Progression - Taxus #2 Collected from a Hedge

[BonsaiRic]

How bout a back branch then? Or maybe a slight change of planting angle towards the right?
But I like Al's idea....

Judy, I have a couple of back branches. You can see one down low on the right that I can use for the taller tree or the shorter version. No current back branch or budding in the area you recommended in your earlier post. As you know Taxus might pop a new bud there any year. I'll see what pops next spring.

 

[Poink88]

Thanks.

I also like the virt but maybe even better if you can save a little of that top branch if it back bud lower.

 

[BonsaiRic]

Back of the tree.

 

[BonsaiRic]

Another pic with an apex branch pulled down to diminish straight section. (with virtual)

The current pot is pretty deep to accommodate the bottom of the stump. I wonder if the taller version would be a better balance for now?

 

[Poink88]

I actually prefer the back as front. The 3rd pic is also intriguing...maybe you can take a pic from mid height of that too?

If you lean the tree a bit to the back's left I think it may work. Esp if the top branch back buds near the crotch. You do need to address the nebari also. Just an idea.

 

[coh]

Al, are thinking something like the virt below? Jin the top and make the mid-level branch the new apex?

Hmmm, I think shortening the tree in this manner (or similar to it) might be the best approach...really makes a powerful looking tree.

Chris

 

[JudyB]

I like your chosen front best, and the short version, not that this is a poll, but there it is.

 

[fore]

I like your chosen front best, and the short version, not that this is a poll, but there it is.

I''m with Judy and Chris, like the present front, and the shorter styling. Though the straightness of those r. jins I'm not too crazy about.

 

[BonsaiRic]

I''m with Judy and Chris, like the present front, and the shorter styling. Though the straightness of those r. jins I'm not too crazy about.

I may be able to carve more movement into the jins but most of the Taxus I dug out were pretty straight. Shortening them slightly might help.

 

[october]

I think, in this case, I might be against shortening this tree. I'll explain why. I do love shohin. I am a big fan of a nice shohin. However, there is more to shohin than a fat trunk. A beautiful shohin generally has a powerful trunk, but nice movement. Although this tree would still be a very nice bonsai even if it was shortened. To me, you have somewhat taken away the movement and the essence of the tree. You are left with a thick, hour glass shape trunk, but no real movement. Just a trunk.

Here are 2 virts. I removed and added foliage where appropriate. Notice in virt one with a shorter tree. The eye is drawn to an almost hour glass like trunk that does not have movement. Also, right above that, the tree splits into a fork then there is an apex. To me, there might be too many displeasing things on the view on the way up. You have the hour glass, then a fork, then the apex. I believe this leaves the viewer wishing the tree was higher and that there was some movement.

Now notice in virt 2. With foliage pads in the appropraite places, the branch pulled down slighty also the swelling from the technique that was applied. You have a tree that has movement. As your eye goes up the trunk. You see a nice base, some dead wood, then the movement kicks in. Then, the top gracefully leans like an old, majestic tree.

Well, virts are easy. The true test is seeing the tree through to reality. Now, if for some reason, you do not like the taller version after a few years, you could probably chop it and start on the shorter version. However, once that top is gone, the plan of a taller tree would take many years to achieve.

These are just my opinions.

Rob

 

[coh]

Interesting suggestion. I'm not a big fan of the straightness of the upper segment, even if the taper is improved with the thickening. Can that branch/trunk segment be bent at all?

As for the shorter option - how about putting some foliage in from of the trunk near the top of the hourglass and split, to lessen the impact of that area? Very crude but perhaps something along these lines:

 

[BonsaiRic]

Interesting suggestion. I'm not a big fan of the straightness of the upper segment, even if the taper is improved with the thickening. Can that branch/trunk segment be bent at all?

As for the shorter option - how about putting some foliage in from of the trunk near the top of the hourglass and split, to lessen the impact of that area? Very crude but perhaps something along these lines:

View attachment 40796

Thanks for the thoughts. The tree is not very tall to begin with so I will be limited in how many foliage pads I can subdivide the total tree height into. From pot lip to top of the "new" lower apex is only about 10-12". I will give your ideas some consideration. Thanks!

 

[BonsaiRic]

I think, in this case, I might be against shortening this tree. I'll explain why. I do love shohin. I am a big fan of a nice shohin. However, there is more to shohin than a fat trunk. A beautiful shohin generally has a powerful trunk, but nice movement. Although this tree would still be a very nice bonsai even if it was shortened. To me, you have somewhat taken away the movement and the essence of the tree. You are left with a thick, hour glass shape trunk, but no real movement. Just a trunk.

Here are 2 virts. I removed and added foliage where appropriate. Notice in virt one with a shorter tree. The eye is drawn to an almost hour glass like trunk that does not have movement. Also, right above that, the tree splits into a fork then there is an apex. To me, there might be too many displeasing things on the view on the way up. You have the hour glass, then a fork, then the apex. I believe this leaves the viewer wishing the tree was higher and that there was some movement.

Now notice in virt 2. With foliage pads in the appropraite places, the branch pulled down slighty also the swelling from the technique that was applied. You have a tree that has movement. As your eye goes up the trunk. You see a nice base, some dead wood, then the movement kicks in. Then, the top gracefully leans like an old, majestic tree.

Well, virts are easy. The true test is seeing the tree through to reality. Now, if for some reason, you do not like the taller version after a few years, you could probably chop it and start on the shorter version. However, once that top is gone, the plan of a taller tree would take many years to achieve.

These are just my opinions.

Rob

Thanks Rob,
I appreciate your perspective!! I like the wisdom of your last paragraph. I'll let this tree develop more and see if the taller tree will work out. If not I can shorten it. Looking forward to more input. I like your taller-tree virt. With a taller tree I could have potential for more foliage pads as you've depicted.