Cold Damage, Should I defoliate?

CBarnard

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I'm wondering and hoping you can give some advise. I've got a Ficus Benjamina, very small, maybe 3-4 years old, 12" tall, 1/2" trunk. Its been very healthy growing indoors with grow light and natural light when possible, typically 70F. Fertilized weekly with specific ficus bonsai fertilizer from Green24, usually applied foliarly. Recently I walked the tree from my office, to my car, and brought into the house, where it was very briefly exposed to 20 degrees F (maybe 10 minutes including time in the car) which has damaged the leaves. It has been very healthy and vigorous until this damage. I don't believe the roots froze since the pot is a fairly thick (1/2") glazed ceramic and should have retained enough heat. Most of the larger leaves have some kind of "cellular collapse", where the veins are more visible, with an embossed look. The smaller leaves have browned. All the leaves have lighted in color. Terminal buds appear dried, or drying. I'm wondering if I should defoliate and allow the tree to refresh, or if the leaves should remain as long as the tree allows. Any advice is GREATLY appreciated as this tree has become my favorite over the past year.

Thank you in advance!
Ficus 1.jpgFicus 5.jpgFicus 4.jpgFicus 3.jpg
 

MHBonsai

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I can't imagine that this kind of activity in the cold would really damage a benjamina. I transported a big one in the back of a pickup truck once in freezing temperatures and it didn't really change leaf quality or the growing tips. Every situation is different of course, but these are pretty tough in my experience.

How is your watering schedule? It's tough to see w/ these photos but it might just be getting too dry?
 

CBarnard

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Thank you all for the advice, and any more to come!

MHBonsai, I "dunk" water 1-2 times a week, soaking 1-2 mins or until no bubble rise. Mist throughout the day after foliage and bark have dried. Believe it or not I use Deer-park spring water (unadded electrolytes, and not distilled). I don’t trust Baltimore tap water, and it’s at work so no place to collect rain water in the office, not that Baltimore rain water would be any better ha.

Soil is Hoffman; Busch-league maybe, but the tree has been doing extremely well with the mix and it seems to hold moisture well, but not TOO well. Re-potted 5 months ago and the tree didn’t even hiccup. I hated to hole saw the antique dragon pot, but I like it, got it for $10 and don't worry about commercial value, so the pot has good bottom drainage.

Fertilizer is “Ficus Bonsai” by Green24 NPK: 3.6 - 1.7 - 2.4 diluted and applied foliarly once a week, as directed.

This has been the regular schedule for months with no change in fertilizing, lighting, or location other than taking it home during weekends, which has never been a problem and I keep it on the same schedule there. The tree, up until now, has been doing better than I could have asked it to.

I understand an infinite number of things can cause harm to a plant, and while its possibly some other issue, I can’t think of anything other than that one cold transport is the culprit, and it was COLD! I’m saying 20F as an estimate, some reported 11F with a 1F wind factor. Walked to the car: 3 Mins, drive to work: 5 mins (don’t judge it was COLD), walked to the building: 3 mins. So maybe 11 minutes it was exposed. The effect was nearly immediate, so Occam’s razor right?

My thoughts on defoliating it were: If leaves are dying, they invite further harm. They’ll use up energy stores for continued (but less effective) photosynthesis and healing rather than budding new ones. Removing them could affect the hormones and spur new healthier growth. BUT, such a small tree may not have the starch reserves to bound back from complete stripping.

I’m new to the art and don’t really know what I’m talking about, really just repeating what I’ve read/heard. So I’m turning to the community for wisdom. So far leaving it alone has been the suggestion. I’m very curious to see how long it will take to show signs of rebound, or death…
 

Forsoothe!

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Don't defoliate. The buds in the axils need to mature and expand when ready and the petiole in-place protects them. Next time, move it around in a cardboard box, and expose it to the same temperature extremes as you do for yourself in shirtsleeves.
 

amcoffeegirl

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I used to have ficus at work with the only light being from the overhead fixtures. No window.
I would never bring them home. If they were there in late November they stayed until mid March. I have damaged tropical plants before doing the same thing. If I had to transport a plant in mid winter I would warm up the car first and put the plant inside a cardboard box or paper bag. Hopefully it will recover.
I am unfamiliar with your soil choice. Is it a potting soil?
The very first advice I got as a new grower was- put it in a free draining mix.
I listened and did as instructed.
Most of the other lessons took a long time to sink in but that one I did right away.
Wait until late spring to do this.
Lava rock, expanded clay, and pine bark is my go to mix for my ficus. I don’t fertilize much in winter except that I use osmocote all year. In summer I feed miracle grow as well.
This year I may try some sumo cakes???
If it doesn’t pull through or even if it does- try again- grab a couple more trees and keep trying.
 

CBarnard

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Thank you Forsoothe. Protection makes sense. I’m happy to allow the tree to shed them when it feels like it, just wondered if that would weaken the tree more, leave it more susceptible to disease, or inhibit rebounding. It seems like it’s best to just let it be.

AMCoffeeGirl, Hoffman’s is a premixed bonsai soil of expanded shale, sand pebble, pine bark, and turface. It’s not terribly expensive on a small scale and the few trees I have in it, seem to like it. Added bonus that a local nursery keeps it in stock so I don’t have to order anything.

I’ve got 6 more ficus like the one above sold as house plants waiting to put in training pots. Still new so I’m messing around with what’s on sale and looks healthy. This one is just my favorite, was small enough for the little pot, and has been doing so well until I froze it ha.

To be clear, I am not in favor of defoliating, and especially on a weakened tree. I am glad to hear it isn’t necessary. Based on ya’lls comments here, and a couple emails, I will just water enough to keep from drying out, keep it stationary and warm, and hold off on anymore fertilizer until it has well established new growth.

And yes, after it happen I kicked myself for taking it back Monday, and especially unprotected. It’ll be indoors until spring, if it pulls through.
 

CBarnard

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5 days since shock. Came in today and all leaves are now dried to a crisp. Some articles I've read indicate rebound, if possible, may not be visible for 6 weeks. No one told me I had to be come a Zen monk in order to handle bonsai haha. Thoughts on keeping in clear container to maintain moisture on dominant buds and axils or misting the bark?
 

CBarnard

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***UPDATE*** 25 days since cold exposure. The tree has 5 new shoots, and what looks like an aerial root. Unexpectedly they are coming from the main trunk. None of the axilliary buds seemed to survive. The older branches appear to be dead/dying at tips, but a scratch test on one upper branch indicates a healthy, or at least surviving, cambiam down ~3/4 length of all but the apex branches. New growth is slow; slower than the vigor before the cold exposure. Considering beginning to fertilize again (any advice on that?).

Water regiment has decreased drastically since there is no leaves/transpiration. Worried about stagnation/mold since the soil remains moist for so long without fresh water (up to a 7-8 days before "drying out"). Considering bottom heat to aid in evaporation (any advice on that?).
 

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Forsoothe!

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Why are you rushing the process? You are inviting a problem with foliage leafing out prematurely which will serve no great purpose and you're not gaining much of an advantage on the growing season. You have interrupted the yearly growing cycle of the plant and should be happy just to have the plant survive it at all, much less zooming back into service. An important part of growing up is growing up! Bud development is a necessary part of leafing out and flowering, etc., and while your rushing the process may not hinder it by rushing the process, it won't help it. 25 days of rest is peanuts in the grand scheme of things, and the bud development that would have un-noticably taken place while the old leaves petered-out has been short-cut which probably has extended the ordinary bud development time required because sudden loss of all leaves signals an emergency, "Mayday, Mayday, expand more secondary buds as primaries...".

This IS the time of year when normal quiescent periods are being satisfied anyway, and photo-periods are increasing, and soils would be warming, and buds would begin to develope more fully, but the amount of time required varies widely and what's natural for figs in their native equatorial region of... Maryland?? is a difficult calculation. Relax, lean back and light up a Camel... You can't make a baby in a month by getting 9 women pregnant.
 

CBarnard

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Hi Forsoothe, Thank you for that. So don't fertilize or use bottom heat?

The objective is not to force anything, just to help it along as it rebounds. To be clear, I did not defoliate... the tree shed. I only water when soil begins to dry out, which is taking much longer (7-8 days) than when the tree was healthy (2-3 days), which means old water is hanging out and I'm not able to replace with fresh water because I don't want to over-water. My thought is that bottom heat would help with evaporation, allowing me to provide clean and fresh water, mitigating the possibility of fugal infections, and help roots remain healthy. I have not fertilized either, just thought it could help the new shoots develop, new shoots lead to new leaves, new leaves mean more photosynthesis, more photosynthesis means more carbs/energy for the tree to rebound. You can't make a baby by just relaxing and lighting up either... that also requires some fertilization and a little "work".

I'm not trying to 'rush' anything, I wanted to provide an update and seek any advice on the next steps for what is best for the tree. I'm sure the shock did inhibit primary buds... because they froze (and yes that was my fault, lesson learned). So it stands to reason the secondary buds would be the only options left for the tree. I just find it strange to see them all on the main trunk and not on any branches, even more strange to see the beginnings of what looks like an aerial root. I'm very happy to see the tree is surviving. I'll continue to update and welcome any advise given.
 

rockm

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***UPDATE*** 25 days since cold exposure. The tree has 5 new shoots, and what looks like an aerial root. Unexpectedly they are coming from the main trunk. None of the axilliary buds seemed to survive. The older branches appear to be dead/dying at tips, but a scratch test on one upper branch indicates a healthy, or at least surviving, cambiam down ~3/4 length of all but the apex branches. New growth is slow; slower than the vigor before the cold exposure. Considering beginning to fertilize again (any advice on that?).

Water regiment has decreased drastically since there is no leaves/transpiration. Worried about stagnation/mold since the soil remains moist for so long without fresh water (up to a 7-8 days before "drying out"). Considering bottom heat to aid in evaporation (any advice on that?).
Why are you rushing the process? You are inviting a problem with foliage leafing out prematurely which will serve no great purpose and you're not gaining much of an advantage on the growing season. You have interrupted the yearly growing cycle of the plant and should be happy just to have the plant survive it at all, much less zooming back into service. An important part of growing up is growing up! Bud development is a necessary part of leafing out and flowering, etc., and while your rushing the process may not hinder it by rushing the process, it won't help it. 25 days of rest is peanuts in the grand scheme of things, and the bud development that would have un-noticably taken place while the old leaves petered-out has been short-cut which probably has extended the ordinary bud development time required because sudden loss of all leaves signals an emergency, "Mayday, Mayday, expand more secondary buds as primaries...".

This IS the time of year when normal quiescent periods are being satisfied anyway, and photo-periods are increasing, and soils would be warming, and buds would begin to develope more fully, but the amount of time required varies widely and what's natural for figs in their native equatorial region of... Maryland?? is a difficult calculation. Relax, lean back and light up a Camel... You can't make a baby in a month by getting 9 women pregnant.
What? This makes no sense. This is a tropical zone plant that requires no real "seasonal downtime" in fact any downtime this tree would have in the wild would probably be in the summer when it is heat induced.

the ends of the branches and resting buds there were likely killed along with the leaves with the cold exposure. The tree is skipping the existing branches in favor of pushing new growth elsewhere. Not unusual either. Bottom heat won't hurt. Skip the fert for now. don't worry about mold. Ain't gonna hurt the tree.

Monitor your watering. Don't allow the soil to get dry. Dryish won't hurt, but extremes on either side are bad. Put it where it can get a lot of light. You might think about "tenting" the entire plant with a clear plastic bag for a week. That would reduce the stress on the new growth. Inside heat is extremely dry. the extra humidity might help.
 

CBarnard

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You might think about "tenting" the entire plant with a clear plastic bag for a week. That would reduce the stress on the new growth. Inside heat is extremely dry. the extra humidity might help.

I like that idea.

I keep it from drying out, but I have heard its better to wait a day if you are unsure before watering. Better to get a little dry than too wet...? This may have something to do with the new aerial root too? Maybe its time top pony up the $7 for a water meter ha. I've also read running a little dry pushes the roots to grow further into the soil looking for moisture and thickens the surface roots (not a goal on this tree at the moment, but I'm trying that on some other less interesting ficus). Right now I just want to get it back to health and don't really care about form or thickening anything. I'm learning here, yea I made a mistake with the cold, but its an opportunity to study the rebound process and get advise. I'll update as the tree progresses, I hate to find old threads that could be usefull, but there are no updates.
 

Forsoothe!

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What? This makes no sense. This is a tropical zone plant that requires no real "seasonal downtime" in fact any downtime this tree would have in the wild would probably be in the summer when it is heat induced.

the ends of the branches and resting buds there were likely killed along with the leaves with the cold exposure. The tree is skipping the existing branches in favor of pushing new growth elsewhere. Not unusual either. Bottom heat won't hurt. Skip the fert for now. don't worry about mold. Ain't gonna hurt the tree.

Monitor your watering. Don't allow the soil to get dry. Dryish won't hurt, but extremes on either side are bad. Put it where it can get a lot of light. You might think about "tenting" the entire plant with a clear plastic bag for a week. That would reduce the stress on the new growth. Inside heat is extremely dry. the extra humidity might help.

The tree is a tropical zone tree, but is not growing in a tropical zone. It needs to adapt, and will. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but EVERY place in the world has growth periods that vary with season. Geography is the Mother of weather, period. Mostly, the seasons in the tropics are subject to prevailing winds that blow from drier inland to the sea some of the year and from the sea towards the land in the other period. For instance, India has dry winds blowing south in "winter" from the Himalayas and on or about June 1st the winds reverse and blow north from the warm India Ocean beginning the wet season. Indonesia has trade winds blowing east half the year and west the other half. Depending upon which side of the mountain you live on, the winds are drying when running downhill, or wet when running inland from the sea. (My brain does not compute the complexities of having two summers and two "winters" for equatorial lands. We could use a lttle help from our Indonesian, Malaysian or Philipino friends here.) :rolleyes:

If putting the tree into a tent for a week would help it, would taking it back out a week later into ambient, drier air hurt it? I think it would be easier to just give as much sun as you have and water it when the soil is drier. Figs are real tolerant of getting too wet or too dry, so I wouldn't worry too much about that. As to giving it fresh, or "new" water, that doesn't compute either. It will use less water as it does less transpiration due to having less leaf surface. Some species of fungus are present and normal and beneficial in all healthy soil. Using a tent would encourage grey mould which doesn't help or hurt anything, but looks evil and will disappear when exposed to ambient, drier air.

Just because the buds are swelling along the trunk doesn't mean that those on the branches are dead or won't follow over time. That is the answer to the "Mayday" call for secondary buds to switch to primary. Consider them a bonus in that you may choose to let some grow after you have given the whole plant a chance to bud out, all over. Depending upon whether or not you already have existing branches every place you want them, some of those buds may be in preferable places such that you would rather let strategically located new buds grow and lop off a branch in a crummy position. For now, let all my people grow!:D

If you feed it now, it will grow more, but the leaves will be bigger, too. You have accidentally done, at the wrong time of year, an operation that we do, TO HEALTHY PLANTS, to force them to grow a new canopy of smaller leaves. Normally, it would be done some time after it had just grown a new year's canopy and it had enough time to mature a new set of buds in the axils. In that case, you get smaller leaves because the plant had recently used all the resources stored in the root system from the prior growing season and has less than a normal amount of resourses for the second new canopy of a given year. I normally do that by denuding the tree in the 3rd or 4th week of June. That gives the plant time to grow the second canopy and then a set of buds in the axils for next spring before the growing season ends this year. Since it has not yet leafed-out for this year, you only get a half-assed leaf reduction when it puts on this year's canopy. The glass is half-full.:cool:

The spell checker on this website is not working. Us stupid people rely on it.
 

amcoffeegirl

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i would shoot for as much indirect bright light as possible. Might tent it if I was nervous- not sealed just tented. I would’ve probably caved to adding bottom heat by now. Then again I’m in iowa.
 

rockm

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The tree is a tropical zone tree, but is not growing in a tropical zone. It needs to adapt, and will. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but EVERY place in the world has growth periods that vary with season. Geography is the Mother of weather, period. Mostly, the seasons in the tropics are subject to prevailing winds that blow from drier inland to the sea some of the year and from the sea towards the land in the other period. For instance, India has dry winds blowing south in "winter" from the Himalayas and on or about June 1st the winds reverse and blow north from the warm India Ocean beginning the wet season. Indonesia has trade winds blowing east half the year and west the other half. Depending upon which side of the mountain you live on, the winds are drying when running downhill, or wet when running inland from the sea. (My brain does not compute the complexities of having two summers and two "winters" for equatorial lands. We could use a lttle help from our Indonesian, Malaysian or Philipino friends here.) :rolleyes:

If putting the tree into a tent for a week would help it, would taking it back out a week later into ambient, drier air hurt it? I think it would be easier to just give as much sun as you have and water it when the soil is drier. Figs are real tolerant of getting too wet or too dry, so I wouldn't worry too much about that. As to giving it fresh, or "new" water, that doesn't compute either. It will use less water as it does less transpiration due to having less leaf surface. Some species of fungus are present and normal and beneficial in all healthy soil. Using a tent would encourage grey mould which doesn't help or hurt anything, but looks evil and will disappear when exposed to ambient, drier air.

Just because the buds are swelling along the trunk doesn't mean that those on the branches are dead or won't follow over time. That is the answer to the "Mayday" call for secondary buds to switch to primary. Consider them a bonus in that you may choose to let some grow after you have given the whole plant a chance to bud out, all over. Depending upon whether or not you already have existing branches every place you want them, some of those buds may be in preferable places such that you would rather let strategically located new buds grow and lop off a branch in a crummy position. For now, let all my people grow!:D

If you feed it now, it will grow more, but the leaves will be bigger, too. You have accidentally done, at the wrong time of year, an operation that we do, TO HEALTHY PLANTS, to force them to grow a new canopy of smaller leaves. Normally, it would be done some time after it had just grown a new year's canopy and it had enough time to mature a new set of buds in the axils. In that case, you get smaller leaves because the plant had recently used all the resources stored in the root system from the prior growing season and has less than a normal amount of resourses for the second new canopy of a given year. I normally do that by denuding the tree in the 3rd or 4th week of June. That gives the plant time to grow the second canopy and then a set of buds in the axils for next spring before the growing season ends this year. Since it has not yet leafed-out for this year, you only get a half-assed leaf reduction when it puts on this year's canopy. The glass is half-full.:cool:

The spell checker on this website is not working. Us stupid people rely on it.
Uh, no don't think that's the way it works. It's simple--ficus grow when they can and conditions are right, same as most tropical plants. They do not become temperate zone trees simply because they're sold at a Walmart in Nebraska.

From literally the guy who wrote the book on Ficus bonsai

http://www.bonsaihunk.us/ficusforum/FicusTechniques/FigTechnique19.html
http://www.bonsaihunk.us/ficusforum/FicusTechniques/FigTechnique18.html

and as for the tenting--um, it's a pretty common technique for stressed bonsai
http://www.bonsaihunk.us/ficusforum/FicusTechniques/FigTechnique22.html
*The tree may be placed into an emergency tent created from a large clear plastic bag. Keep the bag out of direct sun but in good artificial or indirect sunlight. Open the bag every few days and moisten the soil as needed.

Once the tree is growing new leaves remove it from the bag increasing an hour or two longer each day and then after a week remove it from the bag.
 
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CBarnard

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I get what you’re saying Forsoothe. I was just under the impression that when growing a tropical tree indoors, under real + artificial lighting and climate control, the tree wouldn’t experience dormancy, and that this lack of seasons is completely fine for a fig, maybe not as great as growing up in Siep Reap, but still fine? For the past year, including Nov, Dec, and most of Jan, it was very vigorous... until I froze it. So other than 15 mins of cold the tree should think it’s in growing season? Maybe I pushed it too hard for too long and it does need a dormancy period. I guess it’s gotten one for the past month anyway, hell maybe it needs even longer, I don’t really know.

As for a tent, (not sealed of course) I hesitate misting the tree as much as I did when it had leaves, so it could be a way to maintain consistent humidity in a dry office? I did try a humidity tray, but the only thing I have that works was still drying out in just a couple hours. I think a tent could also help keep ambient temps higher and more stable. For a tree that normally grows in 90F jungles, warmer and more humid would be better for bud development no?

The top three crown branches are wrinkled, dry, brittle and look very much dead, triaged black, not removing but I’m not hopeful. Primary and secondary branch’s look alive ~70% from the trunk. The tips look dead and all previously established buds and petioles are dried to a crisp. I am hopeful the branches will bud out, so I'm not pruning anything until there is substantial new growth and the tree appears healthy again. The good news is, the thing seems to be surviving...
 
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