Root stand process

Plastic bag? Not tied shut but laying closed, if you know what I mean

Key is, wood needs to slowly dry
 
Wrapped in what? Like a dry towel or damp cloth?
Careful there chief, if you prevent air circulation you will promote mold and fungal growth. Not to say spalted wood doesn't look good, it's typically less dense, hence weaker depending on what stage it is at.

The common rule of thumb for drying wood is 1 inch x year. So a 2 inch thick board will take 2yrs to dry to ambient humidity....and so on.
 
Been playing around with different tools used to reem out the holes today. I have tried a bunch but what I have found works well are filing drill bits, die grinder bits for aluminum and kutzal extreme. Either way its a very slow process especially since this is my first one and dont want to remove wood where it would challenge the structural integrity of the stand. Worked a bit on this side of it today.
20200927_174927.jpg

And as for the cracks I have decided since I wont be able to stop them or repair them in any way to make them still look natural I have decided that I will let it fully dry out and then highlight those mistakes with a bright dark green epoxy!
 
Been playing around with different tools used to reem out the holes today. I have tried a bunch but what I have found works well are filing drill bits, die grinder bits for aluminum and kutzal extreme. Either way its a very slow process especially since this is my first one and dont want to remove wood where it would challenge the structural integrity of the stand. Worked a bit on this side of it today.
View attachment 331731

And as for the cracks I have decided since I wont be able to stop them or repair them in any way to make them still look natural I have decided that I will let it fully dry out and then highlight those mistakes with a bright dark green epoxy!
I'm curious to see what it will look like with the epoxy. I'm in the process of making a small one myself. The bit got dull so I need to order a couple more to finish the stand. My is out if Kwanzan cherry.
 
I'm curious to see what it will look like with the epoxy. I'm in the process of making a small one myself. The bit got dull so I need to order a couple more to finish the stand. My is out if Kwanzan cherry.
Lol same! And awesome feel free to post a picture if you like 😊
 
by the heat that's generated.
You do let the machine do the work right? Not put lots of pressure on the tool.
And each tool has a specific speed. Took fast, too much pressure and they burn
 
Been playing around with different tools used to reem out the holes today. I have tried a bunch but what I have found works well are filing drill bits, die grinder bits for aluminum and kutzal extreme. Either way its a very slow process especially since this is my first one and dont want to remove wood where it would challenge the structural integrity of the stand. Worked a bit on this side of it today.
View attachment 331731

And as for the cracks I have decided since I wont be able to stop them or repair them in any way to make them still look natural I have decided that I will let it fully dry out and then highlight those mistakes with a bright dark green epoxy!

You'd get more work done of you weren't dressed for cuddling on that nice looking carpet!

Better throw some boots on or your gonna end up getting hurt!😋😂

Nice, though I wish the holes were less uniform, it seems you are seeing it to a good vision.

I like the epoxy idea. Maybe make it play well off of popular pot colors, or hide it.

Sorce
 
You do let the machine do the work right? Not put lots of pressure on the tool.
And each tool has a specific speed. Took fast, too much pressure and they burn
Both of these are actually right. The HSS bits are poor compared to carbide. For many milling type bits you’ll get more wood removal at a lower speed. If it’s burning you need less rpm and less pressure.
 
You do let the machine do the work right? Not put lots of pressure on the tool.
And each tool has a specific speed. Took fast, too much pressure and they burn
I'm not a rookie woodworker ;), but that good info to put out in case others don't know. Also if your HSS bit tip turns blue kiss it bye bye. HSS just can't compare to carbide when carving for hours non stop.
 
Hmmmmm.... a trick question. If it is lighter color and shiny then it's Krylon clear satin acrylic. If dark and more dull then it's several coats of tung oil.
 
Hmmmmm.... a trick question. If it is lighter color and shiny then it's Krylon clear satin acrylic. If dark and more dull then it's several coats of tung oil.
It looks light amber looking which made me think shellac. Trying to decide what to finish my root stand with.
 
Shellac will amber it up, nice if that's what you want. I flop back and forth depending on what wood I'm working with. I like Junipers and Yew dark and light woods light. Several coats of Krylon is bulletproof, but so is anything else applied in several coats. Every wood absorbs differently and I just keep applying until I get the sheen I want, especially the flat end of grain top.
 
You'd get more work done of you weren't dressed for cuddling on that nice looking carpet!

Better throw some boots on or your gonna end up getting hurt!😋😂

Nice, though I wish the holes were less uniform, it seems you are seeing it to a good vision.

I like the epoxy idea. Maybe make it play well off of popular pot colors, or hide it.

Sorce
I also am trying to make the holes more random to make it look natural. The new kutzall extreme bit is just incredible so I was working a bit on it today further. And then my die grinder broke 🤦‍♂️ luckily its under warrenty but will need to wait until friday to trade it in unfortunatley. So far around 13 hours into this piece.20200928_214240.jpg
20200928_214246.jpg
As for the epoxy color im really not sure what color to use at this point. I was thinking of a bright darker green because I plan to put my dwarf jade on it. Might play around with a bright blue though since I want the stain color to be a dark mahogony color.
 
Back
Top Bottom