Saplings in buckets?

Nellb

Sapling
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Recently I purchased an American larch and an Amur maple sapling (1-2') from Cold stream farm

http://www.coldstreamfarm.net/p-128-amur-maple-acer-ginnala.aspx
http://www.coldstreamfarm.net/p-57-american-larch-larix-laricina.aspx

And had a question on how to pot them. I was thinking of placing them in 5 gallon buckets, but was unsure on what type of soil to use, basically should I put them in bonsai soil to grow, or another type? Any recommendation would be a huge help.

Thanks!
 

Bunjeh

Chumono
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I would cut the tap root and grow them in the ground for a couple of years for now.
 

Bunjeh

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I have been looking at CSF. Were you satisfied with the purchase? I am thinking of getting a couple quercus robur.
 

Nellb

Sapling
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Currently I have no ground to plant them in. Next year, when my lease is up, I hope to move some where I can plant them. I was thinking 5 gallon buckets could hold them over if I do it right.

I haven't received them yet, but when I do I'll post pictures and a what limited review I can provide.
 

Nellb

Sapling
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Thank you!
I've been reading as much as I can over the past few days and wasn't sure if there was "a way" to grow these bare root trees into bonsai. I have been thinking of using mostly inorganic soils so they can get use to it. I was unsure if because they don't have an established root system in the same ways that other trees of their size do, if I should put them in something else.
I'll probably end up reading that in it's entirety tonight
 

thumblessprimate1

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While you have no ground to plant them in, consider growing it in a colander and good bonsai soil. The roots will be better.
 

Paradox

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A bucket isnt a great training pot for a bonsai. Something wider and shallower would be better, Ive used plastic dish pans with holes drilled in the bottom, lots of holes.
 

whfarro

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Search this forum. Many threads discussing this topic. Grow boxes, Anderson flats, colanders, pond baskets, and endless debates on soil and fertilizer.
 

coppice

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Buy the biggest plastic colander(s) you can find. Mix one (50 LB) bag of grani-grit poultry scratch with a 50 of soil conditioner (pine bark mulch). Should net you more than enough fast draining soil to get you started.
 

Nellb

Sapling
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Thank you guys for all the info, this had been a huge help. I have been searching this forum, and others, a ton, it's just so much information for a newbie with no growing experience at all, that I've found out hard to figure out an action plan. I had assumed that buckets were one of the only options I had, but one colanders were mentioned I started seeing all the other options lol.

As for the soil, I bought
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00QW7SSPE
A little while ago for a baby schefflera I picked up at home depot, but am not keen on it and don't want to use it for these 2 trees. It retains more water then I'd like, and I wasn't sure if putting these two trees in that soil would be the best move. So I really appreciate coppice breaking down a useable soil mixture for me.

Thanks again everyone for all the input, it's made me feel a bit more confident in giving these trees a fighting chance.
 

whfarro

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I cannot tell where you're located or zone you are in from your profile, but be sure to be careful as to when to repot these.
 

Nellb

Sapling
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Hmm I thought I put it in there before, I'm in CT, zone 6A. I won't be receiving these trees for a few weeks atleast, so I am hoping by then it's warmed up to a nice constant 50F. Currently the temperature is fluctuating between 35 to 50F
 

GrimLore

Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
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Honest they could be potted now. They may appear fully asleep but I am guessing you will probably be seeing them "push" within a week or two. The Size of the pail depends on the size you purchased. For example 2 years ago I planted 2 bare root Crabapples 3 foot tall in 20 gallon containers and they are 7 - 8 foot tall already and the bases have put on a lot of girth. When I do that with most any tree into a pot for growing I find the bigger the better. Also those plantings get a standard top soil and dry stall mixed 50/50 by volume. It is inexpensive and effective here and I am in 6B.

Grimmy
 

Nellb

Sapling
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So I know this is a bit after the fact, but I'm getting the trees in a few days and have picked up a bunch of supplies to create my own soil and a sifter set, I got 25 lbs of poultry grit, orchid mix
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KWXTH36
And pine bark chips
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-2-cu-ft-Pine-Bark-Nuggets-363936/20252608

I'm debating picking up perlite or not, and also is standard top soil made of composted pine bark a good idea if I sift it?

I plan to put the trees in plastic colander
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008V673Y6
and probably cover the upper silts somehow. I hope I'm on the right track with this, so if I'm screwing up please let me know!

Thanks
Dan
 

M. Frary

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I don't use organic components in my soil so I won't comment on that part but leave every slit open on your collander. The whole point of growing a tree in a collander is that as the roots grow out they encounter air which they can't grow into. That effectively cuts or prunes the end of the root. Now the root will send another feeder root out from back farther in. The same thing happens over and over in the course of the season. What you end up with is a lot of fine roots growing straight out from the trunk that you can cut back enough to fit the tree into a bonsai pot without fear of it dieing. If grown in a bucket the roots hit the wall of the bucket and start circling and intertwining and basically turning into a convoluted tangled mass of larger roots.
Another plus in growing in a collander is the tree takes off like a rocket due to fresh air being brought in when you water. Which for me is every day.
 

sorce

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If that price is for one colander, you ought find an Asian market where they get em for 1-2 bucks.

Packing wet Sphagnum around the side will keep small particles in. You definitely don't want to cover the holes the surface roots have to run out of.(top)

You're close to Frary and I far as zone, I'd use OilDry. Napa 8822. For soil. It works here! One cheap, available, component, that you could use without sifting, as Mike does, or keep the fines to kill slugs. ...bonus !

Sorce
 
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