Tilia cordata

[PieterVE]

Repotted my Linden last friday, with the help of a club member, because we had to do some rootwork and he has more experience.
Bought the tree last year in may from Danny Use's nurcery.
Love the trunk, I think to create some Uro's in the future of even a hollow trunk, I think that will fit the tree.
Roots were all growing round and round in the pot, so we had to adresse that. We cut one of the roots in half en inserted a little Pierce of wild to open op and to turn one half more straight from the base. Did put sphagnum mos in between them to help grow new roots there.
Will leave it in the box for a few years, but check on the roots next year.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Good job on getting to work on these roots, especially the big crossing root.

I’m left wondering why you didn’t cut the crossing root off near the trunk right off , waiting it to die back and a final trim next fall? Was it just convience that you left it so long? If so, I’m thinking you might cut it short to get this resolved sooner then later.

I’m a bit non plussed about the three massive roots together on one side. If I read you correctly. You split one of these to make it into two. That’s a good start. What’s the plan for the future on these roots, leave as is, or continue to split/cut back?

cheers
DSD sends

 

[PieterVE]

Good job on getting to work on these roots, especially the big crossing root.

I’m left wondering why you didn’t cut the crossing root off near the trunk right off , waiting it to die back and a final trim next fall? Was it just convience that you left it so long? If so, I’m thinking you might cut it short to get this resolved sooner then later.

I’m a bit non plussed about the three massive roots together on one side. If I read you correctly. You split one of these to make it into two. That’s a good start. What’s the plan for the future on these roots, leave as is, or continue to split/cut back?

cheers
DSD sends

It was Danny himself who told me to cut that root only halfway, and let it react, and then next cut it shorter, so not to disturb the tree too much in one go.
Maybe a little carving on top to hide the underlying roots is a possibility in the future too, I've seen Harry Harrington do that to one of his trees.
For the other root, that was cut in half, there too, I hope to get some more new roots closer to the base, and eventually, cut further or shorten them if there are enough new roots closer again to the base.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Awesome @PieterVE!

All great thoughts! I’m looking forward to seeing how this tree develops in the future.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[MACH5]

Good work Pieter. A good size tree because they do tend to have larger leaves. These trees are an excellent subject for bonsai. Not sure how familiar you are with Tilia, but they are quite flexible even older branches and do back bud readily. Be mindful that Japanese beetles love to munch on them!! So keep an eye on that. I love lindens in leaf as much as without.

 

[PieterVE]

Th

Good work Pieter. A good size tree because they do tend to have larger leaves. These trees are an excellent subject for bonsai. Not sure how familiar you are with Tilia, but they are quite flexible even older branches and do back bud readily. Be mindful that Japanese beetles love to munch on them!! So keep an eye on that. I love lindens in leaf as much as without.

Thank you for the advice Sergio ! I'll check the tree regularly.
I love the overall shape, as we have a lot of large Tilla in europe as examples and I have the luck to have a very large double trunk tree in sight of my garden for reference
The plan is now to open up the canopy with guy wires and start creating the ramification.

 

[PieterVE]

Good work Pieter. A good size tree because they do tend to have larger leaves. These trees are an excellent subject for bonsai. Not sure how familiar you are with Tilia, but they are quite flexible even older branches and do back bud readily. Be mindful that Japanese beetles love to munch on them!! So keep an eye on that. I love lindens in leaf as much as without.

@MACH5 Sergio, what is your preferred method for pushing backbudding ? Now that the young shoots are getting larger, just pinching the leaf at the top of that shoot, or, waiting for the shoots to harden off and then cutting back to 1 or 2 leaves ?

 

[MACH5]

@MACH5 Sergio, what is your preferred method for pushing backbudding ? Now that the young shoots are getting larger, just pinching the leaf at the top of that shoot, or, waiting for the shoots to harden off and then cutting back to 1 or 2 leaves ?

Pieter, I have limited experience since I've owned mine only since 2018. So thus far here are my observations. Last year I let the tree extend and harden off. Afterwards I cut it back. I noticed some weaker shoots either did not open or the leaves dried up and died. So this year I changed my strategy. I pinched aggressively to two nodes as shoots began to extend. It seems it helped quite a bit in preserving the health of weaker smaller branches on the inside. Now I am planning to do a full defoliation in early to mid June. But I do think cut backs will produce buds readily on this species.

BTW, on trees with an alternate leaf pattern like linden, beech, hornbeam, etc, always cut back to two (or more) leaves. Otherwise if you cut to one node/leaf you won't advance your ramification since you'll only get one branch extending from it and not two.

 

[LanceMac10]

Are you aware there is a dwarf variety? @MACH5

 

[MACH5]

Are you aware there is a dwarf variety? @MACH5

View attachment 375621 View attachment 375622 View attachment 375623 View attachment 375624

Yes sir, I am

 

[PieterVE]

Was not so happy overall this growing season, I had to move it around a bitt early on as the first heat didn't go well with it, and after that it had difficiulties being a happy tree...

Now allready without all its leaves

 

[PieterVE]

Summer update

 

[PieterVE]

Worked on the tree at a workshop at Danny´s, wired and formed the tree under his watchfull eye, next is repotting.