Top and bottom trees...stack ranking

Brian Van Fleet

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A common HR tactic is to "stack rank" our team, by identifying the top and bottom 10%, then come up with a plan to get the top 10% promoted, and the bottom 10% moved up, or out of the organization. I started doing this with my trees a few years ago, and at first it was pretty easy. Then, as my bottom 10% became better, it became more difficult to let them go. at he same time, it also became difficult to bring myself to spend the time needed to move them up to get them off the bottom 10% list.

I work with several pros, most frequently Kathy Shaner and Bjorn. Kathy is a big advocate for managing a smaller collection of better trees...spend more time with fewer trees was what she told me this spring. I couldn't bring myself to tell her that I had just dug up my whole back yard, and my collection had grown from a very manageable 35 trees to a hoarder status of 115.

I have since managed to sell around half of them, but 55 trees is still far too many for me to care for properly. When Bjorn was here in May, I asked him to objectively review my collection and pick out what he considered to be my bottom 10 trees. Not necessarily bad trees, but those that either:
1. Had physical qualities that preclude it from ever being a national exhibition tree
2. Represented the lowest quality in the collection
3. Has defects that weren't worth the time or effort to overcome
4. Wouldn't thrive in my climate, or stand up to long-term bonsai training (Ezo, corkers)
5. Had been developed to a point where they peaked and probably wouldn't get much better in my lifetime.

We walked the benches, and I agreed with 8/10 picks, and have moved out many of the trees he identified, as well as some other material that I decided I just didn't want to spend time developing.

So each year, I try to do this exercise. Just for kicks, I thought I'd start a thread where anyone can post their top and bottom couple bonsai trees (meaning they must be in bonsai pots), and share thoughts on the selection process. For some consistency, let's do this:

Show your top couple trees in bonsai pots and state:
1. What is the tree and who made it's pot?
2. How much time have you invested in it?
3. Why is this your top tree?
4. What are your plans to get it "promoted" over the next 12 months? New pot, local/regional/national show?

Then, show us the bottom couple trees, which are in bonsai pots, and state:
1. What is the tree and who made it's pot?
2. How much time have you invested in it?
3. Why is it on this list?
4. Why is it still on your bench?
5. What is the plan? Chop? Bend? Plant out? Sell?

I'll start.
 

Brian Van Fleet

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Top trees:
image.jpg
1. Pyracantha in an Aiba Koyo pot
2. I collected it in 2005, so I have 10 years into it now.
3. I particularly like the profile, movement, lichen on the trunk, the aged appearance of the Shari, and the contrast of berries with the pot. That's what makes it a top tree,
4. It won Best of Show at the Alabama Bonsai Society Spring show this year, and may go to the Carolina Bonsai Expo this fall.

image.jpg
1. Shimpaku in a 3rd generation Yamaaki pot
2. I purchased it in 2013 as an overgrown bonsai imported in 2009. I have nearly 2 years into it now.
3. I like the dual live veins, the deadwood Shari, and the fact it is an import. Styling it with Bjorn and having a highly refined juniper on my bench makes it a top tree.
4. It was entered in the Cup, but not selected. I will likely continue to refine it in preparation for submitting it to be considered for the 2016 USNBE.

Bottom trees:
image.jpg
1. Zelkova in a Yamafusa pot (same pot that went to Nationals in 2012)
2. I have 9 years into this tree, and it requires quite a bit of attention during the growing season.
3. It is on this list because it has big leaves and long internodes. The base is decent, but the nebari has been in development for over 9 years and is very slow to improve. The entire right side above the first branch is void of branches, so everything you see on the right, between the first branch and the apex is a comb-over. Not bad, but still a flaw.
4. It is still on my bench for mostly sentimental reasons. It is an old tree, displaying some very mature flaky bark; uncommon for young zelkovas. I know it has been in a bonsai pot for nearly 40 years.
5. The plans include:
A. Sell it.
B. Turn it around, chop it down, and develop an entirely new tree from the combover branches. It would be powerful, convincing, and include a scar that would take more than a decade to heal.
image.jpg
1. Toyo Nishiki quince in Aiba Koyo pot.
2. I have had it since around 2009, in the ground until last fall. It has received very little time from me, aside from occasional chopping.
3. It is on this list strictly because I don't have room for it, and of all the trees I own, I'm probably the least sentimentally attached to a few that have just been neglected and in the ground until we decided to move, and everything got dug up. It has very seasonal interest, and we are about as far away from that season as is possible!
4. It is still on my bench because the blooms were incredible in March, and I haven't seen a J. Quince with a much better base than this one has.
5. The plan is to move it to a plastic pot and let it go to a good home!
 

ColinFraser

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Fantastic idea BVF; thanks for starting this thread!

Almost everything I've got is raw/in training, and thus not appropriate for this thread, but I will be watching eagerly to see what other members post. I'll also be looking at my hoard with a more critical eye when I'm watering later . . .
 

Vin

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Brian,

I'm sure that Big Ilex you have is in the bottom 10%. I can run up there this weekend and pick it up just so you don't have to look at it anymore. Also, you'll have more time to spend with your top 10% trees. Winning! :rolleyes:

Unfortunately, I'm in the same boat as Colin. I have some in bonsai pots but they're still in training. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
 

sorce

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Excellent Brian. This is great.

Maybe we could expand to anything?

I'm sure we newbs, even more so, need to use this excersize.

Sorce
 

iant

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Great post! I have about 85 trees in development but none are in a bonsai pot or really in a refining stage yet...
Ian
 

barrosinc

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We should repeat this post for more noobish people, your two prebonsai with most potential and trees you have but have no faith in them but keep on wasting time on...
 
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Brian Van Fleet

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@Vin ... Make me an offer, but you'll have to come get it!
@sorce ... The goal is to evaluate the quality of bonsai trees in pots because at some point we may realize we're hanging onto them for the wrong reasons. You could piggyback into a new thread to expand to anything if you want. I've got material for that too! :eek: :confused:
 
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:eek:Yikes, hearing "stack rankings" just got me up to shut my door. The sales guys must be gathering for a meeting.....:eek:
 
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Thanks for the idea... i'm sitting with some dilemma myself. I counted my trees i wanted to keep a few weeks ago. All 50 of them. They are not all in bonsai pots, but i like developing from scratch. On the other hand, the more refined the trees are, the more time they take... and lets face it, that is a thing i don't have. I lack the time to bring them to the next level. Time to make some choices. Making an index in the next few weeks...
 

JudyB

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Should be fun to see who posts what here. Remember that one mans trash can be another's treasure...
 

JudyB

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Yeah Jeff, I don't think so....
you funny. :)
Too bad that I already did this last winter, and sold off my bottom third in the spring, or I'd have a lot to post here. I'll have to mull this one over and see where I am now.
 

Paradox

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I am in the same boat as Fraser and Vin. I have a grand total of 4 trees in bonsai pots, everything else is in a training pot.

I have done some of this though. I took two trees that I decided would never be bonsai and planted them in the yard this year. I gave 2 away a to fellow club members. I have gotten rid of at least two others. Three or four more died this summer, they were weak and didnt make it. One of my workshop trees from the ABS symposium gradually weakened after the workshop and it too went over the fence a couple of weeks ago. There is around two or three more that may go before winter comes.

So I am slowly reducing the number of trees to make things more manageable and to focus on working more with fewer trees.
 

Dav4

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I'll give this a whirl. The top five are easy, though. It's the bottom five that will take some thought.
DSC_0230.jpg
#1. Japanese Red Pine in a nice Tokoname round...don't know the maker or kiln but it is stamped. Purchased about 8 years ago from NEBG as neglected stock. Completely restyled after purchase. This tree has always proven vigorous and forgiving at the same time, and has responded well to everything, good and bad, I've done to it. The bark and shape of the trunk are exceptional, and it's the most refined pine I own. It's been shown several times in local shows, but I eventually want to take it nationally. My hope is to continue to keep this one happy as it gets older and more refined.
DSC_0257.jpg
#2. San Jose Juniper. Purchased from NEBG as neglected stock about 8 years ago. It was re-potted into this Bigei oval this past spring. The foliage on this one is quite good for a San Jose, and the trunk movement and the deadwood are focal features. Going forward, I'm planning to refine and add to the deadwood carving in the upper 1/3 of the trunk, as well as continue to tighten up the trunk.
DSC_0260.jpg
#3. Rocky Mountain Juniper. Purchased from NEBG about 10 years ago as completely untouched collected stock in it's original wooden box. It's planted in an older Tokoname. This is a great tree because it has exceptional natural deadwood along with great foliage for an RMJ. Also, well...it could be close to 1000 years old, so what's not to like;). Going forward, I want to find a slightly shallower and slightly wider pot for it...Matty O is on the case;)... and I need to further refine and define the foliage pads, which has proven a bit difficult with this one...but I think it's worth the effort.
DSCF1196_1.jpg
#4. Satsuki azalea 'Eikan'. This was purchased from NEBG as raw imported stock just over 6 years ago. It's planted in a contemporary Chinese container. You'll be hard pressed to find an azalea anywhere with a more impressive trunk...the pot is over 22 inches wide, so this one is BIG. The trunk, massive as it is, also has great movement, the primary branch is pretty cool, and the tree-pot combo really works. I started rebuilding the apex last year -the picture is over a year old-, so I'm going to continue developing it while keeping the rest of the pads in shape. Growing out the second lowest branch on the left is also a priority.
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#5. Japanese Yew. This tree was collected from my In-Law's yard in upstate New York 7 years ago. It's planted in a Dale Colchoy round. This is a great tree because of the natural AND carved deadwood;), and the trunk is massive to say the least. The foliage is good, and I'm learning- slowly- how to refine and manage it. It needs to be fine wired this winter, and the deadwood will get a tune up in the next year or two.
 

drew33998

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First is my crepe myrtle I got from a seminar with Bill V, Cherry dazzle I believe pot by Paul K a local potter. 2016- cut back primary branches to increase taper and let them grow out again. 2017-begin ramification on secondary branching and continue apex ramification. 2018-Ramify tertiary branching etc.
crapemyrtlesummer15.JPG

Next is my collected ligustrum. Dug from my parents house in a concrete mixing tub. 2016-Define a branching structure. 2017-Refine design/work on branch taper. 2018-Place in a bonsai pot and work on secondary branching.
Ligustrumsummer15.JPG

Last is my buttonwood. Purchased from the Joy of Shohin exhibit this year. 2016- Grow a new leader and wire with some movement. Move live portion away from deadwood. 2017-increase taper of new leader. 2018-Establish primary and or secondary branches
buttonwoodsummer15black.jpg
 
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