Red Maple Collected Spring 2007

[pjkatich]

Martin,

More than happy to share.

The tree in the first picture was started from a seed in 1994. It was planted on the rock in 1996 and has been under development as a bonsai since that time. It has been grown mainly using clip and grow methods along with the use of guide wires. The tree is approx. 19" (48.5cm) tall and 16" (40.5cm) wide. The trunk is approx. 2.5" (6.5cm) at the point where it leaves the rock.

The tree in the second picture was started from a seed in 1991. It was planted on the rock in 1992 and has been under development as a bonsai since that time. As with the first tree, it has been grown mainly using clip and grow methods along with the use of guide wires. That is why it is in the training box at this point in time. I needed to adjust and relocate some of the branches this past growing season along with giving the tree a little more root run to regain vigor. The tree is approx. 21" (53.5cm) tall and 19" (48.5cm) wide. The trunk is approx. 2.5" (6.5cm) at the point where it leaves the rock.

I have never wired either of these trees. I perfer to use clip and grow, guide wires, and sacifice branches to develop may trees. It takes a bit longer but I like the results.

I am always open to suggestions, so feel free to critique.

I'll dig out a few photos of the trees with leaves if you are interested.

Best wishes,
Paul

 

[Martin Sweeney]

Paul,

I would be very interested in seeing the trees in leaf, please share if you can.

I am quite reluctant to critic your trees, I like them very much. So, I am approaching this from a "what would I do with them if they were mine" viewpoint. If they were mine I would investigate making them shorter and more compact, hoping to create the look of more taper and hoping to increase the apparent weight of the trunks and stones on each. Also, I would look to continue the trunkline in the direction of the movement from left to right

I would be concerned that shortening the trees would remove the lightness and openess that you have developed over the years, however.

Regards,
Martin

 

[Martin Sweeney]

Paul,

Here is what I am thinking looking at the picture you posted. Can't tell if this is possible, if you are willing to comment on the feasability I would appreciate it. Like to know if I am really seeing what I think I am.

I realize that I probably just cut off 6 or 7 years of dedicated care and development on your part, but there you go!

Your critique of my critique would be appreciated as well.

Regards,
Martin

 

[pjkatich]

Martin,

Here are some photos of the two trees with leaves. The photo of the first tree was taken in 2006, I did not take a photo of this tree in leaf for 2007. The photo of the second tree was taken in July, 2007.

In regards to your suggestion, it is feasible. I had been contemplating cutting back the top and regrowing it for the last two years. There are a number of branches along the upper trunk that could be grown into a new apex. I will try and take a few photos of that portion to the tree for discussion.

Your suggestion is one I commonly get with many of my trees. I tend to grow them a little taller than what the rule books spell out. I perfer a taller, graceful look over a short, stout style. However, with this particular tree, I would tend to agree with you assessment.

Thanks for the feedback.

Paul

 

[Martin Sweeney]

Paul,

Thanks for the reply and comments.

I must say I am struck by a couple of things when looking at your 2 trees in leaf.

First, that I like both of them more with leaves than without. The leaves really work with the branch structure you have created. Usually, and especially with my own trees, I like deciduous trees out of leaf more than in leaf. The open spaces that seemed disconnected when your trees were bare are filled in well by the leaves(Maybe almost too much on the second?). Nice job.

Second, by how consistently sized your leaves are, or at least appear to be. The leaves on my tree were all over the place size-wise. I assume this was because of this past growing season being the first out of the ground, and because I allowed unchecked growth for the first couple of months after bud break. You appear to have a good handle on balancing the energy of the tree.

Finally, by how clean and healthy the leaves are. All the red maple in my yard(all landscape volunteers) and my stump all developed a spot fungus by July, and we were having a drought!. I would have thought that sort of problem would be even worse in Florida. Very good work on keeping your trees healthy.

Regards,
Martin

 

[pjkatich]

Martin,

Thanks for all the positive feedback.

In regards to the leaf size, this is a by-product of the growing methods I talked about earlier. I have found that you can substantially reduce the size of Acer rubrum leaves following this regiment and that from year to year the trees will produce smaller leaves on their own.

The hardest part is balancing the vigor of the lower branches. As with most trees, A. rubrum are geared for top growth at the expense of the basal branches. Getting this species to commit to an even growth pattern is hard. That is one reason why the second tree is in a growing box and not a bonsai pot at this point in time. I have found that after several seasons in a properly sized bonsai pot, the lower branches start to weaken. By planting the tree in a larger container (either a growing box or a larger bonsai pot) for one or two growing seasons and allowing the lower branches to grow out a little, the vigor can be restored.

As you have noted, in the early stages of training, the leaf size can be a little hit an miss. It will take some time and patience on your part to get the tree to start producing smaller leaves. There appears to be two kinds of growth on A. rubrum. The first and primary type is the rank growth which is normally accompanied by long internodes and large leaf sizes. The second type starts to appear after a few growing seasons following the methods described earlier. It is finer, with shorter internodes, and smaller leaf sizes. This is the growth that I try to encourage through selective branch pruning, leaf pruning, and proper fertilization. The trees are extremely reluctant at first to co-operate. However, persistance does pay off.

In regards to the overall appearance of the leaves, I credit this to consistant horticultural practices. I have experienced similar fungal problems and have learned how to limit or prevent them here in my little corner of the world. Normally, the leaves on my red maples don't start to decline in appearance until late summer or early fall. This seems to be a natural cycle because I see the same thing in the local landscape trees.

Best wishes,
Paul

 

[Jay Wilson]

Paul,
Thanks for all the good info and tips. As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I've not been very succesful in growing red maples, though I had one tree (my oldest) that did pretty good this year with much smaller leaves and shorter internodes. With your tips, I hope to do better next year.

 

[pjkatich]

Jay,

I'm glad that you found the information useful. In general, there is little useable information available on growing Acer rubrum as bonsai. When I first started out, the majority of the information I did find indicated this species was a waste of time. The books said that A. rubrum was a short lived tree, it had long internodes, and large leaves that did not reduce well.

I don't know about the short lived statement, but I do know that by applying the correct growing methods the internodes can be shorted and the leaves will reduce. It just takes time and patience.

Another interesting aspect is that A. rubrum works very well for root-over-rock style. The roots will firmly grasp a rock in as few as two growing seasons and start to spread over the rock surface after five seasons. All my Red maples are grown in this style.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Best wishes,
Paul

 

[Martin Sweeney]

Red Maple Stump Update

All,

Here is my stump repotted and trimmed awaiting the new growth to push out. I removed the strongest terminal buds to try to encourage shorter internode distance.

Will try to post another picture after the leaves emerge.

Suggestions and constructive criticism welcome

Regards,
Martin

 

[anttal63]

martin this is exceptional material, great shape, nice lines. destined to be a rippa!

 

[pjkatich]

Martin,

You are well on your way to a very nice Red Maple bonsai.

Do you have a rough idea of the final size and design of this tree yet?

Please post some photos of the tree in leaf.

Paul

 

[Martin Sweeney]

Antonio,

Thank you for the positive comments. My wife says it looks like a sea slug. She has a point, and a much better artistic eye than I.

Paul,

I do not yet have a plan for the future worked out. I have been too focused on post collection recovery and learning a little about how it reacts to my attempts at training to look too far down the road.

I would be interested in seeing what others see as future possibilities.

Regards to you both,
Martin

 

[Martin Sweeney]

All,

Still hoping for virtuals of future possibilities....

I find it interesting that some Red Maples in the landscape have second or third sets of leaves and seeds already, some landscape Red Maples haven't even opened as much as this one.

Here is the tree just starting to leaf out.

Regards,
Martin

 

[JTGJr25]

Very nice tree it has fantastic potential. Any chance you could post a pic of the chop so we could see how it looks? My carving skills are lacking as well. Would you share with us how you removed it? Did you just use a saw? Thanks.

Tom

 

[Martin Sweeney]

JTGJr25,

I will post a picture of the chops when I get a chance.

The initial cuts were made with a bow saw. The second cuts, the ones that lead to the current state of the tree, were made with a dremel. Basically, I carved all the wood I didn't want out, and probably some I shouldn't have.

Regards,
Martin

 

[JTGJr25]

I'd love to see how this tree is doing.


Tom

 

[Martin Sweeney]

Tom,

Thanks for inquiring. Please see the picture taken today attached.

The tree didn't do too much growing this year. I removed the main (terminal) buds on pretty much all the branches, which did keep the internodes shorter and the leaves smaller.

I also repotted the tree into a smaller, although still the largest I have, pot. It is acting as a training pot. The tree barely fit (front to back) into the pot. I had to do some additional work on the heavy roots to further reduce them and get the tree into the pot.

I think the removal of the terminal buds and the root work were a little too much for the tree all at once (same season, not the same day) as I had lots of budding from the trunk and bases of the branches, and less growth from the branches themselves. I also think the worst is well past, and look forward to enjoying some fall color, some time inspecting the structure after the leaves fall and better growth come spring. If I had a chance to go back and do it over, I would not have repotted it this spring.

Regards,
Martin

 

[JTGJr25]

Very cool it is looking good. Yes I agree you shouldn't have repotted so early but whats done is done and next year it can get back to growing. I suppose the longer its in a small pot the smaller the leaves will get.

Tom

 

[Martin Sweeney]

Red Maple Update

All,

Didn't get as much branch development this year as I wanted, but the tree is into a smaller pot and has lots of buds. I expect much better growth in the spring. I hope to wire it between now and then to get a foundation for the future established.

Regards,
Martin

 

[pjkatich]

Martin,

Looks to me like you did well for one season.

When you refer to branch development, do you mean ramification or increasing the size of individual branches?

Regards,
Paul