Miraclegrow, New limb growth overdrive, Grow lights

sciguy1872

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Hi. I live in Missouri, so heading into late Fall/early Winter, but I have grow lights bought from Amazon, so tree's metabolism shouldn't be slowed during Winter sun. My question is if using Miraclegrow, because, I think I remember seeing the ratio at 8-6-8, some numbers that make me think the tree is going to grow in overdrive manor, with a Nitrogen number like that.
I do want overdrive growth for the new limb that appeared on the main stem--right now, the Limb looks tiny, and I have placed training wire to get the Limb to grow upwards, not towards back of tree. With the grow light providing a sunlike day, can I substitute the Bonsai Pro I use in favor of a rich Miraclegrow? Can I use Miraclegrow without diluting it, because of Winter? If I need to dilute it, should I stay with Bonsai Pro--the tree looks healthy.20250929_213943.jpg20250929_221013.jpg20250911_121755.jpg20250929_221041.jpg20250929_221100.jpg
 
My question is if using Miraclegrow, because, I think I remember seeing the ratio at 8-6-8, some numbers that make me think the tree is going to grow in overdrive manor, with a Nitrogen number like that.
If the Bonsai Pro is 7-9-5, you probably won’t see much difference with Miracle Gro 8-6-8. Some Bonsai Pro advertises macro/micro nutrients that regular Miracle Gro might not have. If the tree is sending out new growth, then you can fertilize in winter. Follow the labels, but you can also dilute and feed more often. Say cut in half and feed twice as often.

The little white “shoot” looks like an aerial root and will not develop into a branch with leaves.

Your tree has a nice trunk with movement. Depending on your goals, you could prune/wire the top next summer to give it movement, direction, and a padded canopy.

Over winter goals might be to keep it healthy and not get too leggy or shade out lower growth and drop branches. Light pruning or light defoliation can help with keeping the lower branches growing strong.

Happy Growing.
 
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Hey. Thanks for the reply. I can't believe that something that belongs with roots can be so far away from soil-- that thing is near the branches, at the top of the tree. Cool if I get to remove it, though. So you're sure it's an aerial root and not a branch, like I am hoping?
If it is an aerial, does it say anything about the health of the tree?; like spreading roots to try to get more nutrients, so maybe use more fertilizer?
 
So you're sure it's an aerial root and not a branch, like I am hoping?
If it is an aerial, does it say anything about the health of the tree?; like spreading roots to try to get more nutrients,

Yes, aerial root. Young shoots will be light green and have leaf buds pretty early. There is no harm in removing it. They usually dry up indoors unless you have it in a humidity tent. They can be used in design, search “banyan bonsai” to see forms with aerial roots coming down from the canopy to the soil. They are thought to be structural aids and assist in the spreading nature of some ficus in the wild. If you are following the bonsai pro fertilizer instructions, it is probably getting enough nutrients.

I wouldn’t want a branch from the spot where the root is, as it could cause it to overly thicken more than the underlying trunk. Causing a reverse taper, which can be aesthetically undesirable.

You can search “mature” or “specimen ficus bonsai” here or on the web to find inspiration images for styling. There are some nice ficus bonsai at the below link.

 
I second Hemmy's suggestion to check out banyan bonsai - the aerial roots can be a really awesome feature. I don't have much experience with ficus, and not 100% that I'm doing the right thing, but my tropicals get Osmocote twice a year (maybe 3X) and I will use liquid fertilizer full strength once a week almost all year. I am growing these trees out. They grow like crazy and I chop them once in winter (basically, to get them back outside in spring) and once in late summer (so I can get them back inside in October). The intention is to give them some time to acclimate to the cut before I shock them with the move (again, not sure this is correct or best practices).
 
Hi. I decided to remove the aerial, but I'm happy with the tree the way it is: triangles from all directions. Plus what I call a 3-D triangle from the side--hypotenuse sloping down, the bottom line sloping towards the pot, the third line at an angle. Cool, to me.
 

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