Air layer on Acer Palmatum Dissectum

[digger714]

Hello everyone. I started an air layer about 10 weeks ago on an acer palmatum dissectum. It has about 10 large roots i can see growing through the plastic. They are about 1/16" thick. The are brownish red in color with white tips on them. This is my first air layer and I am wondering how long i should let it stay? Until middle of summer, or sooner, later? I learned the roots would start off white and turn red, then time to take off of parent plant, but not sure if this tree is different. Thanks in advance.

 

[banzaibonsai]

Leave it until fall to ensure it is strong enough to survive on its own roots!

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Then, when you separate it...whatever you do...do NOT disturb the sphagnum moss or the root ball. Just plant it straight away, deeply into some good draining soil and secure the trunk to the pot with some raffia or twine and just let it grow next year. I have lost a few great air layers because I screwed around with the new roots when I was separating them...trying to arrange them at separation to save a little time later and lost the trees. That work shouldn't start until 2012 in this case.

Congrats on getting roots to grow! That is exciting.

 

[digger714]

Man this is so awesome to be able to share things that excite others as much as myself, and get so much help doing it. I feel great to be able to give advice and help others on their trees. It really is cool there are so many of you out there that care about this so much. I am surprised there aren't more people that do this wonderful art. I think so many think it is very hard, or takes all your time, well, i guess it does if you have alot of trees. This is my first try, and im very shocked to see roots. I hear this is a tough tree to air layer. Anyway, thanks to all for the help. How many weeks before frost should you pot a layer to get it use to its new home? Or, would it be best to put it in the ground? If so, when should i plant? I have alot of trees in the ground for future bonsai. The branch is about 1" thick at the base, so what size pot should i put it in, or container? Should i use bonsai soil? Should i protect it more than the normal established trees over the winter? I was wondering about the arrangement of the roots. So if i put it in a container this fall, then keep it in there all next season, then in spring 2012, i would take out, and arrange the roots on a tile or something? Does that sound right? Thanks again.

 

[Victrinia Ensor]

I have a pot... and in it is "magic dirt". This dirt has been magical for years... literally. Because everything I stick in it puts on great roots like mad. Everytime I use the "magic dirt" there's a little less though... so at some point, I'll have to make more "magic dirt". But what it confirms for me is something pretty simple. Tender new roots don't really want to work that hard to do their job.

So the "magic dirt" is pretty simple. Perlite and smallish particle composted fir bark. It's light, retains moisture well, and is easy for the roots to penetrate. It also is somewhat insulating in winter. I would totally protect the tree when you take it this fall - don't let it freeze hard. If you can settle the pot into the earth and backfill with mulch - in a low wind area, you'll probably be fine. And do the other things suggested by the others.

Have fun!

Victrinia

 

[Victrinia Ensor]

Don't plan too far ahead... let the vigor of the tree dictate the plan, and nothing else. So you may have to wait until fall of 2012 or even spring of 2013... Rushing it will kill the tree. That is a promise. This is why having many trees is good... helps one to have more patience.

V

 

[rockm]

And don't be discouraged when the dissectum gets leaf burn. It's inevitable with thinner-leaved dissectum and threadleaved Japanese maple varieties in containers in the South. Those varieties get leaf scorch here in Va. even in the ground if they're in full sun in a yard. You can find bargain Japanese threadleaf maples at nurseries in late Aug. when most of their stocks' leaves have turned crispy...

Scorched, sun damaged leaves mostly won't kill the tree, though. They just make them unsightly for Harry Homeowner who THINKS they're dead or damaged and won't pay for them. They're usually completely salvageable. You can sometimes find 3 -4 inch diameter trunks--which can run $300-$400 at high end nurseries--for $40-$100, or less.

 

[ml_work]

"You can sometimes find 3 -4 inch diameter trunks--which can run $300-$400 at high end nurseries--for $40-$100, or less"
Yeah!
ML

 

[digger714]

Thats actually how i got my first landscape dissectum. It was the end of summer, and they had a 700.00 tag on it with 3" - 4" trunks on them, and got it for 70.00. The bottom of the burlap had broken, so it was discounted, but they still had ones for 100.00 about the same size.

 

[ml_work]

After posting my reply last night I realized it may be misunderstood. With so many different meanings for the same word, sometime depending on the age of the person making the statement. To be honest I had written " Now that's what I am talking about!" and changed it because I thought that may be just a southern slang and not understood to the many different people that come here. Then after changed to the "yeah" it come to me that some younger people use that in a smart way. So to clarify what I was saying is " that would be a great deal, getting a $400.00 large trunk tree for $40.00" I have been looking for that deal.

Keep LOOkin Up!
Michael