GREAT idea.They are, you could wrap them around the trunk and stick the ends in the soil, it will eventually fuse and it’s a great shortcut to a thicker trunk
by wrap you mean like a coil ? Wouldn't that leave "coil" marks when it fuses?They are, you could wrap them around the trunk and stick the ends in the soil, it will eventually fuse and it’s a great shortcut to a thicker trunk
The roots will be absorbed into trunk after "time" from what I understand. No, "marks" will be present once the process is complete.by wrap you mean like a coil ? Wouldn't that leave "coil" marks when it fuses?
not like a coil, just spiral as you work your way to the ground since your areal root wont be super long. so one loop around the trunk and then into the groundby wrap you mean like a coil ? Wouldn't that leave "coil" marks when it fuses?
It depends on how they grow. If you coil them, there is a possibility that they will thicken and slowly adhere to the trunk, sometimes they will be visible for years. If I want them to thicken of the trunk, I set them straight at the area I want to thicken and let it grow, this way they will resemble a "live vein" instead of a snake coiling around the trunk.The roots will be absorbed into trunk after "time" from what I understand. No, "marks" will be present once the process is complete.
Yes there will be. Coilding will look unnatural imo.by wrap you mean like a coil ? Wouldn't that leave "coil" marks when it fuses?
The pin in the front was an approach graft, the one you can see on the back on the left side is a "root" graft that ended up being an additional trunk.that "pin" was to fix the aerial root to the trunk? Doesn't leave a mark when you take it off (seems the bark is going around of it)?
This 100 times!The most natural result will be if you let them grow out vertical (As air roots would nomally be pretty much vertical once they anchor) or against the trunk and follow a natural line down.
I think I remember your thread about that tree Last offtopic question, the approach graft, you just put them together and it fused ?The pin in the front was an approach graft, the one you can see on the back on the left side is a "root" graft that ended up being an additional trunk.
No, ficus grow so fast that those marks disappear within a growing season. That picture is from May 2021 when I repotted the tree, I can't find a picture from that side, but here is a picture from August 2022 when I cut the tree back. You can see the additional trunk and the aerial root almost fused together at the base of the tree. The aerial root went from string size to almost 1" in a growing season.
This tree is due a repot, or at least I need to dig 1" of soil out of the surface... maybe this weekend if I can manage to get some time. It needs to go into a bonsai pot soon.
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You could, as ficus grows fast and fuse easily, but I like to help it a little bit by carving the area I want the graft either in a wedge or concave shape and scraping the bark off to reveal the cambium. Then push it against the wedge as tight as possible and pin it in place.I think I remember your thread about that tree Last offtopic question, the approach graft, you just put them together and it fused ?
That's a good idea! Thanks for that and all the info.In short, I would
- Clip the two vertical sprouts on the low trunk next to the side branch. (Consider whether you like the planting angle of the tree_
- Drap the aerial roots along the trunk, possibly flaring out a little at the back to help it there. If you anchor the root in the soil and leave it there, it will sprout roots in the soil within weeks, given good climate, and then you can trim the rest off.
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