Confession: I stole a massive azalea from a local nursery.

[JackHammer]

I mean, I paid the 35 bucks but it should have cost double or triple what I paid, just on size alone. The thing is 4x4 and too big to fit into the trunk of an suv. It also had a nice 3 inch trunk with beautiful lower branching. There were many more plants with unusually large trunks. I need to go back with a trailer.

NE Ohio if anyone is interested or passing through.

 

[_#1_]

Cool. How's the surface roots on these? Most I've seen are a bunche for trunks growing from one spot.

 

[BobbyLane]

I mean, I paid the 35 bucks but it should have cost double or triple what I paid, just on size alone. The thing is 4x4 and too big to fit into the trunk of an suv. It also had a nice 3 inch trunk with beautiful lower branching. There were many more plants with unusually large trunks. I need to go back with a trailer.

NE Ohio if anyone is interested or passing through.

I get it man, sometimes price tags just magically swap places with one another, its happened to me too

 

[Gabler]

Pics?

 

[JackHammer]

Pics?

I am sure there will be some criticism. It will need work for sure but I feel like there is at least a little potential. If you have any recommendations, I am all ears. It is pretty late in the season, so I probably won't touch it till the spring.

 

[JackHammer]

Cool. How's the surface roots on these? Most I've seen are a bunche for trunks growing from one spot.

Yeah, it is really easy to give yourself reverse taper. This is a lot of trunks so not exactly an exception. I have seen people make "whips" which are just very long sacrifice branches to create taper. Azaleas back bud easily.

 

[JackHammer]

The branch shooting off on the left is the very tall branch.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Nice! Is there a tag? If so what cultivar is this tree?

At this point, as the tree looks healthy and robust and not too late in the year, it might be wise to start making a plan for selective structural pruning. Then do so once the weather breaks. (Doing this now will save you 1/2 a year and also avoids one trying to prune and repot at the same time, endangering the tree. A double bonus)

The key things we do for late summer/early pruning.

a. Remove all suckers. These are straight branches emanating from the nebari and around the tree.

b. Take all new branches off the bottom sides of main branches

c. Cut all multiple branch junctions “esp. cartwheels” and leave a bifurcation (two branch’s per junction).

d. Selectively push back long branch tips to innermost green growth. Leave more if in doubt. Do not cut back to bare wood at this time of the year.

Pruning Methods: Make all cuts flush and seal all wounds with Top Jin cutpaste. Use a chisel or grafting knife etc to make flush. Once large cuts are dry place brown “green top” cut putty on top of the Top Jin to cover the entire wound plus some.

Then the next track is to make a wintering over plan. One might want to check this link out and download the resource.

https://www.bonsainut.com/resources/overwintering-bonsai-–-theory-planning-and-case-studies-azalea-focus.49/

Good luck!
DSD sends

 

[JackHammer]

Nice! Is there a tag? If so what cultivar is this tree?

At this point, as the tree looks healthy and robust and not too late in the year, it might be wise to start making a plan for selective structural pruning. Then do so once the weather breaks. (Doing this now will save you 1/2 a year and also avoids one trying to prune and repot at the same time, endangering the tree. A double bonus)

The key things we do for late summer/early pruning.

a. Remove all suckers. These are straight branches emanating from the nebari and around the tree.

b. Take all new branches off the bottom sides of main branches

c. Cut all multiple branch junctions “esp. cartwheels” and leave a bifurcation (two branch’s per junction).

d. Selectively push back long branch tips to innermost green growth. Leave more if in doubt. Do not cut back to bare wood at this time of the year.

Pruning Methods: Make all cuts flush and seal all wounds with Top Jin cutpaste. Use a chisel or grafting knife etc to make flush. Once large cuts are dry place brown “green top” cut putty on top of the Top Jin to cover the entire wound plus some.

Then the next track is to make a wintering over plan. One might want to check this link out and download the resource.

https://www.bonsainut.com/resources/overwintering-bonsai-–-theory-planning-and-case-studies-azalea-focus.49/

Good luck!
DSD sends

This is really great feedback. I have viewed a number of your threads and I appreciate your insight and encouragement. I will plan on some trimming soon.

The pdf is new to me but much needed and at the exact right time! I didn't know about the splitting trunks with cold and that happened to a different one last winter. I feel like it was called a lacebark (so I was expecting some crinkley bark) but I also know that is also a type of elm so maybe I am mistaken on the variety.

Thanks again.

 

[crab apple]

The root ball on these isn't usually something you can just rake out, the ones I've dealt with were huge masses that had to be cut into a manageable size, all the ones I have tried have died, Good luck but I am curios to know what your plan is to reduce the roots. I'm not sure of the variety I got but they were 3 gallon azaleas from Lowes and HD. I don't have much experience with azaleas so that could be the problem. I'm really just trying to learn myself.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

This is really great feedback. I have viewed a number of your threads and I appreciate your insight and encouragement.
Thanks again.

You’re most welcome. The goal here is everybody gets better.

The root ball on these isn't usually something you can just rake out, the ones I've dealt with were huge masses that had to be cut into a manageable size, all the ones I have tried have died,
. I don't have much experience with azaleas so that could be the problem. I'm really just trying to learn myself.

No worries. This is entirely possible to do and have the tree survive and flourish. But timing and technique are needed.

Check out this thread

Azalea Wars 1 - Waterwashing Roots - Satsuki and other Azaleas - From an Inquisitive person

Gosh, I’m always mystified with the different information I get from various sources, online, books by “experts” articles written by practitioners. For only one example, well two, and not to take this as a knock please, it’s just an example of the confusion I have faced in the past five years...

www.bonsainut.com

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[crab apple]

Good advice, gives me new hope.I'll get some more and give it a go.

 

[Glaucus]

Seems to me that the best option is to make the base of the trunk a centerpiece. Even though it doesn't look very traditional. It is what you have. It might not be kokufu quality, but it is age and character so you use it.
Trying to either hide it or correct it short term seems to be inferior. If you are skilled at creating some foliade pads on branches above or behind the trunk base, it will look pretty good. But that for sure is a challenge in itself.
I would be careful of pruning away the very thick branches, creating huge scars. Especially if they are on your front. Better to keep awkward thick branches with reverse taper. And then try to see if you have the skill to shape the foliage pads to offset the rowdy part.

You can clean out some stuff right now, as DSD says, and then come late winter, you have some big decisions to make.

 

[JackHammer]

The root ball on these isn't usually something you can just rake out, the ones I've dealt with were huge masses that had to be cut into a manageable size, all the ones I have tried have died, Good luck but I am curios to know what your plan is to reduce the roots. I'm not sure of the variety I got but they were 3 gallon azaleas from Lowes and HD. I don't have much experience with azaleas so that could be the problem. I'm really just trying to learn myself.

I have killed a few and finally been able to keep them alive and thriving for 2 consecutive seasons. This is the first "big" tree that I have found that I think I can actually do something with. Most of my other trees are relatively young.

As far as the roots, I generally like exposed roots but I don't think I will go that way with this one. I will sort those out in the spring.

 

[JackHammer]

Nice! Is there a tag? If so what cultivar is this tree?

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Nice!

That’s cold hardy azalea that is medium in size, so it should be perfect for a bonsai in your area.

It will need protection during the winter.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[snowman04]

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I am sure there will be some criticism. It will need work for sure but I feel like there is at least a little potential. If you have any recommendations, I am all ears. It is pretty late in the season, so I probably won't touch it till the spring.

I would say you did steal it...

 

[JackHammer]

Nice!

That’s cold hardy azalea that is medium in size, so it should be perfect for a bonsai in your area.

It will need protection during the winter.

Cheers
DSD sends

Dsd- so I read through the overwintering guidelines and they are very thorough. The only question I have is- if they are so sensitive, why not bring them inside like a tropical? ...assuming adequate space and light of course.

 

[dbonsaiw]

Yeah, it is really easy to give yourself reverse taper.

Tell me about it. A few donuts and some beer and I have reverse taper.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Dsd- so I read through the overwintering guidelines and they are very thorough. The only question I have is- if they are so sensitive, why not bring them inside like a tropical? ...assuming adequate space and light of course.

Good question! So why shouldn’t one overwinter an azalea in a tropical set up?

Yes, one certainly could, if they would want to put up with all the issues of bringing and outside plant inside (fungus, bugs, light, root rot etc),… for one year… possibly a second (pushing it though)… at this point most likely the plant would begin a decline that would be hard to combat.

The main reason is almost all evergreen azaleas (there are always exceptions) need a required period of cold dormancy to muster their resources etc… for another growing season. (I think that’s in the dormancy write up somewhere). Anyways without the dormancy the tree gets run down... using up its stores until it’s running on empty.

We’ve overwintered a lot of azalea whips and some trees on heat mats with lights over the years in the garage. Never more than a winter for just this reason… and oh yes… all those fungus gnats that seem to miraculously appear!

On the other hand, Azaleas aren’t Shrinking Violets, many cultivars in ground are pretty hardy, but putting an azalea in a bonsai pot makes the tree much less hardy. Also most can’t take extended spells below perhaps 28F without damage in an ideal location. And self inflicted damage to one’s trees is anathema to good bonsai practice.

(This is very similar to deciduous bonsai trees - freezes inflect damage to the fine branching refinement we work so hard to create. In fact all the pros up here cold frame or cold greenhouse most all their bonsai for just this reason. Plus the attractive bonus of lengthening the growing season.)

btw: The reason why I hesitate to put a specific safe temperature is there are too many damage-causing variables in addition to temperature that could compound damage… wind, sun, rain on snow events etc….

In addition extended freezes also cause fine root damage, especially in the outer rim of the pot. This has a couple results. Roots have to come out of dormancy before the branches can grow (but not budding), so development hindered is shortening the growing season. Also azaleas don’t like to grow new roots in areas with dead roots… thus the effective root mass decreases …. and pockets of dead roots form.

Hope that answers your question.

Maybe @Glaucus might add his thoughts too?

cheers
DSD sends