Zerotol substitute

Paulpash

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Maybe one for @0soyoung. I believe 3% hydrogen peroxide is a good way to fight against pseudomonas syringae but how should it be applied? As a spray, watered onto the rootball as a drench or both? Also what is the recommended time between applications? If a drench is needed I'll need to get a lot more H2O2.

I've already applied copper as a drench (and watered emerging foliage) today.
 
Maybe one for @0soyoung. I believe 3% hydrogen peroxide is a good way to fight against pseudomonas syringae but how should it be applied? As a spray, watered onto the rootball as a drench or both? Also what is the recommended time between applications? If a drench is needed I'll need to get a lot more H2O2.

I've already applied copper as a drench (and watered emerging foliage) today.

No point in peroxide if you've applied copper.
But, yes, peroxide is anti-bacterial (first aid antiseptic).
 
No point in peroxide if you've applied copper.
But, yes, peroxide is anti-bacterial (first aid antiseptic).

I only have one sachet of copper left & it's now nearly impossible to get copper based solutions in the EU now. Hydrogen Peroxide is more easily available. Can you advise on methods of application & timing please?
 
I only have one sachet of copper left & it's now nearly impossible to get copper based solutions in the EU now. Hydrogen Peroxide is more easily available. Can you advise on methods of application & timing please?
It is 'apply as needed', every day or anything in between.
It only affects what is on the plant surfaces at the time. I try to stay in the habit of removing affected foliage because it is just a source of spores and continuing infection; then spray.

I make a solution that is about 900 ppm - 2 U.S. tablespoons of 3% hydrogen peroxide in a quart of water. The exact concentration is not critical. Zerotol's label recommendations amounts to 300 ppm. Peroxide can be used up to about 0.2% without much worry. Use higher concentrations for a root drench (root rot). Use 0.1%-ish or less for a repotting root dip and general use spraying.

I have a problem with a particular cultivar of acer palmatum that shows up pretty much every spring. It may be fungal/bacterial - I don't know, but it kills my air layers from the previous season. I have begun spraying last year's layers even though the buds are just swollen have not yet broken. I will spray every day that it isn't raining until the period this problem has always occurred has passed. Every few (say 3) is probably adequate.

I have a couple of plants of which their foliage browns if water is allowed to stand. I've found that spraying peroxide solution is a remedy. So I try not to wet the foliage on these plants, but its not always possible - when I err, I spray. I suppose I could water these with peroxide solution, I just don't have a watering can (garden hose and hand pump sprayers but no sprinkling can:(). I see no horticultural reason to forbid it. There is no toxicity accumulation. Peroxide breaks down into reactive oxygen and water.

Half a century or so ago, 3% hydrogen peroxide was the standard antiseptic in first aid kits and home medicine cabinets, so I am confident that it is as effective as copper for bacteria like pseudomonas syringae. I'm not sure that I've ever had it infect any of my trees though I did have an event a few years ago that damaged a couple of landscape maples that may have been. In all my reading, ps is described as an airborne bacterium that gains entry into tree tissues by being nucleation sites for ice crystals - in other words, an infection that happens during freezing weather. Hence the time to spray would be just before and during freezing weather - kind of ridiculous! So, to the extent that my understanding is correct, one really needs to spray something that leaves an active residue, copper or horticultural streptomyacin, periodically through the winter. There likely are other antibacterials of which I am unaware.

Long and rambling, but the best I can do to arm you with my 'knowledge'.
 
It is 'apply as needed', every day or anything in between.
It only affects what is on the plant surfaces at the time. I try to stay in the habit of removing affected foliage because it is just a source of spores and continuing infection; then spray.

I make a solution that is about 900 ppm - 2 U.S. tablespoons of 3% hydrogen peroxide in a quart of water. The exact concentration is not critical. Zerotol's label recommendations amounts to 300 ppm. Peroxide can be used up to about 0.2% without much worry. Use higher concentrations for a root drench (root rot). Use 0.1%-ish or less for a repotting root dip and general use spraying.

I have a problem with a particular cultivar of acer palmatum that shows up pretty much every spring. It may be fungal/bacterial - I don't know, but it kills my air layers from the previous season. I have begun spraying last year's layers even though the buds are just swollen have not yet broken. I will spray every day that it isn't raining until the period this problem has always occurred has passed. Every few (say 3) is probably adequate.

I have a couple of plants of which their foliage browns if water is allowed to stand. I've found that spraying peroxide solution is a remedy. So I try not to wet the foliage on these plants, but its not always possible - when I err, I spray. I suppose I could water these with peroxide solution, I just don't have a watering can (garden hose and hand pump sprayers but no sprinkling can:(). I see no horticultural reason to forbid it. There is no toxicity accumulation. Peroxide breaks down into reactive oxygen and water.

Half a century or so ago, 3% hydrogen peroxide was the standard antiseptic in first aid kits and home medicine cabinets, so I am confident that it is as effective as copper for bacteria like pseudomonas syringae. I'm not sure that I've ever had it infect any of my trees though I did have an event a few years ago that damaged a couple of landscape maples that may have been. In all my reading, ps is described as an airborne bacterium that gains entry into tree tissues by being nucleation sites for ice crystals - in other words, an infection that happens during freezing weather. Hence the time to spray would be just before and during freezing weather - kind of ridiculous! So, to the extent that my understanding is correct, one really needs to spray something that leaves an active residue, copper or horticultural streptomyacin, periodically through the winter. There likely are other antibacterials of which I am unaware.

Long and rambling, but the best I can do to arm you with my 'knowledge'.

Thank you for your insight. If necrosis of the cambium has already occurred can any of these treatments have a systemic action to prevent further spread?
 
Thank you for your insight. If necrosis of the cambium has already occurred can any of these treatments have a systemic action to prevent further spread?
Generally speaking, no.

I have saved a couple of acer palmatums infected with nectria canker by cauterization --> burn/sear/char the affected area with a butane torch. Makes a lovely scar, but both trees are alive and thriving. Might be tough to do on bonsai.
 
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It is 'apply as needed', every day or anything in between.
It only affects what is on the plant surfaces at the time. I try to stay in the habit of removing affected foliage because it is just a source of spores and continuing infection; then spray.

I make a solution that is about 900 ppm - 2 U.S. tablespoons of 3% hydrogen peroxide in a quart of water. The exact concentration is not critical. Zerotol's label recommendations amounts to 300 ppm. Peroxide can be used up to about 0.2% without much worry. Use higher concentrations for a root drench (root rot). Use 0.1%-ish or less for a repotting root dip and general use spraying.

I have a problem with a particular cultivar of acer palmatum that shows up pretty much every spring. It may be fungal/bacterial - I don't know, but it kills my air layers from the previous season. I have begun spraying last year's layers even though the buds are just swollen have not yet broken. I will spray every day that it isn't raining until the period this problem has always occurred has passed. Every few (say 3) is probably adequate.

I have a couple of plants of which their foliage browns if water is allowed to stand. I've found that spraying peroxide solution is a remedy. So I try not to wet the foliage on these plants, but its not always possible - when I err, I spray. I suppose I could water these with peroxide solution, I just don't have a watering can (garden hose and hand pump sprayers but no sprinkling can:(). I see no horticultural reason to forbid it. There is no toxicity accumulation. Peroxide breaks down into reactive oxygen and water.

Half a century or so ago, 3% hydrogen peroxide was the standard antiseptic in first aid kits and home medicine cabinets, so I am confident that it is as effective as copper for bacteria like pseudomonas syringae. I'm not sure that I've ever had it infect any of my trees though I did have an event a few years ago that damaged a couple of landscape maples that may have been. In all my reading, ps is described as an airborne bacterium that gains entry into tree tissues by being nucleation sites for ice crystals - in other words, an infection that happens during freezing weather. Hence the time to spray would be just before and during freezing weather - kind of ridiculous! So, to the extent that my understanding is correct, one really needs to spray something that leaves an active residue, copper or horticultural streptomyacin, periodically through the winter. There likely are other antibacterials of which I am unaware.

Long and rambling, but the best I can do to arm you with my 'knowledge'.

How do you store your solution between uses? Can it be stored for any time in a standard misting bottle without just turning to water? In a dark cupboard maybe?
 
How do you store your solution between uses? Can it be stored for any time in a standard misting bottle without just turning to water? In a dark cupboard maybe?
I just mix it up a quart at a time and is used in a matter of minutes to three days, at most.
The 3% is in a dark plastic bottle kept out of the sun in my garage. Temperatures rarely ever get much above 77F/25C. I go through at least 2 ea 1 pint bottles a year, so the last of a bottle is about 6 months old (plus whatever the holding time is in the manufacture to retail sales chain).

Zerotol has peroxiacetic acid in it to maintain the 27% peroxide bottle concentration. My grocery store 3% stuff doesn't list anything extra on the label, so it may be degrading. AFAIK, the shelf life of 3% is many months, if not years. But even if it is months, a 300 ppm solution is known to be effective. I mix to a target 900 ppm dilution (2 US tablespoons to a quart of water). Thus I am confident that my solutions should be effective. So, it should be okay if the bottle has degraded to 1% peroxide.

Ignorance is bliss :cool: (I assume a lot)
And Bliss is a small town in southwest Idaho, btw


I should do better by running a few numbers. I know.
 
I just mix it up a quart at a time and is used in a matter of minutes to three days, at most.
The 3% is in a dark plastic bottle kept out of the sun in my garage. Temperatures rarely ever get much above 77F/25C. I go through at least 2 ea 1 pint bottles a year, so the last of a bottle is about 6 months old (plus whatever the holding time is in the manufacture to retail sales chain).

Zerotol has peroxiacetic acid in it to maintain the 27% peroxide bottle concentration. My grocery store 3% stuff doesn't list anything extra on the label, so it may be degrading. AFAIK, the shelf life of 3% is many months, if not years. But even if it is months, a 300 ppm solution is known to be effective. I mix to a target 900 ppm dilution (2 US tablespoons to a quart of water). Thus I am confident that my solutions should be effective. So, it should be okay if the bottle has degraded to 1% peroxide.

Ignorance is bliss :cool: (I assume a lot)
And Bliss is a small town in southwest Idaho, btw


I should do better by running a few numbers. I know.

Thanks, I’ve thought of a few things that I think it would make sense to use the stuff for, fairly frequently. It would be convenient to just always have a spray bottle sitting out on the benches to use but I figured I’d just be spraying water a lot of the time due to degradation. I just started using it last year on occasion, a small batch at a time.
I forgotten already half the things I though I should use it for but the main one was Saskatoon juniper rust.
(Local version of cedar Apple rust, maybe exactly the same thing but that’s what foresters call it here)

My thought is that frequent spraying of h202 on the juniper foliage during the period I know spore load is high would be a good idea.

Very oddly it hasn’t been much problem at all for me yet this rust. I collect trees heavily infected, cut it off when I see it and it just goes away and very rarely reappears. I have never collected a tree that didn’t have some or lots on it first year, couple years later in my yard gone. Very strange really, my yard is surrounded by hundreds of Saskatoon bushes, the rust blooms heavy on the berries every summer and the spore load in my yard is absolutely immense. I also water with a high volume mist head with a wide spray, foliage, everything, gets soaked with every watering. Never have used a fungicide of any sort ever on any tree.
?????!
Maybe I shouldn’t change anything, it’s a mystery but the h2o2 to oxidize the spores seems like an appropriate just in case. Just in case it’s just been random weird luck.
 
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