Cold Damage, Should I defoliate?

rockm

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I get what you’re saying Forsoothe. I was just under the impression that when growing a tropical tree indoors, under real + artificial lighting and climate control, the tree wouldn’t experience dormancy, and that this lack of seasons is completely fine for a fig, maybe not as great as growing up in Siep Reap, but still fine? For the past year, including Nov, Dec, and most of Jan, it was very vigorous... until I froze it. So other than 15 mins of cold the tree should think it’s in growing season? Maybe I pushed it too hard for too long and it does need a dormancy period. I guess it’s gotten one for the past month anyway, hell maybe it needs even longer, I don’t really know.

As for a tent, (not sealed of course) I hesitate misting the tree as much as I did when it had leaves, so it could be a way to maintain consistent humidity in a dry office? I did try a humidity tray, but the only thing I have that works was still drying out in just a couple hours. I think a tent could also help keep ambient temps higher and more stable. For a tree that normally grows in 90F jungles, warmer and more humid would be better for bud development no?

The top three crown branches are wrinkled, dry, brittle and look very much dead, triaged black, not removing but I’m not hopeful. Primary and secondary branch’s look alive ~70% from the trunk. The tips look dead and all previously established buds and petioles are dried to a crisp. I am hopeful the branches will bud out, so I'm not pruning anything until there is substantial new growth and the tree appears healthy again. The good news is, the thing seems to be surviving...
There is no conveyed dormancy for this tree. It will grow when it has decent conditions. Saying you somehow short circuited it at "the wrong time of year" is misleading. Saying you can't help it along after its sudden exposure to cold can short circuit its recovery. Read how the tree exposed to the same thing was handled by someone who is an expert with the species. Jerry Meislik literally wrote a book about ficus bonsai. He's been developing them for literally decades, INSIDE.
 

amcoffeegirl

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There is no conveyed dormancy for this tree. It will grow when it has decent conditions. Saying you somehow short circuited it at "the wrong time of year" is misleading. Saying you can't help it along after its sudden exposure to cold can short circuit its recovery. Read how the tree exposed to the same thing was handled by someone who is an expert with the species. Jerry Meislik literally wrote a book about ficus bonsai. He's been developing them for literally decades, INSIDE.
@rockm has given great advice.
You don’t want to stall on recovery- that is when trees can be lost.
 

CBarnard

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There is no conveyed dormancy for this tree. It will grow when it has decent conditions. Saying you somehow short circuited it at "the wrong time of year" is misleading. Saying you can't help it along after its sudden exposure to cold can short circuit its recovery. Read how the tree exposed to the same thing was handled by someone who is an expert with the species. Jerry Meislik literally wrote a book about ficus bonsai. He's been developing them for literally decades, INSIDE.
@rockm has given great advice.
You don’t want to stall on recovery- that is when trees can be lost.

Agreed. I want to help it as much as possible. I think there was a miss-understanding somewhere that I wanted to FORCE it to do anything. I've also emailed Jerry to see if a copy of the book is still available directly. A local book store has a great selection of free bonsai books, but I have not seen this one. Looks like very good reference material. Thanks for posting on it!
 

Forsoothe!

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I think you get it find, @CBarnard. Give it a long time to remove "dead" branches. You'd be surprised at the ability of nature to survive bad events, like being stripped of foliage in a Typhoon.

Elsewhere:

As to "Uh, no don't think that's the way it works. It's simple--ficus grow when they can and conditions are right, same as most tropical plants. They do not become temperate zone trees simply because they're sold at a Walmart in Nebraska."

I guess that starting that gross misrepresentation of what I said with "Uh" is very appropriate. I said they adapt to the conditions they are in. And, EVERY plant goes through a growth cycle which includes: high growth to add foliage; flower and set seed; mature seed; secondary growth that adds foliage and matures next season's buds; quiescence; repeat ad infinitum. Nature or mankind can interfere with the cycle, but the plant will return to the cycle as best they can, when they can.

The cycle is a function of the existing weather cycles in any given location. I don't know how the cycle works in the zone where there are two summers and two winters each year because the photo-period is longer and intensity of sunlight is higher every day of the year than it is on the peak day of summer in the Temperate Zones. But, in Nebraska there is one, single yearly cycle and you get one set of figs each year, if you're lucky. In any year where the seed is not matured by the end of the growing season, buds for the next season are concurrently not matured either, such that the following season often has no flowers. This "skipped" year for fruit is common in Apples, and Azaleas, and many other plants grown north of their native zone, and/or the year following a year with a heavy fruit set.

I can say this in different ways as many times as necessary to get my point across. I'm retired and have all the time in the world...
 

rockm

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I think you get it find, @CBarnard. Give it a long time to remove "dead" branches. You'd be surprised at the ability of nature to survive bad events, like being stripped of foliage in a Typhoon.

Elsewhere:

As to "Uh, no don't think that's the way it works. It's simple--ficus grow when they can and conditions are right, same as most tropical plants. They do not become temperate zone trees simply because they're sold at a Walmart in Nebraska."

I guess that starting that gross misrepresentation of what I said with "Uh" is very appropriate. I said they adapt to the conditions they are in. And, EVERY plant goes through a growth cycle which includes: high growth to add foliage; flower and set seed; mature seed; secondary growth that adds foliage and matures next season's buds; quiescence; repeat ad infinitum. Nature or mankind can interfere with the cycle, but the plant will return to the cycle as best they can, when they can.what

The cycle is a function of the existing weather cycles in any given location. I don't know how the cycle works in the zone where there are two summers and two winters each year because the photo-period is longer and intensity of sunlight is higher every day of the year than it is on the peak day of summer in the Temperate Zones. But, in Nebraska there is one, single yearly cycle and you get one set of figs each year, if you're lucky. In any year where the seed is not matured by the end of the growing season, buds for the next season are concurrently not matured either, such that the following season often has no flowers. This "skipped" year for fruit is common in Apples, and Azaleas, and many oher plants grown north of their native zone, and/or the year following a year with a heavy fruit set.

I can say this in different ways as many times as necessary to get my point across. I'm retired and have all the time in the world...
Ok, but your advice to this poster was misleading and could have set them back. You've made several statements that are extremely confusing, especially for a beginner.
 

Vance Wood

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I can't imagine that this kind of activity in the cold would really damage a benjamina. I transported a big one in the back of a pickup truck once in freezing temperatures and it didn't really change leaf quality or the growing tips. Every situation is different of course, but these are pretty tough in my experience.

How is your watering schedule? It's tough to see w/ these photos but it might just be getting too dry?
I have had a Benjamin get 20* for a couple of days with no ill effects. However; sometimes just moving one can cost you a season of leaves. Give it time, they'll grow back.
 

CBarnard

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For anyone who may be interested, Jerry's book is still available directly http://www.bonsaihunk.us/book/BackInPrint/Add2Soft.html.
I emailed him, he responded quickly and asked what I was doing for the tree. I answered and his response was:

"I think your care is just perfect. Bagging in a plastic bag would be fine too.
Time will tell.
Jerry"

I think I will make a "tent" tonight for it. I don't want to just bag it because I've had issues when I tried something similar before and the bag made direct contact with a plant. More updates to come, and thank you everyone for any advise given now or in future.
 

CBarnard

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"Basically" followed the do nothing other than water when dry and keep warm. I did mist occasionally to keep the buds moist, and tented it overnight and on weekends (left at office). Did this for 4 weeks with a timed grow light at 14 hours to feed the new foliage without UV. Tree is back and should be smooth sailing from here. Going back to regular fertilizing and will basically let it grow strong until it takes some shape and new branches brown off. Then I'll starting thinking about styling. Thanks for all the tips everyone! I may update this thread going forward just out of appreciation of those who offered advice, and our mutual enjoyment of these trees, but so far as the cold damage the tree is out of the... woods.
 

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