Chinese Elm Hardwood Cuttings

[MACH5]

Anyone has any experience, advice or tips taking harwood cuttings on Chinese elms. I was told that even thicker ones (1/2" or perhaps more) can root easily? I was gifted a while ago a tree that I don't like at all but thinking of chopping it all up and recomposing the pieces into a small forest.


Thanks guys!
M5

 

[Paulpash]

Yes, they are very easy I cut mine into various sizes (most took), found a semi shady spot and just trenched them in. I've rooted inch thick stems. Make sure it's sheltered from winds and just make sure they're kept well watered - I put a bark mulch on the soil. I dug them up a year later and either resited them to grow on or put them in pots for shohin trees.

 

[River's Edge]

Yes, they are very easy I cut mine into various sizes (most took), found a semi shady spot and just trenched them in. I've rooted inch thick stems. Make sure it's sheltered from winds and just make sure they're kept well watered - I put a bark mulch on the soil. I dug them up a year later and either resited them to grow on or put them in pots for shohin trees.

Agreed, They are easy. I time mine for just as buds are swelling, tinge of green. Here are some taken from smaller branches of my Hokkaido Elm this morning. Tray in the sunny window. Layered Pumice, coarse on bottom, Medium next, fine then a mix of fine pumice and sand on the top. Will use a light solution of Alaskan fish fertilizer weekly after the leaves begin to open. Here is a picture of the cuttings. They say patience is a virtue

 

[MACH5]

Yes, they are very easy I cut mine into various sizes (most took), found a semi shady spot and just trenched them in. I've rooted inch thick stems. Make sure it's sheltered from winds and just make sure they're kept well watered - I put a bark mulch on the soil. I dug them up a year later and either resited them to grow on or put them in pots for shohin trees.

Agreed, They are easy. I time mine for just as buds are swelling, tinge of green. Here are some taken from smaller branches of my Hokkaido Elm this morning. Tray in the sunny window. Layered Pumice, coarse on bottom, Medium next, fine then a mix of fine pumice and sand on the top. Will use a light solution of Alaskan fish fertilizer weekly after the leaves begin to open. Here is a picture of the cuttings. They say patience is a virtue

Great! Thank you both!

 

[quietobserver]

Agreed, They are easy. I time mine for just as buds are swelling, tinge of green. Here are some taken from smaller branches of my Hokkaido Elm this morning. Tray in the sunny window. Layered Pumice, coarse on bottom, Medium next, fine then a mix of fine pumice and sand on the top. Will use a light solution of Alaskan fish fertilizer weekly after the leaves begin to open. Here is a picture of the cuttings. They say patience is a virtue

Curious what % you expect to strike indoors? Or are they moved outside eventually. I’ve always thought about keeping cuttings indoors in the humidity with my tropicals but never followed through.

 

[theone420]

did one that was about 1/2 inch it took pretty easy. I still have a clump in a pot trying to root that is about 2" at the base. It has been there 3 months through our winter(not really winterish). it is still green at the tips and the buds are swelling so I am hoping it works.

I did a Tamarisk hardwood over 2" and it is growing like crazy!

 

[River's Edge]

Curious what % you expect to strike indoors? Or are they moved outside eventually. I’ve always thought about keeping cuttings indoors in the humidity with my tropicals but never followed through.

Only indoors until it is safe to put them in the unheated greenhouse and then transfer to the great outdoors.

 

[River's Edge]

Only indoors until it is safe to put them in the unheated greenhouse and then transfer to the great outdoors.

I have done all my cuttings and seedlings indoors to begin with. I like the consistent temperature and humidity control. The den stays 21 C during the day and 18C at night. Root growth loves that consistent warmth. As well the sunlight in a south facing window is strong enough without being to strong , And no drying winds as I keep away from air vents and use a spray mist bottle whenever i pass by the area. The pumice turns color as a reminder if drying out
The key is to be able to move them out for the stronger sun when needed. Otherwise the seedlings in particular get too leggy.
It also adds up to two months to the growing season so the seeds and cuttings are that much further along before winter.

 

[KiwiPlantGuy]

Anyone has any experience, advice or tips taking harwood cuttings on Chinese elms. I was told that even thicker ones (1/2" or perhaps more) can root easily? I was gifted a while ago a tree that I don't like at all but thinking of chopping it all up and recomposing the pieces into a small forest.


Thanks guys!
M5

Hi Mach5,
Root cuttings work just as easy too. In case you want to totally mutilate your tree .
That way you can get some good movement low down.
Good luck and bury by a few inches so your trunk cuttings don’t dry out
Charles

 

[defra]

I am going to cut off the top of my little zelkova and will try to root it !
Thnx for reminding me at this

 

[Tieball]

Hi Mach5,
Root cuttings work just as easy too. In case you want to totally mutilate your tree .

Root cuttings. I generally understand this but have a basic question. Can any length of root be exposed above the ground for the start of the tree? Or. Something else?

 

[defra]

Root cuttings. I generally understand this but have a basic question. Can any length of root be exposed above the ground for the start of the tree? Or. Something else?

In my experience with crabaple root cuttings yes as long as the roots in the soil have the fine feeders.
also keep them protected from the sun and drying winds for a few weeks because the roots need to adjust their bark due to the light intensity and heat etc because before they were below the surface

One of the downside with root cuttings from larger roots is that you start with inversed taper sometimes

 

[Paulpash]

Agreed, They are easy. I time mine for just as buds are swelling, tinge of green. Here are some taken from smaller branches of my Hokkaido Elm this morning. Tray in the sunny window. Layered Pumice, coarse on bottom, Medium next, fine then a mix of fine pumice and sand on the top. Will use a light solution of Alaskan fish fertilizer weekly after the leaves begin to open. Here is a picture of the cuttings. They say patience is a virtue

My approach wasn't anywhere near as precise as Riversedgebonsai - literally pushed em into the soil and left them be for a year. I think I've done corkies too in the past with similar results - they are like willow and tamarisk

 

[Bonsai Nut]

I have been successful with pretty big cuttings - up to about pencil-sized. I used rooting hormone, but to be honest I'm not sure it's necessary since I have done some smaller cuttings without rooting hormone and get close to 100% success.

I just stick them in standard bonsai soil and provide protection until the seedling starts pushing new leaves. By "protection" it can be as simple as a piece of plastic wrap over the top of a black nursery pot, or by using a fancier setup with a clear plastic domed lid. Key is to not let the foliage dry out. They need bright indirect sun, too - don't put them in shade.

 

[River's Edge]

My approach wasn't anywhere near as precise as Riversedgebonsai - literally pushed em into the soil and left them be for a year. I think I've done corkies too in the past with similar results - they are like willow and tamarisk

I must confess that i have often taken juniper cuttings and stuck them in the pot or grow bed. Ignored them for a year or two and potted them up. I do take more care when it is a single specimen, harder to procure species. As in this case, a cork bark elm. Or if i have very limited stock.

 

[Nicholas Box]

Anyone has any experience, advice or tips taking harwood cuttings on Chinese elms. I was told that even thicker ones (1/2" or perhaps more) can root easily? I was gifted a while ago a tree that I don't like at all but thinking of chopping it all up and recomposing the pieces into a small forest.


Thanks guys!
M5

IMO you can literally do whatever you want and have a very high chance of these elms surviving. I think they and the cockroaches might be all that is left one day.

As an experiment I took a 4 foot branch anywhere from 1-2 inches in diameter and cut it into 4 inch sections. To date everything rooted and leafed out. I don't understand these trees but I really like um!

 

[Fishtank307]

I'd like to take some cuttings from a field elm.. Would it be just as easy as with chinese elm? And when would be the best time?

 

[Nicholas Box]

I'd like to take some cuttings from a field elm.. Would it be just as easy as with chinese elm? And when would be the best time?

Best time? I think Spring.

However, my experiment was in July.

 

[MACH5]

IMO you can literally do whatever you want and have a very high chance of these elms surviving. I think they and the cockroaches might be all that is left one day.

As an experiment I took a 4 foot branch anywhere from 1-2 inches in diameter and cut it into 4 inch sections. To date everything rooted and leafed out. I don't understand these trees but I really like um!

Thank you Nicholas. That's what I keep hearing and seems many here with same experience. It saves me the trouble of resorting to air layering.

 

[Nicholas Box]

Thank you Nicholas. That's what I keep hearing and seems many here with same experience. It saves me the trouble of resorting to air layering.

Welcome, I did air layer experiments on an elm in our yard as well. Seemed to work just as easily. Do what yah feel.