Victrinia Ridgeway
Omono
And you would be correct, sans the jeans. lol
As Promised, Trainwreck Thread, Foreshortening Good or Bad?
- Thread starter Smoke
- Start date
berobinson82
Omono
I'm going to try and tread lightly here:
Is this a reference to a picture of Smoke wearing a pink thong?
(Sir, I'm sorry for even insinuating such a thing)
Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
DON'T ASK!!!! you may be directed to it...
Bill S
Masterpiece
and have to eeeeeewwwwwww my eyes my eyes. 
JudyB
Queen of the Nuts
if it came in contact with the pepper powder, what color thong would be recommended?
Dav4
Drop Branch Murphy
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Oh, the horror!!! I needed 3 years of counseling and several very potent prescriptions to forget this dark time for bonsai forums....At this very moment, the image is washing over me again like a great, black wave...pink whale tale...AAAAAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!
october
Masterpiece
Hi Al,
This is a great question .. I have inquired about something like this years agao. That being, is it ok to create a nice looking apex by unconventional means. In the case of your pine, I think it looks great. I think the problem is, as you hinted to, is the future and cutting back. I have had trees that I was able to create, unconventionally, a nice looking apex..or had the apex already styled before I got it. In my experience, what ends up happening is the the apex looses it looks over time. Sometimes within a couple of years. Simply because there is growth coming from all different places. To keep the look, you have to prune where you normally wouldn't. For example, you may have to practically cut off all the foilage on one branch to keep the nice silhouette, which might risks the branch's health.
I have been told that in japan, they say it takes 10 years to create a nice, well balanced apex. 10 years is a long time to train an apex. What I usually do now is a set a basic structure for the apex. It looks like an apex, just a very raw one. However, the interior structure is good, so when it grows out, it is much more easy to maintain. There is a juniper I have had for about 8 years. Upon purchase, the tree had a branch that was bent and swung around to form an apex. The tree kept that apex for maybe 4 years. One day I realized I could not really keep it going because I had to prune the silhouette in places that shouldn't be pruned. I decided to restructure it and start over with a well formed apex. Now I can do regular clean up and pruning on it. Unfortunately, this is one of my trees that I am battling the juniper fungus on.
I guess the point of this is that if the initial structure is not well balanced, the apex may only have a limited time as an apex.
Rob
This is a great question .. I have inquired about something like this years agao. That being, is it ok to create a nice looking apex by unconventional means. In the case of your pine, I think it looks great. I think the problem is, as you hinted to, is the future and cutting back. I have had trees that I was able to create, unconventionally, a nice looking apex..or had the apex already styled before I got it. In my experience, what ends up happening is the the apex looses it looks over time. Sometimes within a couple of years. Simply because there is growth coming from all different places. To keep the look, you have to prune where you normally wouldn't. For example, you may have to practically cut off all the foilage on one branch to keep the nice silhouette, which might risks the branch's health.
I have been told that in japan, they say it takes 10 years to create a nice, well balanced apex. 10 years is a long time to train an apex. What I usually do now is a set a basic structure for the apex. It looks like an apex, just a very raw one. However, the interior structure is good, so when it grows out, it is much more easy to maintain. There is a juniper I have had for about 8 years. Upon purchase, the tree had a branch that was bent and swung around to form an apex. The tree kept that apex for maybe 4 years. One day I realized I could not really keep it going because I had to prune the silhouette in places that shouldn't be pruned. I decided to restructure it and start over with a well formed apex. Now I can do regular clean up and pruning on it. Unfortunately, this is one of my trees that I am battling the juniper fungus on.
I guess the point of this is that if the initial structure is not well balanced, the apex may only have a limited time as an apex.
Rob
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edprocoat
Masterpiece
Man, I tried to find your post mentioning the juniper tip fungus and could not. I went to several nurseries and home depot and lowes asking for copper something, thats all I could remember and I thought you said coppercide or tone, and they had no idea what it was I was seeking. Finally one nursery guy sold me some crap , an all purpose spray for mites, scale and fungus and tip blight, I can not remember the name, I immediately followed the directions and mixed it up and sprayed it on my pro nana, I remembered where you said you would cover the roots so I wrapped a terry hand towel around the roots and "sprayed the foliage until wet" as per directions. That was around noon on sunday and I put the plant in the shade checking on it the next morning, imagine my surprise to see the bright green foliage with brown tips had changed to a deep muted green, like grass not long after you spray roundup grasskiller on it !, with darker brown tips. The nana was dead within a week, all the foliage turned dark green, like the deep flat green in camo paint, then turned brittle, skipped the brown stage and fell off. at least the nursery guy refunded me $19.59 and said " I am sorry it did not work for you, did you follow the instructions" at which point I mentally wrestled with punching him in the mouth. I ended up looking straight in his eyes and he shut up, which was better than me getting slapped with an assault charge.
ed
october
Masterpiece
Wow Ed.. Thats too bad..Ya, sometimes those places don't really know a lot. Also, sometimes there is something in the instructions about how the product should not be used on certain species. Also, it is a good idea to maybe spray a small area on the back of the tree and see how it reacts before spraying the whole tree.
The common fungus sprays are daconil and also copper based fungicides. I think the brand that I have is bonide. Be careful spraying these, they can be pretty toxic. Definitely wear gloves, a long sleeve shirt and even a breathing mask.
Here is the link to the fungus thread.
Rob
http://bonsainut.com/forums/showthread.php?7791-Watch-out..Juniper-fungus-in-the-northeast
The common fungus sprays are daconil and also copper based fungicides. I think the brand that I have is bonide. Be careful spraying these, they can be pretty toxic. Definitely wear gloves, a long sleeve shirt and even a breathing mask.
Here is the link to the fungus thread.
Rob
http://bonsainut.com/forums/showthread.php?7791-Watch-out..Juniper-fungus-in-the-northeast
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