How should I chop this ilex?

Very well then. I am going to attempt the ground layer. I wonder if I can do it during the second growing season here. Where I live the second growing season is September and November. 2 short months enough for decent roots or should I wait until spring. So far this tree seems bulletproof. It took the hurricanes and being in shallow pot without much watering other than rain for months. It is about as tough as Cajuns.
Cajuns, Hillbillies, Hicks and Rednecks ALL have their tough guys.

I LOVE speaking English to those whose FIRST language is that Creole... cool experience!

I’ve met real crazy cajuns.. the first Chef I had as a teacher was a lil’ cajun dude.. taught me about Grape soda....
 
Another question for BNutters: Once I ground layer this tree, is it the appropriate time to take it out of the current grow box and put in a training pot? I am satisfied with the size of the trunk. I just wonder if the grow box is still better for the nebari development.
 
I am not 100 percent sure how to answer..

But I DO know that.

...is a true statement.

🤣
So you are hemming and hawing just like I am?
I think I am going to keep it in grow box for another year. Then I'll put it in a bonsai training pot. I want to give it a little more prominent spot among all the trees I have.
 
Hope this works well for you. That's going to be a really nice trunk line.

I did a ground layer on a smaller Zelkova in late June, and the roots responded within a few weeks.
 
Very well then. I am going to attempt the ground layer. I wonder if I can do it during the second growing season here. Where I live the second growing season is September and November. 2 short months enough for decent roots or should I wait until spring? So far this tree seems bulletproof. It took the hurricanes and being in shallow pot without much watering other than rain for months. It is about as tough as Cajuns.
I just noticed that I missed October! This is proof that I am senile! :D
 
Quick questions: Can I start pruning the root down below by cutting them off a little bit at a time? Would that put pressure on the tree to grow more roots above at the ground layer? I figure I can trimmed off about 3" on the two long sides. That would reduce the current root mass down below about 30%. The tree is very healthy I don't think it would cause any problem.
 
Quick questions: Can I start pruning the root down below by cutting them off a little bit at a time? Would that put pressure on the tree to grow more roots above at the ground layer? I figure I can trimmed off about 3" on the two long sides. That would reduce the current root mass down below about 30%. The tree is very healthy I don't think it would cause any problem.
It won't directly make a difference, and indirectly might slow it down.

Think horticulture. When you create a layer and sever the flow of auxins down to the base of the trunk and the roots, it is the mass of foliage (and specifically the growing tips of the branches) that is creating that auxin flow. The way to get roots to form faster is to allow the tree to grow strong foliage before you conduct the layer. But there also comes a point where more auxin isn't going to be more effective. Once you reach that saturation point, the tree is being triggered to grow roots at the girdle and more auxin (either from a natural or artificial source) isn't going to accelerate things.

The original roots in this case are primarily there to provide water for the foliage. If you start reducing the existing roots, you may stress your foliage or cause it to crash. It would be a little like turning your tree into a big cutting. The value of an air-layer is to keep the roots providing water, so that the foliage remains strong and continues to pump out auxins. (The roots will also trigger bud development below the girdle, but that isn't really a concern in the case of a ground layer).
 
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It won't directly make a difference, and indirectly might slow it down.

Think horticulture. When you create a layer and sever the flow of auxins down to the base of the trunk and the roots, it is the mass of foliage (and specifically the growing tips of the branches) that is creating that auxin flow. The way to get roots to form faster is to allow the tree to grow strong foliage before you conduct the layer. But there also comes a point where more auxin isn't going to be more effective. Once you reach that saturation point, the tree is being triggered to grow roots at the girdle and more auxin (either from a natural or artificial source) isn't going to accelerate things.

The roots in this case are primarily there to provide water for the foliage. If you start reducing the existing roots, you may stress your foliage or cause it to crash. It would be a little like turning your tree into a big cutting. The value of an air-layer is to keep the roots providing water, so that the foliage remains strong and continues to pump out auxins. (The roots will also trigger bud development below the girdle, but that isn't really a concern in the case of a ground layer).
Makes sense. I should have thought about it more before asking. Thanks
 
Makes sense. I should have thought about it more before asking. Thanks
That sounded strangely like an apology for asking for advice :) No apology needed, and sometimes we all suffer from "I'm pretty sure I already knew that" syndrome :)

Think of it as a great archive for people who come to this site who DIDN'T already know that!
 
Did you take any pictures of the roots you got from the ground layer?

I feel like I was just hanging off a cliff, and suddenly found myself safely on the ground with no idea how I got there!
I didn’t because the ground layer only formed roots 1/3rd of the way. I ended up trimming off quite a bit of roots and moving it to a deeper pot. I also redid the ground layer. The tree didn’t seem affected and continues to thrive. I will be checking the ground layer early summer.
 
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