It is 'apply as needed', every day or anything in between.
It only affects what is on the plant surfaces at the time. I try to stay in the habit of removing affected foliage because it is just a source of spores and continuing infection; then spray.
I make a solution that is about 900 ppm - 2 U.S. tablespoons of 3% hydrogen peroxide in a quart of water. The exact concentration is not critical. Zerotol's label recommendations amounts to 300 ppm. Peroxide can be used up to about 0.2% without much worry. Use higher concentrations for a root drench (root rot). Use 0.1%-ish or less for a repotting root dip and general use spraying.
I have a problem with a particular cultivar of acer palmatum that shows up pretty much every spring. It may be fungal/bacterial - I don't know, but it kills my air layers from the previous season. I have begun spraying last year's layers even though the buds are just swollen have not yet broken. I will spray every day that it isn't raining until the period this problem has always occurred has passed. Every few (say 3) is probably adequate.
I have a couple of plants of which their foliage browns if water is allowed to stand. I've found that spraying peroxide solution is a remedy. So I try not to wet the foliage on these plants, but its not always possible - when I err, I spray. I suppose I could water these with peroxide solution, I just don't have a watering can (garden hose and hand pump sprayers but no sprinkling can

). I see no horticultural reason to forbid it. There is no toxicity accumulation. Peroxide breaks down into reactive oxygen and water.
Half a century or so ago, 3% hydrogen peroxide was the standard antiseptic in first aid kits and home medicine cabinets, so I am confident that it is as effective as copper for bacteria like pseudomonas syringae. I'm not sure that I've ever had it infect any of my trees though I did have an event a few years ago that damaged a couple of landscape maples that may have been. In all my reading, ps is described as an airborne bacterium that gains entry into tree tissues by being nucleation sites for ice crystals - in other words, an infection that happens during freezing weather. Hence the time to spray would be just before and during freezing weather - kind of ridiculous! So, to the extent that my understanding is correct, one really needs to spray something that leaves an active residue, copper or horticultural streptomyacin, periodically through the winter. There likely are other antibacterials of which I am unaware.
Long and rambling, but the best I can do to arm you with my 'knowledge'.