Fungal infection?

[sciguy1872]

Hi. I have a Ficus microcarpa and sent some pictures to my relatives--I think I saw some green on the trunk, the dark green leaves are maybe dry (not sure--I think they feel different than the light-green ones), but the leaves are definitely not brittle. The last photo shows the reflective nature of the tree when the bonsai has a red light instead of a white light. Thanks.

 

[Shibui]

I can't feel the leaves but the dark green leaves I can see in the photos look good. I'd be more worried about the yellow leaves at the tip of the branches. Yellowish new leaves usually indicates nutrient deficiency, most likely nitrogen. How often do you fertilise and what with?
I can see the pot sits in a tray. Does the pot ever sit in a pool of water?
Light can be another factor with indoor bonsai. How much light does your tree get? Do you use a grow light to supplement low indoor light?

It would also help to know where you are as day length, temp and humidity vary a lot around the world and we have different season between north and southern hemisphere. Adding a location to your profile means others can make allowance for season and local weather patterns when giving advice.

 

[rockm]

Hi. I have a Ficus microcarpa and sent some pictures to my relatives--I think I saw some green on the trunk, the dark green leaves are maybe dry (not sure--I think they feel different than the light-green ones), but the leaves are definitely not brittle. The last photo shows the reflective nature of the tree when the bonsai has a red light instead of a white light. Thanks.

Are you talking about the white spots on the bark? If so, those are normal for ficus. They're lenticels, pores for exchanging oxygen and Co2.

The leaves look fine to me. Ficus are notorious for dropping leaves when they're moved to different locations as they try to readjust to local conditions (lower light, humidity, etc).

Indoor conditions are harsh for bonsai even if they're "indoor" species (species that can tolerate to some extent, indoor hardships like low light and humidity). If you live in an area that's frost free and have a location outdoors, the tree would be much better outside for the spring and summer months.

 

[sciguy1872]

I can't feel the leaves but the dark green leaves I can see in the photos look good. I'd be more worried about the yellow leaves at the tip of the branches. Yellowish new leaves usually indicates nutrient deficiency, most likely nitrogen. How often do you fertilise and what with?
I can see the pot sits in a tray. Does the pot ever sit in a pool of water?
Light can be another factor with indoor bonsai. How much light does your tree get? Do you use a grow light to supplement low indoor light?

It would also help to know where you are as day length, temp and humidity vary a lot around the world and we have different season between north and southern hemisphere. Adding a location to your profile means others can make allowance for season and local weather patterns when giving advice.

Hi--thanks for your reply. I use SuperThrive Bonsai-Pro bought from Amazon; it has a 7-9-5 ratio. The directions say to quarter teaspoon with a gallon of water. In the winter can I use the regular amount, now that I have a grow light and so metabolism should be regular? The grow light was also purchased from Amazon and has settings for 3, 6, 12 hours of light, which also has varying degrees of brightness. The light can project red light for seeds, white light, and white light with a couple of red LED's. I always use the 12 hour setting along with the white and red light because the instructions stated this configuration is supposed to be for growth. The directions for the bonsai said to water every other day--the tray catches the runoff water. I didn't think that standing water would be good because then the extra water still in the soil (I water twice, allowing for soil absorption between) wouldn't be able to drain and would cause root rot.
Sorry about the location miss in the original post, but I am in Missouri, USA and so it's the end of Spring/early Summer. Thanks again.

 

[sciguy1872]

Are you talking about the white spots on the bark? If so, those are normal for ficus. They're lenticels, pores for exchanging oxygen and Co2.

The leaves look fine to me. Ficus are notorious for dropping leaves when they're moved to different locations as they try to readjust to local conditions (lower light, humidity, etc).

Indoor conditions are harsh for bonsai even if they're "indoor" species (species that can tolerate to some extent, indoor hardships like low light and humidity). If you live in an area that's frost free and have a location outdoors, the tree would be much better outside for the spring and summer months.

Hi--thanks for your reply. I read from different websites that Ficus bonsai drop leaves over time, but not all at once, too; strange, but my Ficus has never dropped leaves, and I've had it since March 2024.
I thought bark on a tree was like our skin--just stuff to keep away bacteria and other bad stuff. I also thought the leaves were responsible for oxygen and CO2 exchange through their stomata features (but they say to still mist, seems like it would block the exchange).

 

[rockm]

Hi--thanks for your reply. I read from different websites that Ficus bonsai drop leaves over time, but not all at once, too; strange, but my Ficus has never dropped leaves, and I've had it since March 2024.
I thought bark on a tree was like our skin--just stuff to keep away bacteria and other bad stuff. I also thought the leaves were responsible for oxygen and CO2 exchange through their stomata features (but they say to still mist, seems like it would block the exchange).

Misting bonsai is pretty useless and can set it up for bad things. Don’t mist

 

[sciguy1872]

Thanks

 

[Shibui]

I use SuperThrive Bonsai-Pro bought from Amazon; it has a 7-9-5 ratio. The directions say to quarter teaspoon with a gallon of water. In the winter can I use the regular amount, now that I have a grow light and so metabolism should be regular?

I see that Superthrive is basically seaweed extract and there is plenty of controversy about it's effectiveness as a fertiliser. Down here Seaweed extract cannot be sold as fertiliser as it has variable amounts of nutrient depending on the source of the seaweed, processing and time of year. 7.9.5 is also very low N which is the element that contributes most to green leaves.
All your other factors sound good. maybe try an alternative fertiliser for a while. Preferably one with real nutrient.

Stress is none major factor that causes leaf drop - Too dry, too wet, too cold, too how, not enough sun, etc. Another factor that causes leaf drop is natural old age. Individual leaves have a finite lifespan of 1-3 years. Older leaves are lower on the stems because they opened first. If only lower leaves have fallen maybe that's a possible cause?

The directions for the bonsai said to water every other day--the tray catches the runoff water. I didn't think that standing water would be good because then the extra water still in the soil (I water twice, allowing for soil absorption between) wouldn't be able to drain and would cause root rot.

Directions that state every other day are only very general guidelines. Does not allow for local conditions, time of year, temperature, wind, etc, etc. Relying on calendar to water will only cause problems. Definitely water according to soil moisture. Check with a finger or keep a stick in the soil to check soil moisture. If soil is damp on second day (or third) do not water! Only water when the soil gets close to dry. At some times of year your tree might go for a week without additional water. Other times you may need to water every day or sometimes even more. Most Ficus sp are quite happy to have a dry period between wet. Constantly wet soil definitely causes problems with root rot and probably responsible for most indoor plant deaths. That's why I mentioned the tray but you seem to already know not to let the pot sit in water. Now need to water only when soil requires more water.

 

[sciguy1872]

Hi--thanks for your reply. I use SuperThrive Bonsai-Pro bought from Amazon; it has a 7-9-5 ratio. The directions say to quarter teaspoon with a gallon of water. In the winter can I use the regular amount, now that I have a grow light and so metabolism should be regular? The grow light was also purchased from Amazon and has settings for 3, 6, 12 hours of light, which also has varying degrees of brightness. The light can project red light for seeds, white light, and white light with a couple of red LED's. I always use the 12 hour setting along with the white and red light because the instructions stated this configuration is supposed to be for growth. The directions for the bonsai said to water every other day--the tray catches the runoff water. I didn't think that standing water would be good because then the extra water still in the soil (I water twice, allowing for soil absorption between) wouldn't be able to drain and would cause root rot.
Sorry about the location miss in the original post, but I am in Missouri, USA and so it's the end of Spring/early Summer.

I see that Superthrive is basically seaweed extract and there is plenty of controversy about it's effectiveness as a fertiliser. Down here Seaweed extract cannot be sold as fertiliser as it has variable amounts of nutrient depending on the source of the seaweed, processing and time of year. 7.9.5 is also very low N which is the element that contributes most to green leaves.
All your other factors sound good. maybe try an alternative fertiliser for a while. Preferably one with real nutrient.

Stress is none major factor that causes leaf drop - Too dry, too wet, too cold, too how, not enough sun, etc. Another factor that causes leaf drop is natural old age. Individual leaves have a finite lifespan of 1-3 years. Older leaves are lower on the stems because they opened first. If only lower leaves have fallen maybe that's a possible cause?


Directions that state every other day are only very general guidelines. Does not allow for local conditions, time of year, temperature, wind, etc, etc. Relying on calendar to water will only cause problems. Definitely water according to soil moisture. Check with a finger or keep a stick in the soil to check soil moisture. If soil is damp on second day (or third) do not water! Only water when the soil gets close to dry. At some times of year your tree might go for a week without additional water. Other times you may need to water every day or sometimes even more. Most Ficus sp are quite happy to have a dry period between wet. Constantly wet soil definitely causes problems with root rot and probably responsible for most indoor plant deaths. That's why I mentioned the tray but you seem to already know not to let the pot sit in water. Now need to water only when soil requires more water.

Thanks for the great reply. Here's a fertilizer that has a high nitrogen content; I'm attaching the screenshot and wondering what you think of it. The directions call for 1tsp for 8 cups of water, for application every other watering cycle--do you think I can mix 0.5tsp for 8 cups to make it simpler for myself so that I can use the fertilizer whenever I water?

 

[Shibui]

3.1.2 is a much better nutrient ratio for growth. I don't know that particular brand because it's not available here but it sounds good.
Better to stick to the directions for the product. Someone far more knowledgeable than either of us set those guidelines for a reason.
Most fert can be used at full strength more often but sometimes residues build up in the soil and cause problems. Watering with plain water in between fert application helps wash away any unused fertiliser and any accumulated waste products which can build up to toxic levels in some cases and, especially indoor plants where we tend to use less water each time to save clean up.
If 8 cups of mixed fert is too much for a single use you could make 4 cups with 1/2 tsp. Should be safe to use it for several waterings then use plain water for a few cycles when the fert is finished to flush the soil.

 

[sciguy1872]

Thanks for your help. I didn't water because the soil is still moist, and will follow the directions for the fertilizer, as well as flushing away extra chemicals.

 

[sciguy1872]

I can't feel the leaves but the dark green leaves I can see in the photos look good. I'd be more worried about the yellow leaves at the tip of the branches. Yellowish new leaves usually indicates nutrient deficiency, most likely nitrogen. How often do you fertilise and what with?
I can see the pot sits in a tray. Does the pot ever sit in a pool of water?
Light can be another factor with indoor bonsai. How much light does your tree get? Do you use a grow light to supplement low indoor light?

It would also help to know where you are as day length, temp and humidity vary a lot around the world and we have different season between north and southern hemisphere. Adding a location to your profile means others can make allowance for season and local weather patterns when giving advice.

Hi. I was wondering what you thought of the leaves' color now--does it look like I'm watering too much? The directions on the container of Professional Bonsai Fertilizer say to add two teaspoons for 8 cups of water, and to use the fert/water mixture every other watering. I use distilled water in between. It's a 3.1.2 ratio.

 

[sciguy1872]

Hi. I was wondering what you thought of the leaves' color now--does it look like I'm watering too much? The directions on the container of Professional Bonsai Fertilizer say to add two teaspoons for 8 cups of water, and to use the fert/water mixture every other watering. I use distilled water in between. It's a 3.1.2 ratio.

 

[Shibui]

Seems to be some improvement in new leaf colour. Keep up with the fertiliser program until all new leaves are a healthy green as they open up.
I can't see any sign of over watering but Ficus often don't show signs until root rot is well established. Check soil moisture before deciding to add water. Ficus are tough and can go without water longer than many other species so you can usually afford to let them get a bit drier than many other plants before watering again.

 

[sciguy1872]

Seems to be some improvement in new leaf colour. Keep up with the fertiliser program until all new leaves are a healthy green as they open up.
I can't see any sign of over watering but Ficus often don't show signs until root rot is well established. Check soil moisture before deciding to add water. Ficus are tough and can go without water longer than many other species so you can usually afford to let them get a bit drier than many other plants before watering again.

Thanks for the good info

 

[sciguy1872]

3.1.2 is a much better nutrient ratio for growth. I don't know that particular brand because it's not available here but it sounds good.
Better to stick to the directions for the product. Someone far more knowledgeable than either of us set those guidelines for a reason.
Most fert can be used at full strength more often but sometimes residues build up in the soil and cause problems. Watering with plain water in between fert application helps wash away any unused fertiliser and any accumulated waste products which can build up to toxic levels in some cases and, especially indoor plants where we tend to use less water each time to save clean up.
If 8 cups of mixed fert is too much for a single use you could make 4 cups with 1/2 tsp. Should be safe to use it for several waterings then use plain water for a few cycles when the fert is finished to flush the soil.

Hi. Just a quick question: since the directions on the container of Professional Bonsai Fertilizer state to add 2 tsp of fert with 8 cups of water, if I'm halving it, I just mix 1 tsp of fert per 4 cups water, right?

 

[Shibui]

since the directions on the container of Professional Bonsai Fertilizer state to add 2 tsp of fert with 8 cups of water, if I'm halving it, I just mix 1 tsp of fert per 4 cups water, right?

Correct!
That still gives you the same STRENGTH but only half the quantity. 1/2 tsp in 2 cups will also be the same strength.
You should be able to use that much in a week?
If you store diluted fert too long it tends to grow algae and other nasties so best to just mix enough to last a few days or a week and get rid of any leftover. Maybe you have other plants that would like some yummy fertiliser? Just tell them to pretend they are bonsai and all will be well.

 

[sciguy1872]

Correct!
That still gives you the same STRENGTH but only half the quantity. 1/2 tsp in 2 cups will also be the same strength.
You should be able to use that much in a week?
If you store diluted fert too long it tends to grow algae and other nasties so best to just mix enough to last a few days or a week and get rid of any leftover. Maybe you have other plants that would like some yummy fertiliser? Just tell them to pretend they are bonsai and all will be well.

Hi. I was wondering how these leaves look to you? I have been using the Bonsai Pro/water mix for awhile now. I think it has a lot of yellow (you wrote that is a sign of nutrient deficiency); I was told on another forum that the leaves would green-up. Thanks.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Look like decent new leaves on a Ficus. Just like those on the museum trees we constantly have to prune back!

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[sciguy1872]

Look like decent new leaves on a Ficus. Just like those on the museum trees we constantly have to prune back!

Cheers
DSD sends

Hi DSD--thanks for the like. Shibui, do you agree that the leaves look good? In the other forum they told me that leaves grow darker green as they mature.