Air layer and roots from a wound? Acer Rubrum

[The Warm Canuck]

I have this Red Maple that I'm planning on Air Layering at some point. I wondering what sequence of events do I need to take. I'd like to just cut the stump down and and air layer right below the wound in the spring, but I worry that I won't get root on the stump side as there will be little cambium below the stump. I could cut the stump down and wait for the it to heal, then air layer once the wound is healed, but again I don't know if I'll get roots below the wound. Or I cut the stump down and air layer all in the same go. I guess my main question is, will roots develop from healed wound cambium? and where would be the exact area to create my air layer cut to get the best result?

 

[Eckhoffw]

I’d simply cut your band at the angle you have. I’d apply rooting hormone, and bag with sphagnum.

 

[The Warm Canuck]

I’d simply cut your band at the angle you have. I’d apply rooting hormone, and bag with sphagnum.

Would you cut the stub back at the same time, or wait until after the layer has rooted, or after transplanting?

 

[Eckhoffw]

Would you cut the stub back at the same time, or wait until after the layer has rooted, or after transplanting?

I’d wait. I would just wait a year after everything is settled.

 

[Shibui]

The stub will usually die back at an angle. It probably already has because there's no sap coming from that stub now. You should be able to get some idea of viable cambium when you make the layer cut.
I suspect chances of getting roots all along that red line are not good. You should get plenty of roots closer to the living branch but less likely further along the red line.
There's no problem cutting the stub back and layering at the same time. Roots grow from callus. When a cut heals, callus grows so both your layer and the stub should both callus at the same time during layering process and produce roots.

 

[MMJNICE]

Is this in the ground or in a box? That could help Immensely if it's in the ground. Just saying

 

[The Warm Canuck]

Is this in the ground or in a box? That could help Immensely if it's in the ground. Just saying

It's in a raised bed, in the ground.

 

[The Warm Canuck]

The stub will usually die back at an angle. It probably already has because there's no sap coming from that stub now. You should be able to get some idea of viable cambium when you make the layer cut.
I suspect chances of getting roots all along that red line are not good. You should get plenty of roots closer to the living branch but less likely further along the red line.
There's no problem cutting the stub back and layering at the same time. Roots grow from callus. When a cut heals, callus grows so both your layer and the stub should both callus at the same time during layering process and produce roots.

Thanks Shibui! Where would you cut then? Would you mind drawing it?

 

[Shibui]

Brown line shows where I suspect the wood will die/has died to or, at the least will have very limited sap flow so unlikely to produce roots above that brown line. You may even be able to find the line if you look really close. Live part should be slightly higher with a new layer of wood under. Dead/dying bark begins to look slightly wrinkled. If not clear now it should be much more visible by next spring. Colour of the wood and cambium under the bark will be another visual clue when you cut the bark for the layer.
Best chance for layering is likely to be along the red line ore thereabouts. A. that's the branch collar so has active cambium and masses of dormant buds. B. should have strong sap flow from the live branch down to the roots.
Don't be surprised if you only get roots on the lower part of the layer. That seems to be common with non horizontal layers. After separating and planting the stem more vertically you should gradually get more roots around the remainder of the new trunk as auxin and sap flow evens out.

 

[The Warm Canuck]

Brown line shows where I suspect the wood will die/has died to or, at the least will have very limited sap flow so unlikely to produce roots above that brown line. You may even be able to find the line if you look really close. Live part should be slightly higher with a new layer of wood under. Dead/dying bark begins to look slightly wrinkled. If not clear now it should be much more visible by next spring. Colour of the wood and cambium under the bark will be another visual clue when you cut the bark for the layer.
Best chance for layering is likely to be along the red line ore thereabouts. A. that's the branch collar so has active cambium and masses of dormant buds. B. should have strong sap flow from the live branch down to the roots.
Don't be surprised if you only get roots on the lower part of the layer. That seems to be common with non horizontal layers. After separating and planting the stem more vertically you should gradually get more roots around the remainder of the new trunk as auxin and sap flow evens out.

Thank you so much Shibui!! I always value your experienced feedback and thanks for taking the time to draw that for me. That completely clarifies where to cut. i was hoping to preserve some of the larger diameter of the lower trunk, but oh well, that cut point should still result in an interesting trunk line.