Not a trident maple?

Smoke

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What Al Keppler not working on a trident. Blasphemy!

I wanted to pot this up last year but decided to wait one more year as the top was not what I thought it should be. This year it looks better so it went into it's first show pot this year.

This is a mountain maple, (acer palmatum) planted in a root connected style. The two trees were planted together about four years ago from two maples trained independent of each other. The trees are now grafted at the base and are fused into one tree. The trunks have grafted in about the lowest 1/4 inch of trunk.
 

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Smoke

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The tree is planted out in a Gary Wood pot. Gary has been pretty quiet on the forum lately, maybe this will coax him out.

Tree is about 6 inches tall.
 

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JudyB

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Nice pot, nice tree, really nice photography.
Will the bases push away from each other as it grows, or will they actually grow into each other more? The reddening buds are a nice sight. Won't be long till spring is here. (I'm sure it already is for you.)
 

misfit11

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Great stuff, Al, even if it's not a Trident!;) I really like the composition as the exquisite pot works with the trees beautifully. I think what you've achieved here really demonstrates the delicate beauty of a Japanese Maple versus the strength of a Trident. Nice work.

The one thing about Japanese Maples as illustrated here is there tendency to sometimes retain that green bark for quite a long time. Harry Harrington has a JM that had this feature. He says about this tree:

"The immature green bark of Acer palmatum can take over 10 years to disappear and so I have gently abraded the green bark twice a year with sandpaper to encourage the appearance of mature bark."

The entire progression is here: http://www.bonsai4me.com/AdvTech/ATAcer%20palmatum%20Japanese%20Maple%20Bonsai.html

Anyway, great tree. Thanks for posting.

Cory
 

raydomz

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Great looking little maple. I always enjoy seeing your pot selections, very nice stuff.
Very envious of your seasons at the moment :D
 

jk_lewis

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I think I would have worked on the top a bit more before putting it in a "show" pot. Much ramification needed, and for that you need roots.
 

Alex DeRuiter

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Will limiting the root system yield shorter internodes? This is something I've always been a bit unclear on...how do you create those short internodes when you're ramifying branches? Is it strictly by the way you fertilize a tree, or is it more? Amount of sunlight? I assume it's different for different species, but. . . . Anyone have an article on this?

As for the tree, I think it's a wonderfully odd one. I'd love to see it once it's got some leaves.
 

Smoke

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I think I would have worked on the top a bit more before putting it in a "show" pot. Much ramification needed, and for that you need roots.


hmmm......
 

daygan

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Will limiting the root system yield shorter internodes? This is something I've always been a bit unclear on...how do you create those short internodes when you're ramifying branches? Is it strictly by the way you fertilize a tree, or is it more? Amount of sunlight? I assume it's different for different species, but. . . . Anyone have an article on this?

Simple answer is that you prune away the vigorous growth, leaving weaker growth that will produce shorter internodes. Good information HERE (bottom of page) and HERE (search "pinching back acer palmatum") . Both are bonsai4me articles...
 

Alex DeRuiter

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Thank you daygan! I knew pruning was most important in ramification, but those articles are extremely helpful. I'm not yet to a point where I need to ramify anything, but I will be in 3-5 years or so.

One thing I'm curious about, though, is ramification in terms of the root system. Can fertilizing affect ramification? I imagine the answer is yes, so, how significantly does it affect it, and how do people use that to their advantage? Also, does limiting the root system have a significant affect on ramification? I imagine that pruning the roots of a tree would inhibit nodal growth (is that the right term?)...but is that right? I would like to experiment on this idea, but has anyone already done so?
 

Smoke

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Thank you daygan! I knew pruning was most important in ramification, but those articles are extremely helpful. I'm not yet to a point where I need to ramify anything, but I will be in 3-5 years or so.

One thing I'm curious about, though, is ramification in terms of the root system. Can fertilizing affect ramification? I imagine the answer is yes, so, how significantly does it affect it, and how do people use that to their advantage? Also, does limiting the root system have a significant affect on ramification? I imagine that pruning the roots of a tree would inhibit nodal growth (is that the right term?)...but is that right? I would like to experiment on this idea, but has anyone already done so?

Yes!

And contrary to popular belief, good ramification is done in a show pot, not in a gro pot.
 

daygan

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Hey, Smoke - is that a "Yes" to all of those above questions? As in:

Can fertilizing affect ramification? - Yes
Does limiting the root system have a significant affect on ramification? - Yes
I imagine that pruning the roots of a tree would inhibit nodal growth - Yes
I would like to experiment on this idea, but has anyone already done so? - Yes

And.. How would you answer that other non-Yes/No question : How do people use (fertilizing to affect ramification) to their advantage?
 

Dan W.

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And.. How would you answer that other non-Yes/No question : How do people use (fertilizing to affect ramification) to their advantage?

I'm fairly new to bonsai, but my understanding is that the basics are: strong fertilizer = longer/stronger nodes - & - weak fertilizer = shorter thinner nodes (better ramification). This would also be the same reason a small pot is better for fine ramification. It sounds to me like you have already guessed at this conclusion :)

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 

Dan W.

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Watering also plays a huge role in developing and sustaining ramification.

The hard part for me has been figuring out the exact science for each of these factors. ... still working on it.
 

Smoke

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Hey, Smoke - is that a "Yes" to all of those above questions? As in:

1. Can fertilizing affect ramification? - Yes.
2. Does limiting the root system have a significant affect on ramification? - Yes
3. I imagine that pruning the roots of a tree would inhibit nodal growth - Yes
4. I would like to experiment on this idea, but has anyone already done so? - Yes

And.. How would you answer that other non-Yes/No question : How do people use (fertilizing to affect ramification) to their advantage?

1. When a tree for me is to enter the ramification ( here to for known as R ) stage, I do not fertilize until after the new growth has hardened off. This may be as late as June for me. This is also a time when fertilizer may be given at a rate of 25 % strength every other week.

2. For me, limiting the root system is the most key factor. I have found little difference between small gro pot and small sho pot. Just so long as the roots do not have a place to bolt (run into the ground) or elongate too much.

3. Repotting does not so much play a direct part on R, but it does improve R due to the fact that the roots are kept short and not allowed to run. Allowing roots to run is the way you build large trunks and build wood fast. What I want is shoots. With a healthy root system in a small pot, I get those but am able to control them more because their energey is balanced to the pot size. Think of aquarium fish. As long as fish are kept in a small tank and overcrowded they will not grow very big at all. Put them into a large tank by themselves and they will grow large enough that they get thrown into rivers all around the world. Ask people in Texas why the Rio Grande has so many Oscars!

4. I have done much experimenting on most of these subject over the last 30 years. I have always shared my experiences whether on this forum or those of years past.
 
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Smoke

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Watering also plays a huge role in developing and sustaining ramification.

The hard part for me has been figuring out the exact science for each of these factors. ... still working on it.

Water, not so much on D trees but certainly very effective for pines.
 

Dan W.

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I really appreciate your posts Smoke. Especially the progression posts have taught me a lot in the short time I've been on B-nut.
 
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