LG Flat Top Bald Cypress

Lars Grimm

Chumono
Messages
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Location
Durham, North Carolina
USDA Zone
7
Hi All,

This is a progression thread on a flat top style bald cypress in my collection. This was one of the first trees I ever purchased back in 2016. I think I paid about $100-$150 for it and couldn't believe I was making such a large purchase (ohh how times have changed....). It was purchased from @Zach Smith at Bonsai South. Here are the initial pictures from October 2016.
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That winter I discovered it must have a had a presumed borer infection as the bark on one side completely sloughed off and I found several large holes. Here it is in summer 2017 with the bark sloughed off on one side. I really let it grow in order to thicken up the new apical branch.

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Nice! Was debating about starting another Cypress this spring.... think you helped me make up my mind.
 
Last year was a great year for growth after I put it into a large Anderson Flat. I was able to get a lot of nice strong apical branches and really get some good movement and structure.

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I just repotted it into a nanban style pot. From here on out I will focus on building the ramification. This has been a really great experience for me to go from a really rough piece of material to something that I can show at a club event this year or next. I still have to decide what to do the with the deadwood. I have just left it as is currently, but it needs some visual interest.

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From first to last picture, nice work!
 
I like it. Be careful not to let that apex grow too fast, it will thicken up quickly and spoil your taper. I like the deadwood, I would not carve it too much, maybe clean it, brush it with a wire brush along the grain to give it some character, then apply some lime sulphur with a little india ink mixed in (I don't line the stark white, except for on junipers). I would also apply some wood hardener or epoxy to seal it, the wood will rot easily.
 
I like it. Be careful not to let that apex grow too fast, it will thicken up quickly and spoil your taper. I like the deadwood, I would not carve it too much, maybe clean it, brush it with a wire brush along the grain to give it some character, then apply some lime sulphur with a little india ink mixed in (I don't line the stark white, except for on junipers). I would also apply some wood hardener or epoxy to seal it, the wood will rot easily.
Yeah, the wood seems very soft. I was debating between just some very light carving versus letting it really hollow out naturally. It doesn't seem like it would take the detail carving you can do with hardwood species. At the very least, the apical trunk chop is visible and needs to be removed.
 
I see what you mean, a little transition "whittling" at the top chop to blend. The rest I would try to preserve and not let rot away, it (the trunk) has, to my eye, such a pleasing curve.
 
Last year was a great year for growth after I put it into a large Anderson Flat. I was able to get a lot of nice strong apical branches and really get some good movement and structure.

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I just repotted it into a nanban style pot. From here on out I will focus on building the ramification. This has been a really great experience for me to go from a really rough piece of material to something that I can show at a club event this year or next. I still have to decide what to do the with the deadwood. I have just left it as is currently, but it needs some visual interest.

View attachment 288195
You did a great job with this tree, Lars! Thanks for posting the progression. Love the nanban.
 
Yeah, the wood seems very soft. I was debating between just some very light carving versus letting it really hollow out naturally. It doesn't seem like it would take the detail carving you can do with hardwood species. At the very least, the apical trunk chop is visible and needs to be removed.
Get yourself some PC Petrifier if you want to preserve the wood. It's a great product; I use it all the time.
 
Thanks Zach. Any advice on carving? I'm not sure how well it will take given the softness of the wood.
I end up carving down at the chop by year three as the callus rolls over during the healing. A Dremel will work (not on living wood so well), but of late I mostly use hand tools. Knob cutters if a lot of wood needs to go at once, followed by smaller hand tools. The wood isn't juniper density, but it's not punky either. I've never had any real problem carving BC wood.
 
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