Advice for the direction of this maple please

[iliketrees]

Hi,

Owned a chinese elm for a few years, but I just picked up my first maple and would love some advice on where to take it from here/styling tips/ branch/leader selection. Included a picture of the front and back of the tree.

Thanks so much in advance!

Zone 7a

 

[Shibui]

Your Japanese maple has a better trunk than most we see asking for help.
It's a nice bonsai. What do you see as problem(s) that need attention?

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Agreed, it is a nice little maple. Given the time of year, the only work I would do is make sure that this year’s growth (new shoots) is reduced to a single pair of leaves. It looks pretty sparse already, so I probably would not do a 50% defoliation.

 

[iliketrees]

Your Japanese maple has a better trunk than most we see asking for help.
It's a nice bonsai. What do you see as problem(s) that need attention?

I don’t see problems necessarily more just feel a little bit out of my depth. The elm I’ve owned was in a much different place where I was primarily focused on thickening the trunk and developing new leaders to add height. With this maple I’m less sure how to proceed stylistically, seems potentially already proportionally tall based on location of the lowest branches and therefore do I focus more on developing a canopy/existing branches/interior ramification than developing leaders to add height necessarily?

 

[iliketrees]

Agreed, it is a nice little maple. Given the time of year, the only work I would do is make sure that this year’s growth (new shoots) is reduced to a single pair of leaves. It looks pretty sparse already, so I probably would not do a 50% defoliation.

Thank you for the advice! I thought so too. Don’t want to do anything drastic this year.

 

[Daniel son STL]

Nice little tree! For now it looks like there’s quite a few shoots forming the apex at the top chop. I would at least reduce those down to two shoots to avoid a nasty clump at the top of your tree, and then let it grow a bit.

 

[iliketrees]

Nice little tree! For now it looks like there’s quite a few shoots forming the apex at the top chop. I would at least reduce those down to two shoots to avoid a nasty clump at the top of your tree, and then let it grow a bit.

Thanks for the advice. will do! Any opinion on shade cloths and % blockage? From my understanding the leaves are more delicate than bonsai I have had in the past. I’m in 7a for context.

 

[Dav4]

Thanks for the advice. will do! Any opinion on shade cloths and % blockage? From my understanding the leaves are more delicate than bonsai I have had in the past. I’m in 7a for context.

Just for context, 7a New mexico is much different than 7a in GA, RI, etc., ... giving us the state or region you live in will get you better advice. Maples can do just fine in full sun in much of the country if relative humidity is high, but will also do just fine with 3-4 hours of morning sun and/dappled shade. Dry winds are the enemy... I'm failing miserably at protecting my trees from that here in SE MI. I've never used shade cloth, so won't comment. As far as your tree is concerned, it's got good bones. As others have mentioned, a light pruning is reasonable now, thinning only those areas that need it. The best time to evaluate maples for more significant pruning/design considerations is after the leaves have fallen. Good luck with it.

 

[iliketrees]

Just for context, 7a New mexico is much different than 7a in GA, RI, etc., ... giving us the state or region you live in will get you better advice. Maples can do just fine in full sun in much of the country if relative humidity is high, but will also do just fine with 3-4 hours of morning sun and/dappled shade. Dry winds are the enemy... I'm failing miserably at protecting my trees from that here in SE MI. I've never used shade cloth, so won't comment. As far as your tree is concerned, it's got good bones. As others have mentioned, a light pruning is reasonable now, thinning only those areas that need it. The best time to evaluate maples for more significant pruning/design considerations is after the leaves have fallen. Good luck with it.

That makes sense. Im in PA. Thank you for your advice!

 

[Shibui]

seems potentially already proportionally tall based on location of the lowest branches and therefore do I focus more on developing a canopy/existing branches/interior ramification than developing leaders to add height necessarily?

This is helpful. If you are happy with height you'll need to trim more at the top to stop increase in height. Apical trimming should divert growth into lower branches to help develop branches and ramification so should be win/win.
It's a small bonsai so you will need to watch for clusters of shoots growing close together. Letting many shoots grow can quickly cause local thickening so remove excess shoots as soon as you notice. Always aiming at V forks ie 1 main trunk/branch and 1 side branch at any place.
Much easier to work out what's what without leaves so most structural pruning is done after leaf fall.
I can see that the lowest branches are a group of 3 from the same level on the trunk. That's sometimes necessary on small trees as there's not so much space for all branches at separate levels but definitely something to look at and consider whether 1 or more of those could be removed to avoid long term thickening there. Something to look at when the leaves fall.

 

[Bonsai Nut]

That makes sense. Im in PA. Thank you for your advice!

Are you on well water or mains water? JM like nice soft slightly acidic water. However living in PA and keeping the tree out in the rain you will probably still be fine... versus if you lived in the SW.

 

[iliketrees]

This is helpful. If you are happy with height you'll need to trim more at the top to stop increase in height. Apical trimming should divert growth into lower branches to help develop branches and ramification so should be win/win.
It's a small bonsai so you will need to watch for clusters of shoots growing close together. Letting many shoots grow can quickly cause local thickening so remove excess shoots as soon as you notice. Always aiming at V forks ie 1 main trunk/branch and 1 side branch at any place.
Much easier to work out what's what without leaves so most structural pruning is done after leaf fall.
I can see that the lowest branches are a group of 3 from the same level on the trunk. That's sometimes necessary on small trees as there's not so much space for all branches at separate levels but definitely something to look at and consider whether 1 or more of those could be removed to avoid long term thickening there. Something to look at when the leaves fall.

Thank you for your advice. Does seem like those three branches are thickening the trunk there. Will definitely consider in the future!

 

[iliketrees]

Are you on well water or mains water? JM like nice soft slightly acidic water. However living in PA and keeping the tree out in the rain you will probably still be fine... versus if you lived in the SW.

mains water. Definitely super hard water. Any advice for how to deal with that? Hasn’t been much of a consideration for other trees but it seems like JM are potentially a bit more sensitive from what I’ve read.

 

[SeanS]

Nice mature bark!

I can see some bar branches and multiple branches from very close or the same positions on the trunk. You may want to address those before they cause any serious swelling and inverse tape issues.

 

[iliketrees]

Nice mature bark!

I can see some bar branches and multiple branches from very close or the same positions on the trunk. You may want to address those before they cause any serious swelling and inverse tape issues.

Thank you! Any advice on which branch to consider getting rid of?