Sickness, root issues, dryness, dormancy?

Strudel

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Hi guys:) I've had this tree for about a decade and, within the past few months, it deteriorated pretty quickly and then completely stopped going bad -- about 2/3 of the tree seems to have died off, and 1/3 of it looks okay but hasn't gotten any worse or better. The fact that the condition hasn't worsened or improved makes me think dormancy? Since it's spring now, I repotted it just a few days ago but I'm not sure what else to do, since I'm not sure if the issue is disease, a root issue, a sun issue, or a watering issue. Additionally, it did have a tiny bit of new growth at the beginning of spring, but only where the rest of the greenery already is. It really seems like 2/3 is just dead. For what it's worth, I keep it outside year-round in southern California and water 2x a week max. I have some photos so if anyone has any input or suggestions, or questions, please let me know:)
 

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n8

Shohin
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Sorry about your juniper. I'm afraid it looks dead.

Generally not a good idea to repot a sick or weak plant.

Junipers will turn a little browner during dormancy, but not die off like this. Hard to determine cause of death without any history. My guess is that it was underwatered last summer and then drowned this wet winter. (General diagnosis based on SoCal location. If you want to add a location and USDA zone, that may help.)

Chalk it up to bad luck as you've kept it going for ten years. This has been a weird winter in California, although I suspect it's just the beginning of complete unpredictability. Find a local bonsai nursery and try again.
 

Strudel

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Sorry about your juniper. I'm afraid it looks dead.

Generally not a good idea to repot a sick or weak plant.

Junipers will turn a little browner during dormancy, but not die off like this. Hard to determine cause of death without any history. My guess is that it was underwatered last summer and then drowned this wet winter. (General diagnosis based on SoCal location. If you want to add a location and USDA zone, that may help.)

Chalk it up to bad luck as you've kept it going for ten years. This has been a weird winter in California, although I suspect it's just the beginning of complete unpredictability. Find a local bonsai nursery and try again.
Would you say that with complete certainty? I just did a scratch test on a branch that looks more or less "alive" and it's pretty bright green underneath, even more so in person than in the photos. It has some brand new buds poking out on it and some on neighboring branches too. I live in a 10a/10b zone, San Diego area. I also have a Japanese maple and dwarf pomegranate that I keep fully outside under the same exact conditions, and both seem fine. I know maples especially aren't very tolerant of higher number zones, but that one's about 6 years old and looking good. For history, it has only been repotted once (?) that I know of, and I didn't do a full repot a few days ago, just an emergency slip potting. I'm just a little hesitant to say goodbye when it seems to me like there might still be some signs of life:)
Also, I'll be moving to Davis, CA this fall for school. Do you think this would fare ok there or should I leave it here with family? And do you know of any hardy species that would do well in that area?
 

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Shibui

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Where there is green leaves there is still hope. The problem is that junipers tend not to show any signs in early stages so when you do see signs it is often too late to save them. I have occasionally resuscitated junipers that looked bad but that's not common.

There can be many causes for junipers looking sick.
  • Probably most common is feet too wet for too long = root rot. The longer they are in the same soil the more likely this becomes as components slowly break down leading to less drainage and less air in the soil. Obviously too much water will do a similar thing. Watering as normal over winter can be enough to maintain wet feet.
  • Too dry can also cause die back. Sometimes spring catches us off guard when we have not had to water through winter but suddenly the days are warmer and longer and the tree tries to grow which uses more water leading to dehydration.
  • A couple of pests - scale and mites like junipers and if they get bad can cause dieback so check carefully for any signs of pests, webbing, etc.

I will also do emergency repots if I suspect the problem is bad soil or root related. Repotting a sick tree is not the best thing but if the soil is causing the problem then not repotting is likely to kill it where at least after repotting is has half a chance.

Fingers crossed that yours can overcome whatever problem it has experienced.
 

Strudel

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Where there is green leaves there is still hope. The problem is that junipers tend not to show any signs in early stages so when you do see signs it is often too late to save them. I have occasionally resuscitated junipers that looked bad but that's not common.

There can be many causes for junipers looking sick.
  • Probably most common is feet too wet for too long = root rot. The longer they are in the same soil the more likely this becomes as components slowly break down leading to less drainage and less air in the soil. Obviously too much water will do a similar thing. Watering as normal over winter can be enough to maintain wet feet.
  • Too dry can also cause die back. Sometimes spring catches us off guard when we have not had to water through winter but suddenly the days are warmer and longer and the tree tries to grow which uses more water leading to dehydration.
  • A couple of pests - scale and mites like junipers and if they get bad can cause dieback so check carefully for any signs of pests, webbing, etc.

I will also do emergency repots if I suspect the problem is bad soil or root related. Repotting a sick tree is not the best thing but if the soil is causing the problem then not repotting is likely to kill it where at least after repotting is has half a chance.

Fingers crossed that yours can overcome whatever problem it has experienced.
Thanks for the detailed response:) I think root rot is the culprit, but I'm at a loss as to whether I should leave it alone, repotted in its new soil and mostly undisturbed at the roots (as it is currently) or take it out, cut back any root areas that look bad, and then repot it again. Have you had more success with either of these approaches?
 

Shibui

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Have you had more success with either of these approaches?
Provided you can identify the cause and take action to address that some trees will recover all by themselves.
I usually repot to remove any problem soil and infected roots on the basis that removing the problem makes it easier to avoid continuing the problem. That does not always work as sometimes the tree is already too far gone but with proper care after repot many trees can survive and recover.
Fortunately I have not had a great deal of experience in reviving trees with root rot and I guess most practical experience is derived from just a couple of trials. Anyone with lots of experience is surely not caring for trees properly to get the problem more than occasionally so I would always take any advice on curing root rot with a grain of salt..
 
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