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Hi Bonhe,

How often do you water your trees with seaweed extract and humic acid? Once a week or everytime you water? I add 5oz of seaweed extract and 1oz of humic acid (earth juice) for 5 gallons of water. I feed my California Junipers when the soil start to get dry and I'm afraid I may over dose my trees with humic acid. Thanks Bonhe
Sorry for the late reply.
The last time I used seaweed extract was 5 - 6 years ago. I used it in the Fall.
I have been using humic acid granule once a year and when I transplant the tree.
If your soil is well drained, you can apply fertilizer as your schedule.
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bonhe

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I brought some of Korean black pine seedling out for pruning this morning.
The ROR trainee. Before.
IMG_8447.jpg

After both partial and complete decandling.
IMG_8452.jpg IMG_8453.jpg

Its barks
IMG_8454.jpg

Another ROR trainee. Before
IMG_8465.jpg

After both complete and partial decandling.
IMG_8466.jpg

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bonhe

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Before
IMG_8458.jpg

After both complete and partial decandling
IMG_8464.jpg

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bonhe

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Before
IMG_8467.jpg

After both complete and partial decandling
IMG_8468.jpg IMG_8469.jpg

Trunk line
IMG_8470.jpg IMG_8471.jpg

This one for MichaelS. I wired this part to make a 95 degree angle
IMG_8472.jpg

Alll of them are fertilized with Woodace 2-3-6 A.C.R.E. right after the decandling.
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sierrajuniper

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Sorry for the late reply.
The last time I used seaweed extract was 5 - 6 years ago. I used it in the Fall.
I have been using humic acid granule once a year and when I transplant the tree.
If your soil is well drained, you can apply fertilizer as your schedule.
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Are you using Woodace 12-3-6 or 0 10 10 in the fall for black pine and ca junipers? Do you fertilize from October to the end of December and then stop until the end of February? Thanks Thu Thoai
 

bonhe

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Are you using Woodace 12-3-6 or 0 10 10 in the fall for black pine and ca junipers? Do you fertilize from October to the end of December and then stop until the end of February? Thanks Thu Thoai
You are welcome.
I use Woodace 12-3-6 specialized for acid loved trees
I fertilize them at the end of the winter and one more at the start of summer when I prune the pine (young pine ). With the old pine, I fertilize woodace once a year at the end of winter. I also use slow releases organic fertilizer at same time with woodace
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bonhe

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I just found out this sign on the candles yesterday! It happens on only one KBP. I think it will cause an interesting effect on the future branch later on.
IMG_8558.jpg IMG_8559.jpg

The tree
IMG_8560.jpg

Its trunk line has the same effect.
IMG_8561.jpg

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bonhe

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This one had June schedule (the way my teacher says) on 6/9/18. It has a lot of new shoots at this time.
IMG_8562.jpg IMG_8563.jpg IMG_8564.jpg

If they mature and the tree's health condition is good in the end of September, I will cut at A, B and C. Otherwise, I will only cut A and wait until next June to do B and C cut.
IMG_8565.jpg

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bonhe

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This one also had June schedule done. It also has a lot of new shoots coming out at this time.
IMG_8567.jpg IMG_8568.jpg

Do I care about wire marks? (the arrows pointed to)
IMG_8569.jpg IMG_8573.jpg

No, I don't. Look at these areas which used to have deep wire marks.
IMG_8571.jpg

How is about the bad wiring ?
IMG_8570.jpg

No, I don't care either because these trees are in training and I won't put these trees to the bonsai show. These works are behind the scene.

This is my tip: I save all the used wire to reuse it as needed. I rarely remove the wire with the wire cutter. I just unwire them, and when I unwire them and I am practicing my wiring technique but in the reversed mode. The more you are practicing, the more you become expertise! Even the 6 cm long wire can be used! It save not only the money but more importantly the environment.
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bonhe

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I brought the last few KBP out for pruning this morning. These were transplanted last Fall.
The 1st one.
Before
IMG_8607.jpg

After, with one wiring
IMG_8611.jpg

This one was received inarching graft on 9/7/2017.
IMG_8617.jpg IMG_8619.jpg

It has a few "critical areas" created by multiples lower branches next to the soil surface.
IMG_8621.jpg

I cleared up the "critical areas" by removing the downward needles.
IMG_8628.jpg

I cut off the inward scion part
IMG_8623.jpg

I keep the outward scion part intact
IMG_8624.jpg

Finish. This tree still has long way to go!
IMG_8625.jpg

The root surface
IMG_8627.jpg

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bonhe

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Another one. Before
IMG_8630.jpg

I create better taper for the upper trunk line by bring one branch up with wire and twisting bend
IMG_8632.jpg IMG_8633.jpg

The leader candle is kept intact.
IMG_8634.jpg

Another one. Before
IMG_8635.jpg

After
IMG_8640.jpg

It has a lot of moss!! It is unusual to have moss growth in my area (hot and dry).
IMG_8637.jpg

After pruning the young pine, I always give them humic acid granule and Woodace 12-3-6 A.C.R.E
IMG_8631.jpg

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bonhe

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Are you keeping this lowest newly emerging branch at the base of the tree (on the left) in order to enhance the nebari, may I ask?
Oh no. The one which you see is the needles dropped down from my work ;)
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bonhe

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I needed to reduce the density of this tree this morning.
Before
IMG_8680.jpg IMG_8682.jpg

After clearing out some small branches in the center and removing the old needles. Not much change, isn't it? Hopefully, it will be done more in September.
IMG_8683.jpg IMG_8684.jpg IMG_8685.jpg
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