Scratching my head with this Chinese quince
- Thread starter Cajunrider
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namnhi
Masterpiece
Uncle, I think I would leave it alone this year. Next Spring, chop it a little lower to the height you would like the trees to be. It should back bud like crazy... you can choose the one you like and wire to set the primary branches. I will be doing that to the one I still have... also a triple trunk.
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
Branches that are straight sticks need pruning, same as for almost all other species. Chop long straight shoots right back to just a couple of nodes to encourage more new shoots that will build up ramification.
Pretty sure this one is way taller than it needs to be. Probably allowed to grow free to get trunks to thicken which is fine but now needs a good ol chop to reduce height and add some taper. Look for some branches that can be used as extension to the trunks and prune just above the fork to put more taper and some extra bens in the trunks. New side shoots will become branches. More trimming will give even more shoots that will become ramification.
My Chinese quinces are frustrating. New shoots can grow in all directions. Just as likely to grow straight down or into the centre of the tree so not all new shoots are useful in building structure.
Pretty sure this one is way taller than it needs to be. Probably allowed to grow free to get trunks to thicken which is fine but now needs a good ol chop to reduce height and add some taper. Look for some branches that can be used as extension to the trunks and prune just above the fork to put more taper and some extra bens in the trunks. New side shoots will become branches. More trimming will give even more shoots that will become ramification.
My Chinese quinces are frustrating. New shoots can grow in all directions. Just as likely to grow straight down or into the centre of the tree so not all new shoots are useful in building structure.
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
Oh that will be a fun perfect. All the straight section areas will be pruned down at some point.
Cajunrider
Imperial Masterpiece
I think I will do the chopping this week! I believe now is the time if I want to see flowers on the newly formed branches next year. Chop now, wire in September on the new shoots for flower next year. I am also moving it from a basket to a terracotta pot to prepare for a bonsai pot in 2024. I know that is a compressed time frame but let's see how quickly we can develop quince. I am too old to wait and see big trunks out of this clump so let's get it to a more pleasing form pronto.
Dav4
Drop Branch Murphy
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Chinese quince and ume are both members of the rose family and they tend to grow ramrod straight canes. Cutting back to a few nodes, then wiring the new growth before it lignifies (this happens pretty quickly) is what I would suggest. If you wait until the fall, the new growth will likely be too rigid and brittle to create meaningful bends.
Cajunrider
Imperial Masterpiece
Thanks Dave. I will watch it carefully and wire earlier.
namnhi
Masterpiece
Uncle, I think it is ok to do the cut back now as mentioned by Shibui to a couple nodes from the trunk then wire the new grow before it lignified as Dav4 suggested. About the flower, am not so sure if it will... seems a bit soon but this tree is at least 7 years old now. I think moving it to a terra cotta is a good idea. I started to not like pond basket anymore.
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
I recall watching was it Ryan or one of his caliper on pruning these. Look at the new growth when you go to finally set your structure. You will see a single leaf...then beyond it a pair of leaves. Never cut below that pair. Or the branch can dieback.
Cajunrider
Imperial Masterpiece
The pond basket may not be suitable for us. In very hot weather and sunshine, we can't water the trees enough. The trees I have in baskets only thrive in one spot in my yard - under my porch with just morning sun light. Everywhere else I have them, the trees don't thrive. Last year I collected a bunch of Mayhaw and planted quite a few in baskets. They budded but then regressed and died. To save them, I avoided repotting and damaging young roots by burying the basket in my grow bed. I managed to save half the trees in baskets. Some of them still died.
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Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
I've found the same here so I don't use colanders or pond baskets now either.
Maiden69
Masterpiece
I was having that problem with my luma and my liquidambar... a shallow saucer solved the problem. Both trees would wilt between watering's (9am-3pm). once the saucer was added they started pushing growth like crazy. I still do that with my Root Pouch trees that are not in-ground, except with my JBP, they do good without them. I have since moved away from pond baskets, the pouches maintain moisture way better and offer the same results. I have 10 medium (6") brand new colanders that I bought for the JBP... maybe I will experiment with them again if I can build an ebb and flow bench.
Cajunrider
Imperial Masterpiece
Before
After
Further pruning will depend on where I find the buds.
After
Further pruning will depend on where I find the buds.
namnhi
Masterpiece
Glad to see you posting again Uncle. Grand kids being naughty and hidden Grandpa's phone the last 10 days.
Cajunrider
Imperial Masterpiece
It took almost a month but there are buds now. Pictures coming soon.
roberthu
Chumono
Does Chinese Quince air layer easily? If yes, then that might be an option to save some of the straight portion.
vp999
Omono
That's your only choice.
namnhi
Masterpiece
they do but the callus is huge so if the gap is not big enough it will bridge and you have to start over again. I have many air layers that I will most likely cut down next Spring.
pandacular
Omono
Now that you've chopped it should make a much better head scratcher. Though personally, I would probably craft something out of the pruned branches rather than use the tree, but to each their own.
Cajunrider
Imperial Masterpiece
I did. The branches were taken as cuttings although they are suffering a bit under the heat.
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