Chinese Quince

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So I was originally going to solicit opinions for this guy’s front, but after spinning it around in the garage for awhile I think I found it. It was just dug last year, so the excessively large pot was the best I could do at the time to fit an awkwardly shaped root mass into a pot. Appreciate your thoughts. I’m an excessive reader but rarely post my own trees.
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Leo in N E Illinois

The Professor
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What do you want in the end? Short? Tall? Fat trunk? Skinny Trunk?

If it were mine, I would move it to a larger ''grow out container'', probably an Anderson flat because I have them laying around. I would spend the next year or two or three working the root system so I could get rid of that awkward root, and pot the tree somewhat more upright. At the same time I would encourage as many as possible low on the trunk suckers to run wild. At the same time, any branch above the second bend in the trunk I would keep pruned to just one or two new internodes each year. Reason is to fatten up the lowest segment of trunk. Let those lowest branches run to 5 or more feet long.

Then after the root system is fixed. And it is possible to get it to set level in a pot no deeper than 3 inches, without having to mound the soil up. Then you can cut off all the branches to just a bare trunk and then start training the final set of branches.

That is what I would do on my bench. There are many options. That is the reason I opened with the questions about what you want. The trunk and nebari are the very first, and most important consideration for most deciduous trees. Work those two aspects first with little concern for branching. For most deciduous trees, the branches for the ''finished tree'' so to speak, will almost never be any of the branches that were present when work started on the nebari and trunk. Often final branching is not worked out until 5 or more years after trunk development begins.
 

Shibui

Imperial Masterpiece
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Good idea Brian. Adds taper and reduces the amount of lean on the tree.
The trunk and nebari are the very first, and most important consideration for most deciduous trees.
I note the word 'most' in there Leo. Chinese quince is one of those that I don't believe has great natural surface rooting so, although the roots on this one could be better I would put nebari a little further down the priority list for Chinese quinces.
In my experience these don't ramify very well. New shoots grow in any random direction and only a few buds sprout after pruning. I'm told that in Japan, nearly all Chinese Quinces on show are larger specimens to allow for this.
How does this species do under US conditions?
 

Brian Van Fleet

Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
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Good idea Brian. Adds taper and reduces the amount of lean on the tree.

I note the word 'most' in there Leo. Chinese quince is one of those that I don't believe has great natural surface rooting so, although the roots on this one could be better I would put nebari a little further down the priority list for Chinese quinces.
In my experience these don't ramify very well. New shoots grow in any random direction and only a few buds sprout after pruning. I'm told that in Japan, nearly all Chinese Quinces on show are larger specimens to allow for this.
How does this species do under US conditions?
I suppose they do about the same here as in Japan, trunking up slowly, even when left to grow 15’ tall, ramifying very slowly, and growing coarsely. Mine have not flowered in the 13 years I’ve grown them. I understand what you mean about the nebari, but when you see a CQ with good nebari, there’s almost nothing like it! Bonsai Today #46 has several great CQ articles. That’s when I fell for them.
 
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Didn’t pull any triggers on this guy for the year. Got to know it better. That 8’ leader might be encouraging some nice root growth lol. This thing grows crazy strong. Thanks to everyone in the forum encouraging more of them, this ones been fun.
 
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