Unseparated Ume layers starting to flower, what to do?

[SeanS]

I have 3 Ume layers still on a parent tree that are taking an absolute age to root. One of them (the bigger of the 3) has produced a few very fine roots, but not enough to separate. All 3 layers have lost their leaves while the rest of the parent tree is still in leaf and set to start going dormant soonish (it’s almost winter here).
All 3 layers are now wanting to flower. The bigger one has produced a single flower so far, with the rest of the flower buds plumping up and getting ready to bloom.
My question is should I left them flower or should I pick off the flower buds to save energy within the layers?

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

I probably wouldn’t bother to remove the flowers.

 

[Shibui]

I also don't always bother removing flowers and it does not seem to make much difference. There may be some small advantage but I don't think flowers take a lot of energy so pick them off if you have the time and inclination but not essential.
Fruits probably take a lot more resources so keep an eye and remove any that start to swell after flowers.

No problem leaving those layers in place through winter. I would separate any layers, even with just a few small roots, early in Spring. It's always surprising how few roots they can survive on at that time of year. I suspect there's nothing like losing the support of the parent to concentrate a layer's attention on growing more roots.

I haven't layered Ume. I usually strike cuttings. Sometimes I get great results. Other times, despite doing approximately the same thing, results are dismal. Maybe the same with layers? so don't give up if these don't work out.

 

[SeanS]

@Shibui the white Ume next to this pink one has produced a number of layers and cuttings so far, while this pink one has had 2 failed layers, 1 cutting out of many attempts, and these 3 lethargic layers. It must be a variety that is just difficult to root.

 

[SeanS]

And yes @Shibui I plan to separate the layers in spring regardless of rootage as I need to dig these 2 trees up and reduce them to bonsai trunks for an imminent house move sometime in the next 12 months.

 

[namnhi]

I have 3 Ume layers still on a parent tree that are taking an absolute age to root. One of them (the bigger of the 3) has produced a few very fine roots, but not enough to separate. All 3 layers have lost their leaves while the rest of the parent tree is still in leaf and set to start going dormant soonish (it’s almost winter here).
All 3 layers are now wanting to flower. The bigger one has produced a single flower so far, with the rest of the flower buds plumping up and getting ready to bloom.
My question is should I left them flower or should I pick off the flower buds to save energy within the layers?

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I would say... enjoy the flowers.

 

[Shibui]

the white Ume next to this pink one has produced a number of layers and cuttings so far, while this pink one has had 2 failed layers, 1 cutting out of many attempts, and these 3 lethargic layers. It must be a variety that is just difficult to root.

That may go some way to explaining why I often get good results with the white flowers but poor with a red flowered weeping one. That's no consolation for you but, thanks for the heads up.

 

[SeanS]

More flowers

 

[Bonds Guy]

I would separate any layers, even with just a few small roots, early in Spring. It's always surprising how few roots they can survive on at that time of year.

I have a maple layer that started producing roots early October. As of now there’s a few more roots but not enough to support itself (at least so I thought). I wonder if I do remove it in spring, how likely will it produce a full or even a semi-full radial nebari?

 

[Shibui]

I have a maple layer that started producing roots early October. As of now there’s a few more roots but not enough to support itself (at least so I thought). I wonder if I do remove it in spring, how likely will it produce a full or even a semi-full radial nebari?

There's a good chance more roots will develop after separation.
You'll have exposed cambium in the area and the tree will be short on roots after separation. Nothing like need to stimulate action.
Whether you get a full radial root system remains to be seen. That will depend on how good that individual maple is at producing roots, how healthy and vigorous it is and probably also local conditions in the weeks before and after separation.
Nothing guaranteed but a good chance of more roots.