Tanx for the kind words @A. Gorilla ! It was a Lowes 1g nursery find years ago.Your "first mugho" cuts glass. Awesome. . How have I never seen that before? Don't hold out on us.
Amazing isn't it.Mike, Coming up to the 5 year Anniversary of the old train
How long has this tree been in your control in this pot. Really good tree worth a lot of consideration as to direction.
I don't know what you are doing but in your climate it should be flourishing. First of all it is highly uncommon for a Mugo to produce juvinile growth except in areas where some sort of back budding has started to take place and that growth is really not juvenile growth as in the way it produce growth in it's first year. Are you placing the tree in full sun? How often do you water? What kind of soil are you using? Are you aware that you really need to cut the new growth back in the middle of summer in-order to encourage back budding? I know this is not the same method that Bjorn demonstrated on a Scotts Pine but this is the method I use and have been using it for nearly 40 years. Answering the previous questions could be important so please answer them.
How long has this tree been in your control in this pot.
it just keeps growing. Just like in spring, summer and fall
bottom one on post number 3422
When was the last time you had a look at the roots? There may be a lot of root death in there.It's the bottom one on post number 3422 @sorce .
It's not side budding, but also no apical budding.
No stress whatsoever, it's been in the same spot for three years.
It's the fattest mugo I have and also the curviest one.
All the rest of them are sticking to the protocol, this one isn't and I can't figure out why. I'm fine with it being an oddball, but it makes it hard to choose what to do.
The safety mechanisms I've seen in mugos is juvenile growth or prolonged dormancy, but this is something I can't really explain.
A picture of the tree would be helpful if you can or will.All of my other mugos are doing exactly what I expect them to do based on your guide Vance. So this is an odd exception.
It's in pure inorganic soil, like all of my pines. All of them do well, just like this mugo.
It is in full sun all year around, no winter protection whatsoever. I water when the soil is dry, and it's in a pond basket, so daily watering or something close to that. Depending on the weather and if the soil is dry or not.
The roots are happy, a dense mat with no rotting parts. Seems to develop nicely.
I did not cut back anything after the first year, since I wanted it to stabilize first. It's hard to distinguish shoots if there are no actual shoots, but instead just continuously elongating branches. It doesn't made buds, it doesn't produce candles either. So I'm not practicing any techniques on it for the time being and haven't done so in two years.
It's being fed organic nutrients and heaps of them.
It's not that it's looking off, it's not unhealthy, no needlecast, no yellow needles, no drooping or grey stuff, no aphids.. It's just that it skips a dormant phase ever since it was first repotted two years ago. In winter, it just keeps growing. Just like in spring, summer and fall.
A picture of the tree would be helpful if you can or will.
It's the bottom one on post number 3422
It's up there.
There is also a close up in post 3432. Both on page 172.
Sorce
There were no buds to knock off. ;-) it never got the chance to make them.Itr's not so hard to post an image, I don't know why some of you guys make such a big deal out of it?
The reason you don't have an apical shoot growing uprighjt is because you have removed it at some point. Most of the back buds were probably knocked off accidentally when you put the wire on the tree.
What is happening here is something Mugos do on occasion. It is growing but it is not pushing candles it is pushing needles from very small buds not able to throw candles. It will do well in a year or two, don't panic and do something untoward.
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