Big boxwood chopdown

HoneyHornet

Shohin
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New Jersey
USDA Zone
7a
I have a big boxwood bush i found last summer that i been wanting to chop way back..someone removed from their yard and it was in perfect health bright green,i wanted it to acclimate to repotting and just survive the rest of year because it was dead of summer i didnt want to make aggressive cutback at that time. Is it good to do now or should i have reduced weeks ago? Zone 7 having really nice spring days but just last week was freezing,was unsure if i "missed" best time or are we in it right now

Has big root system and top is a good 3 feet around..the teunk is singular and fat with allot of cool interest..figured it would be cool candidate
 
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Ive read they are prone to winter damage wich is why i waited, i feel like its probably perfect timing..another thing i wanted to mention was that most of the growth is on outer perimeter so even taking 1/3 of height off will likely leave it barewood..any thoughts
 
Here is the pics when i found it and then popped in a 5 gal bucket next to my steps


Its currently not as green as that pic its a little duller but i believe its still good to go
 

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They grow quite specifically once in spring, and once in fall.

With no low buds, I'd want to make some before going all the way, so I'd probably remove everything but one leaf and bud everywhere and see what happens.

In California they go bare chopping with no problems. But only in California!

Sorce
 
They grow quite specifically once in spring, and once in fall.

With no low buds, I'd want to make some before going all the way, so I'd probably remove everything but one leaf and bud everywhere and see what happens.

In California they go bare chopping with no problems. But only in California!

Sorce
Ahh like take each branch down leaving a node or 2 on each and then when new buds start swelling lower on branches then remove more..il do that thank u

Should prob wait to touch roots then till after the reduction with new buds right?
 
I don't think you'll have to work the roots any time soon. I'm actually quite surprised this did so well so out of balance before.

branch down leaving a node or 2 on each and then when new buds start swelling lower on branches then remove more..il do that thank u

That is it yes, but, I didn't consider really how far out that foliage was....

The goal is basically to remove as much as possible, as close to your keeper parts as possible, to get them to bud....

So for this material, any of these cuts are good, because they lop giant amounts that will cause budding where you need, but don't kill the whole branch.
Capture+_2021-03-23-06-09-55.png

Lopping all those medium sized things, hard as it will certainly be, can get you bids right from the trunk.

It's going to be ugly for a long time, but worth it..

Upon this closer inspection, this is a dope ass piece!

Sorce
 
I don't think you'll have to work the roots any time soon. I'm actually quite surprised this did so well so out of balance before.



That is it yes, but, I didn't consider really how far out that foliage was....

The goal is basically to remove as much as possible, as close to your keeper parts as possible, to get them to bud....

So for this material, any of these cuts are good, because they lop giant amounts that will cause budding where you need, but don't kill the whole branch.
View attachment 362985

Lopping all those medium sized things, hard as it will certainly be, can get you bids right from the trunk.

It's going to be ugly for a long time, but worth it..

Upon this closer inspection, this is a dope ass piece!

Sorce
Deezamnn yea thats major league reduction..u think its prime time right now?since it was first day of spring the other day?and is this suggesting to leave smaller branches but just cut the mediums as you illustrated with red

And yea the root system was prerry much all fine hair,should i leave in my 5 gal bucket to help recover from such dramatic redux
 
I havr to take fresh pics but if i remember i think the primary trunk actually snakes up pretty high was considering maybe a multi tier situation..trying to decide how tall to go..need to take closer look again i kind of just let it be since last year
 
prime time right now?

Not necessarily.

Cutting them before spring and fall growth usually only activates present buds, where, making these lops during growth, will make it more likely to pop new buds.

Prime time IMO would be about 2 or 3 weeks after it starts growing, 2- 3 weeks before "summer dormancy", which exists regardless of human observation.

Some things to consider....colored as the Stop Light.

See this branch going back into the canopy, (assuming everything is alive), rules would have you cut that off, but there is more to consider before making these mindless moves.

Capture+_2021-03-23-07-22-09.png

So don't cut the red yet. You're looking to get buds as close as possible to the trunk, while leaving green as we spoke of, so this scenario, to get buds near the light green and accomplish this, you need that off branch now to be able to make the yellow cut. Which is removing the most possible, as close in as possible.

To remain a little safer, where maybe twigs have been so shaded for long they won't stay alive, you can go farther out, the dark green, and be "safer".

But in every instance possible. Go as hard as you can.

When those off branches going back into the canopy serve their lifeline purpose, then they can be cut off.

This type of mulling over can see you through this important stage.

See also...https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/boxwood-for-real.29340/

Sorce
 
I don't think you'll have to work the roots any time soon. I'm actually quite surprised this did so well so out of balance before.
I think it's because boxwood tend to have no interior foliage at all when they are hedge pruned. So not that much to support by the roots.
 
Not necessarily.

Cutting them before spring and fall growth usually only activates present buds, where, making these lops during growth, will make it more likely to pop new buds.

Prime time IMO would be about 2 or 3 weeks after it starts growing, 2- 3 weeks before "summer dormancy", which exists regardless of human observation.

Some things to consider....colored as the Stop Light.

See this branch going back into the canopy, (assuming everything is alive), rules would have you cut that off, but there is more to consider before making these mindless moves.

View attachment 362998

So don't cut the red yet. You're looking to get buds as close as possible to the trunk, while leaving green as we spoke of, so this scenario, to get buds near the light green and accomplish this, you need that off branch now to be able to make the yellow cut. Which is removing the most possible, as close in as possible.

To remain a little safer, where maybe twigs have been so shaded for long they won't stay alive, you can go farther out, the dark green, and be "safer".

But in every instance possible. Go as hard as you can.

When those off branches going back into the canopy serve their lifeline purpose, then they can be cut off.

This type of mulling over can see you through this important stage.

See also...https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/boxwood-for-real.29340/

Sorce
Thank you for the valuable info..ill try to hold back my temptation and wait til i see some new green pop before i make the move based on what you said
 
"Not necessarily.

Cutting them before spring and fall growth usually only activates present buds, where, making these lops during growth, will make it more likely to pop new buds."
I think i read on that 'boxwood for real' you said as long as its warm enough to go outside you can make drastic cuts but looking back that was in like 2017 .i assume this advice to wait til there ia new growth before making this major redux has been acquired since then? Was real good thread ill be going back to it as a reference

Wanted to mention that it is not super bright green anymore ita a darker duller green..the leaves are still pretty strong stuck to the branch tho lile u have to give it a good tug so i wanna believe its still in good shape and just winter beaten..ita my first boxwood ive looked at other than just as lawn landscape so i had no reference point to what this meant for its health state..

u think i should hit it with some fert to boost for new season and when new buds swell go ahead and reduce..i typically dont kill my trees on reduction in the past but i guess its more daunting because it is a significant redux so im like wahhh
 
as long as its warm enough to go outside you can make drastic cuts

Possibly, but making drastic cuts and getting results from drastic cuts will be 2 different things.

In spring, drastic cuts tend to make what's left grow stronger, since the tree has been prepared to grow there all winter. It may decide to bud further in, but they'll tend to just sit there till the fall growth period anyway.

While it's growing stronger and the days are still getting longer later, and you hit or hard, usually there is too much activity for it to NOT pop buds. I believe this is simply because it's it's most efficient use of energy.

Sorce
 
I agree, the guidance on pruning boxwood is after the first flush of growth, but, as Sorce said, not right after - wait for the tree to recoup the energy it put into the growth, but before the full summer heat sets in. Then, also as Sorce mentioned:
  • Selective pruning: remove branches that are not necessary for your final design, especially ones that could cause problems like reverse taper
  • Prune to make the plant more compact, cutting back as far as you can while still leaving some green on each branch. Sometimes boxwood will bounce back even if there isn't any green, but other times, the branch (or tree) dies.
Only do this if you think the plant is strong and healthy - after digging up and repotting a tree, it is possible it needs another year to be able to handle and respond well to major pruning. If your first flush of growth this year is strong, go ahead with one or both parts of the pruning you need to do (selective pruning and making branches more compact). If not, strong, either leave the tree or do minor work and let it gain strength for next year.

With the approach to make the tree more compact - pruning back to leave just a bit of green growth on each branch - you will have to "chase" the growth back over time. In other words, you may or may not get growth as low down on the tree as you'd like after the first round of pruning. You might have to let the tree regain strength and repeat this procedure a couple times.
 
I see this as being most likely to be honest. Most of my experience is not with this large of a specimen with growth this far out..i dont wanna make too harsh of a move..and honestly the growth is almost entirely on the perimeter..i will only be able to take an inch or two out if i plan on leaving green on each branch

I feel like i should have made a move last season(yes was first season that it was pulled but it was so bright green and strong i think it would have been cool to at least do this first stage of redux)..BUT i didnt..so i have to sleep with that lol..at this point i suppose the smartest thing to do is to wait til growth pops..give it a few weeks and then reduce a little bit..the trunk is worth taking the time
With the approach to make the tree more compact - pruning back to leave just a bit of green growth on each branch - you will have to "chase" the growth back over time. In other words, you may or may not get growth as low down on the tree as you'd like after the first round of pruning. You might have to let the tree regain strength and repeat this procedure a couple tim
 
Pic doesnt show that great but the green isnt super vibrant..there is some nice green under the outer perimeter which i will probably xut back to first...

But i noticed something that makes me not know at all if the color is indicating anything...i found a clipping on the ground from last season next to the pot.......the clipping is still green!!! Yes the leaves still have a good tug strength but for some reason so does the clipping..so odd that the clipping has same appearance of the plant kind of..underside of leaves is pale and top is kind of dull green....also i did a small 'scratch test' to see cambium and judge health..as a healthy tree typically has bright green..this seems to barely have much under the surface for green...some of the fine growth has a pale greenishness upon scratching..but not like any of my other trees...is this a boxwood thing or is this tree beat lol
 

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I really dropped the ball on this one...i could have made selective pruning when i brought it home..it was strong as an ox...should have taken down to a leaf on each branch too it would of made it...but upon getting a new job and finding out i was having a baby everything changed and it went neglected..i know it happens but it kills me cuz it was a real nice find...and im not even doing tree work anymore so im no longer around collectable material all the time like i was! Waahhh
 
Pic doesnt show that great but the green isnt super vibrant..there is some nice green under the outer perimeter which i will probably xut back to first...

But i noticed something that makes me not know at all if the color is indicating anything...i found a clipping on the ground from last season next to the pot.......the clipping is still green!!! Yes the leaves still have a good tug strength but for some reason so does the clipping..so odd that the clipping has same appearance of the plant kind of..underside of leaves is pale and top is kind of dull green....also i did a small 'scratch test' to see cambium and judge health..as a healthy tree typically has bright green..this seems to barely have much under the surface for green...some of the fine growth has a pale greenishness upon scratching..but not like any of my other trees...is this a boxwood thing or is this tree beat lol
I'm not following everything your saying here, but as for the last part, the foliage in the pictures does not look healthy. Its hard to say whether the tree just didn't survive the collection (likely the case) or if it has something like boxwood blight. As for the next thing you posted - that you should have cut it harder last year... well, looking at the foliage, I don't think that would have helped.
 
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