Chickasaw Plum

[R_F]

Looks good Ryan. Like the mosswork.
I have no idea about removing the flowers....if it shows signs of stress, I probably would, but if it acts like nothing has happened to it I would let them go and enjoy them. I'd remove any fruit that forms though.

Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for the kind comments. I'll keep a close watch on it and see how it does with the flowers still on.

 

[R_F]

Ryan,

This is a very good looking tree.

I have been messing with Chickasaw plums for a number of years and have found them to be very hard to grow in shallow containers. The pot you have selected is about as shallow as I would go and is not a bad choice.

Enjoy the flowers, they do not last very long. However, as Jay said, remove any fruit that starts to develop as quickly as possible. The tree is stressed at this point and you do not want lose it.

The major draw back to this species is they are borer magnets. Stressed trees seem to attract them like flies to horse manure. So, keep a close eye out for them. They will destroy a tree in a very short time if you don't watch for them. The borers start to show up around the end of March and last all through the summer in my little corner of the state.

Good luck,
Paul

Thanks for the kind comments.

In your experience, why do you think that they don't do well in shallower pots?

How can I identify the borers? I don't think I have ever seen an attack from them on any of my trees. I have a systemic that I can start using when it leafs out.

Ryan.

 

[pjkatich]

Thanks for the kind comments.

Your very welcome.

In your experience, why do you think that they don't do well in shallower pots?

In general, I have found that they have a weak root structure that seems to be inherant to this species of Prunus. I have two that I have managed to keep alive since 1993. Neither has developed what I would call a substantial root system.

I have lost six or seven more to the borers and a few more to SDS, (sudden death syndrome) over the years while planted in shallow containers. I believe these SDS failures were due to heat. My Prunus angustifolias do not like to have their roots baked in small, shallow containers. Since I started using deeper pots, the SDS problems stopped.

How can I identify the borers? I don't think I have ever seen an attack from them on any of my trees. I have a systemic that I can start using when it leafs out.

Borers are stealthy little devils. There does not seem to be a distinct pattern to their attacks. One of the signs is the sudden loss of a branch that appeared to be healthy several days earlier. Another is sap oozing from a small round hole in the trunk or branch. Sometimes there is no outward signs if they get under the bark in an obsure place.

In regards to borers, the best defense is a good offense. Check the label of your systemic to see if it works against borers and if it can be used on Prunus. If so, use it regularly and you should be ok.

I use Lindane regularly during the height of borer season and that seems to work for me.

Regards,
Paul

 

[R_F]

I have lost six or seven more to the borers and a few more to SDS, (sudden death syndrome) over the years while planted in shallow containers. I believe these SDS failures were due to heat. My Prunus angustifolias do not like to have their roots baked in small, shallow containers. Since I started using deeper pots, the SDS problems stopped.

Hi Paul,

Thanks for the help on this. I was wondering though, when your trees suddenly died were you growing them in full sun or part shade?

I have few young seedlings that I may experiment with as far as growing conditions.

 

[pjkatich]

I was wondering though, when your trees suddenly died were you growing them in full sun or part shade

They were growing in full sun when they passed. You can go with a shallower pot in part shade, however, it has been my experience that they do not flower as well when kept in those conditions. More sun seems to stimulate more flower buds.

Here is a current photo of one of mine.

Cheers,
Paul

 

[R_F]

They were growing in full sun when they passed. You can go with a shallower pot in part shade, however, it has been my experience that they do not flower as well when kept in those conditions. More sun seems to stimulate more flower buds.

Here is a current photo of one of mine.

Cheers,
Paul

This makes sense. I'll have to wait and see. I have only had my tree for about 3 years so I'm still learning the quirky things about this species.

I like your tree. It has a lot going for it. Thanks for posting it. do you have any other Chickasaws you could share?

 

[irene_b]

Fantastic flowers on that one Paul!!!!
Do you air layer or just do cuttings?
Irene

 

[irene_b]

Any macro shots of the flowers Ryan?

 

[R_F]

Any macro shots of the flowers Ryan?

Hi Irene,

No. I wish. I'm not that proficient with my camera yet

 

[pjkatich]

This makes sense. I'll have to wait and see. I have only had my tree for about 3 years so I'm still learning the quirky things about this species.?

I have been growing mine since 1993 and I am still learning the quirky things about this particular species of prunus.

I like your tree. It has a lot going for it. Thanks for posting it. do you have any other Chickasaws you could share?

Thanks for the compliment. I think this tree is heading in a positive direction. However, I'm not satisfied with the current pot and am in the process of making a new one.

Below is a current photo of the only other Chickasaw plum in my collection. This is how is looks as of this morning. I am in the process of sorting out the apex so please excuse the mess. If anyone has any suggestions please feel free to speak up. Both trees were collected in 1993 along with many of the others that were not so lucky. All the dead wood you see on both trees is compliments of the borers.

Here is a good example of how the amount of sun the tree recieves each day affects the way it flowers. The tree shown above was grown all year in full sun. The one shown below only received sun until approx. 11:30 am each day. Hardly any flowers at all.

Regards,
Paul

 

[pjkatich]

Fantastic flowers on that one Paul!!!!
Do you air layer or just do cuttings?
Irene

Thanks Irene, both of these trees were collected in 1993.

I have never tried to air layer or strike any cuttings from this species.

I have attached a couple macro photos of the flowers.

Enjoy,
Paul

 

[irene_b]

Absolutely Breathtaking!!! Thank You for posting them.
Irene

 

[R_F]

The one shown below only received sun until approx. 11:30 am each day. Hardly any flowers at all.

I really like the trunk line on this one. And, I know the dead wood was made by pests but it really works with the design. I would love to see it in person. The bend(s) in the trunk near the apex looks like photos wouldn't do it justice.

 

[R_F]

Thanks for the compliment. I think this tree is heading in a positive direction. However, I'm not satisfied with the current pot and am in the process of making a new one.

Personally, I would like to see the tree tilted to the right and the first bend brought closer to the base of the trunk. To me it would make the straight portion less jolting to the eye.

I'm guessing, you must have made the pot it is currently in? It's a nice pot, but you're right that this tree would work well with another design. Maybe a rustic sphere or half-moon shape?

 

[R_F]

Paul,

Since I'm on a posting spree...

Being that I have just repotted my tree for the first time and greatly reduced the root ball, do you think I would be safe with wiring the branches to shape this year?

Last year was the first time I wired it. I waited until it finished its first growth spurt of spring and wired it to shape and then lightly pruned the branches that were too long.

Thanks,
Ryan

 

[Jay Wilson]

Paul,
The second tree is amazing! The trunk movement and deadwood.....Wow.

Thanks for sharing your experiences with this plum. Seeing yours and Ryans has convinced me I've got to get a couple.

 

[pjkatich]

Personally, I would like to see the tree tilted to the right and the first bend brought closer to the base of the trunk. To me it would make the straight portion less jolting to the eye.

Bending the trunk would be hard to do at this point in the trees life. Old wood is hard and brittle and there is dead wood that flows through that juncture which would make that type of bend almost impossible without causing damage to the tree. At this time, the main objective is to keep the tree healthy and alive. The tree has its short comings, but all collected trees do. What makes me the happiest is that I have been able to keep it alive in a pot for so long. I am not aware of any other Chickasaw plum bonsai that have survived this long.

I'm guessing, you must have made the pot it is currently in? It's a nice pot, but you're right that this tree would work well with another design. Maybe a rustic sphere or half-moon shape?

Yes, that is one of my pots and I appreciate the compliment. I will keep your suggestions for a new pot in mind as I move forward. Either idea would work well.

In regards to your question on wiring. I would go easy on the tree this year. I would let it grow unchecked to regain its strength and to get established in the new pot. The branches will remain plyable for several seasons before they get to brittle to wire.

Cheers,
Paul

 

[pjkatich]

The second tree is amazing! The trunk movement and deadwood.....Wow..

Thanks Jay, this one has been a labor of love. It has never been wired, all the movement has been accomplish through clip and grow methods. All the dead wood is natural, courtesy of those pesky borers.

Thanks for sharing your experiences with this plum. Seeing yours and Ryans has convinced me I've got to get a couple.

Your most welcome and I look forward to seeing what you can come up with.

Good Luck,
Paul

 

[R_F]

Bending the trunk would be hard to do at this point in the trees life. Old wood is hard and brittle and there is dead wood that flows through that juncture which would make that type of bend almost impossible without causing damage to the tree.

Why didn't I think about that!? It is still a great tree.

In regards to your question on wiring. I would go easy on the tree this year. I would let it grow unchecked to regain its strength and to get established in the new pot. The branches will remain plyable for several seasons before they get to brittle to wire.

Good to know. Thanks!

 

[R_F]

Problem



I checked the tree this morning (as I do all my trees every morning) and this is what I saw on the leaves. Any idea what it could be?