New pot

Forsoothe!

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Nice. I almost bought an elm when I was on vacation...one of these days.
This is what I think Rock was talking about
View attachment 272031 View attachment 272032

Plastic like, but similar size 18" long and 2.25" tall with shallow feet.
It was manufactured with 5 drainage holes, I added probably 8 more for wire.
If you were only hand watering your tree, and not in a rain prone area
a single hole just may be what the conditions need. If you ever were to drill this,
it would be best to have the underside perfectly supported with an even drillable wood base
to support a glass drilling bit like a circle with diamond tip is good. The wood will still support
the pressure of the edge as it comes through. A light continuous flush would be beneficial too. Clean.
View attachment 272033 View attachment 272034
I believe these 2 pots are similar to yours but rather small so a single hole it is.
The oval had a black olive in it at one point in my past. If they had stickers on them, they're long gone,
but no stamps on either style. They would not do well outdoors here if in use.
The oval, why I pictured it, though only 8.5" L, has 2 drainage holes. I hope to have a maple in it one day.
Oh, and the in turned lip is definitely not good for freezing either.
One way to drill through a ceramic pot, but not stoneware, is with a carbide tipped drill (cement drill) underwater, slowly from the backside (underside) of the pot. There will be some shattering of the surface as it first bursts through, but the "from" side will look OK. If you use a smaller drill, ~3/8" or so and then follow that with a tapered grinding bit you can enlarge the hole to your liking or by switching the drilling back-and-forth from the inside to the outside under the water in a dishpan which cools the surface. The shattering occurs when the ceramic becomes very thin just before the drill passes thru the far side. That's also when the grinding tool works best, -when the material is thinnest, so going back-and-forth between drill and grinder works well for the novice. The water gets cloudy quickly and needs to be changed with each pass, but anyone can do this with the right bits and patience. If you stop drilling from one side just as the drill makes a tiny hole in the far side, it won't shatter. Do this first step under water either from the inside with the pot full of water but none in the pan, or by holding the pot down under a pan full of water such that the water begins to drain thru the hole immediately when it is tiny and before the hole gets big enough to have thin edges that catch the leading edges of the drill bit. The water will begin to rush thru the hole and you can spot this if you're watching for it. Stop the drill at that point and drill from the other side, or change to the grinding bit (from the other side, too). Once you get the hang of it, anyone can do this. Back-and-forth, front to back to front to back, ad infinitum. This is easier on a drill-press, but you can do it with a hand drill, too. Try not to electrocute yourself by dropping the drill into the water. Here are two sugar boats that were too cute to pass up.
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Just throw away the lid!
 

Japonicus

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One way to drill through a ceramic pot, but not stoneware, is with a carbide tipped drill (cement drill) underwater, slowly from the backside (underside) of the pot. There will be some shattering of the surface as it first bursts through, but the "from" side will look OK. If you use a smaller drill, ~3/8" or so and then follow that with a tapered grinding bit you can enlarge the hole to your liking or by switching the drilling back-and-forth from the inside to the outside under the water in a dishpan which cools the surface. The shattering occurs when the ceramic becomes very thin just before the drill passes thru the far side. That's also when the grinding tool works best, -when the material is thinnest, so going back-and-forth between drill and grinder works well for the novice. The water gets cloudy quickly and needs to be changed with each pass, but anyone can do this with the right bits and patience. If you stop drilling from one side just as the drill makes a tiny hole in the far side, it won't shatter. Do this first step under water either from the inside with the pot full of water but none in the pan, or by holding the pot down under a pan full of water such that the water begins to drain thru the hole immediately when it is tiny and before the hole gets big enough to have thin edges that catch the leading edges of the drill bit. The water will begin to rush thru the hole and you can spot this if you're watching for it. Stop the drill at that point and drill from the other side, or change to the grinding bit (from the other side, too). Once you get the hang of it, anyone can do this. Back-and-forth, front to back to front to back, ad infinitum. This is easier on a drill-press, but you can do it with a hand drill, too. Try not to electrocute yourself by dropping the drill into the water. Here are two sugar boats that were too cute to pass up.
View attachment 272411
View attachment 272412
Just throw away the lid!
Well aint that cool :cool:
Just remembered my wife wanting to make an illuminated wine bottle and glue flat glass pieces on
like one we saw at a B&B we stayed at in Michigan, at a winery.
DSC_3832.JPG
focused on the smoothness of the cut
DSC_3833.JPG
I did this in a drill press with the bottle in water but I forget what vessel we used as a reservoir + towel for stability.
Wrapped 80 then 100 grit sandpaper around a little bit smaller drill bit and knocked off any remaining sharp edge (by hand).
These bits are quite inexpensive for what they do. There's less shatter too, than a focused central contact point.
I would start from the glazed side on a pot.
 

Forsoothe!

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That's a flat carbide or diamond leading edge?
 

Japonicus

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That's a flat carbide or diamond leading edge?
Yes diamond similar to these
 

Forsoothe!

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Yes diamond similar to these
I bought this set of diamond coated bits and used one today on four ordinary vases to make pots out of them.
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Worked very well!
 
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