Over 2 years air-layering a juniper and still barely nothing. Does it always take this long?

NamesakE

Mame
Messages
103
Reaction score
95
I've been air-layering this juniper for about 2 1/2 years and there's barely any roots. The top is completely separated from the top and both are flourishing. What am I doing wrong?
It's probably hard to see but there's barely any roots. I put a couple more wounds on the general area but I'm not sure how much it'll help. I don't think the branch is thick enough to warrant that length of time.
 

Attachments

  • 20230528_155542.jpg
    20230528_155542.jpg
    345.4 KB · Views: 123

Paradox

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
9,424
Reaction score
11,617
Location
Long Island, NY
USDA Zone
7a
It doesnt look like you have a clean cut around the whole thing or it has bridged the cut.
If you just made small wounds hoping it would make roots from those, it wont. You have to completely separate the two areas.

Also Junipers are very hard to air layer and do not have a very high success rate if any.
 
Last edited:

NamesakE

Mame
Messages
103
Reaction score
95
It doesnt look like you have a clean cut around the whole thing or it has bridged the cut.
If you just made small wounds hoping it would make roots from those, it wont. You have to completely separate the two areas.

Also Junipers are very hard to air layer and do not have a very high success rate if any.
That's a bummer! I thought they air-layered easily! I checked the area and it's completely separated (you can't see from the pictures but it's completely detached and slightly swollen at the base of the cut area). There are some roots but they're small and stringy. I'm surprised the top is doing that good just from feedback from the rootstock. Guess I'll just keep waiting and hoping.
 

NamesakE

Mame
Messages
103
Reaction score
95
It doesnt look like you have a clean cut around the whole thing or it has bridged the cut.
If you just made small wounds hoping it would make roots from those, it wont. You have to completely separate the two areas.

Also Junipers are very hard to air layer and do not have a very high success rate if any.
 

Attachments

  • 20230528_160217.jpg
    20230528_160217.jpg
    502.9 KB · Views: 110

NamesakE

Mame
Messages
103
Reaction score
95
What the whole plants looks like.
 

BrightsideB

Omono
Messages
1,244
Reaction score
1,734
Location
Canton, Georgia
USDA Zone
7a
Maybe try using a different mix for your layer. Like a pumice, bark, and spagnum mix. I’ve seen successfull juniper layers with a plastic pot as the container. Watering it everyday getting good air and water flow. And if you have roots try using some liquid organic fertilizer to help with stimulating more root growth.
 

NamesakE

Mame
Messages
103
Reaction score
95
Maybe try using a different mix for your layer. Like a pumice, bark, and spagnum mix. I’ve seen successfull juniper layers with a plastic pot as the container. Watering it everyday getting good air and water flow. And if you have roots try using some liquid organic fertilizer to help with stimulating more root growth.
It's mostly sphagnum and pumice now. But I'll definitely tend to it more. I was thinking of asking a bit of root hormone earlier myself. Glad I might be on the right track. Hopefully it'll be good by next year
 

Shibui

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
7,642
Reaction score
15,421
Location
Yackandandah, Australia
USDA Zone
9?
First things first.
Where in the world are you? There are definite differences in timing and effectiveness of many bonsai techniques in different climates. best to add a location on your personal profile so it shows up when you post.
The juniper looks healthy enough so vigour should not be holding roots back.
I've found junipers to root very easily but the roots do grow and develop slowly so it may take longer for the roots to thicken. Meanwhile junipers can survive with relatively few roots so maybe it is OK. Any chance there are more roots under those you can see in the pic or have you investigated thoroughly?
Junipers do not like roots too wet. It is possible your sphagnum/ pumice mix is just a bit too wet for the roots to grow well.
I checked the area and it's completely separated (you can't see from the pictures but it's completely detached and slightly swollen at the base of the cut area).
If the layer is completely detached then how/why is it still on top of the tree. Maybe detached means different thing to both of us?
 

SeanS

Omono
Messages
1,238
Reaction score
3,476
Location
Johannesburg, South Africa (SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE)
USDA Zone
9b
Your first photo shows a bunch of missing bark/wounds to the branch just above where you’re trying to layer. Why is that? Have you just made some haphazard wounds to the bark in that area to try to generate roots?
 

NamesakE

Mame
Messages
103
Reaction score
95
First things first.
Where in the world are you? There are definite differences in timing and effectiveness of many bonsai techniques in different climates. best to add a location on your personal profile so it shows up when you post.
The juniper looks healthy enough so vigour should not be holding roots back.
I've found junipers to root very easily but the roots do grow and develop slowly so it may take longer for the roots to thicken. Meanwhile junipers can survive with relatively few roots so maybe it is OK. Any chance there are more roots under those you can see in the pic or have you investigated thoroughly?
Junipers do not like roots too wet. It is possible your sphagnum/ pumice mix is just a bit too wet for the roots to grow well.

If the layer is completely detached then how/why is it still on top of the tree. Maybe detached means different thing to both of us?

Sorry, should've been a bit more clear. I meant detached as in there's only phloem/hardwood keeping it connected to the rootstock. All the outer tissue (xylem, cambium, bark) on the upper piece is detached from the outer tissue on the rootstock. As for location I'm in the northern U.S. Michigan to be precise.
 

NamesakE

Mame
Messages
103
Reaction score
95
Your first photo shows a bunch of missing bark/wounds to the branch just above where you’re trying to layer. Why is that? Have you just made some haphazard wounds to the bark in that area to try to generate roots?
Yeah I added a few extra wounds hoping their exposer to the soil might help get things going a little more. A hail a Mary move I'm sure. : )
 

Shibui

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
7,642
Reaction score
15,421
Location
Yackandandah, Australia
USDA Zone
9?
If the cambium is disconnected from trunk below that's as good as you can get. Adding new wounds will not make any difference IMHO.
There's 2 strategies I would try:
1. use better soil mix for the layer. I suspect the current mix is too wet for good root growth but very hard to be sure from this distance.
2. take the layer off with just a few roots. I'm regularly amazed at how few roots layers need to stay alive after separation. Separation also seems to give the tree a wake up call and they soon have lots of roots after being removed from the stock plant.
 

NamesakE

Mame
Messages
103
Reaction score
95
If the cambium is disconnected from trunk below that's as good as you can get. Adding new wounds will not make any difference IMHO.
There's 2 strategies I would try:
1. use better soil mix for the layer. I suspect the current mix is too wet for good root growth but very hard to be sure from this distance.
2. take the layer off with just a few roots. I'm regularly amazed at how few roots layers need to stay alive after separation. Separation also seems to give the tree a wake up call and they soon have lots of roots after being removed from the stock plant.
Thanks for the advice! That's the hard part about this hobby. Putting years into something with a unknown chance it could die.
 

snowman04

Chumono
Messages
637
Reaction score
1,060
Location
Saline MI
USDA Zone
6A
I always look at it as the journey... Your project will get where it needs to be.
 
Top Bottom