Elk'Adori Bunjin Design Help needed

ghues

Omono
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First pic orientation(main branch to rt). Trunk has plenty of interest and if desired can add dead wood later on. Keep all 3 trunks but put smallest in back for depth perspective. Add movement to both small trunks and let #2 regain some height above #3. Main branch on main trunk let lower 1/4 or so sweep more out to side. Top main branch opposite 1st branch(or main main branch)keep/bring down more and consider removing trunk above it. Huge removal and would consider long before doing. Less is more in many or most literati and will grow more foliage before long;).
Thanks for the many suggestions.......have considered the less is more so that's why I'm leaning towards removing the two smaller stems, compared to the main trunk they do not show any age.
Here is a better photo from a better front? Exploring the base I noticed some roots very close to the two much small "limbs" so I may be able to remove them with a set of there own roots?
 

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Potawatomi13

Imperial Masterpiece
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Smaller trunks look younger and smaller which gives larger trunk appearance of greater size/age. Once gone long relatively straight trunk is completely exposed as to its faults;).
 

Jester217300

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I like the small trunks. I'd remove the drop branch on the main trunk instead.

Right now you have green in every 1/3 of the tree. You are suggesting removing the green from the bottom 1/3. Removing the drop branch would remove the green from the middle 1/3 of the tree. Placing the negative space in the middle of the tree creates a less symmetrical and more dynamic visual aesthetic.
 

Chris Swink

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Hi Folks,
Here is a tree that I’d appreciate some design help with.
I’ve called it Elkadori Bunijn (Mountain Hemlock=Tsuga mertensiana), collected in 2012. It was located next to an Elk trial and from the damage to the trunk it appears that a bull Elk used it to rub its antlers on (territorial marking or to scrap off its felt?) or it could be damage by trampling by the Elk herds (hooves) as the trial is heavily used = migratory trail.
I do like the trunk damage (shari) as a focal point (side 3) but I’m not sure if I’ll keep the smaller two trees (branches from its base) but I can make that decision later.
Here are 4 shots (from each side of grow box and one of the shari.
Thanking you in advance for any assistance you can give me on a future design. It will be in this box for at least this year and maybe go into one of my Roger Snipes round literati pots.
Cheers
Graham
I like pic 8 as the front. I would get rid of the lower baby trunks. Just my opinion though. Bery nice tree
 

ghues

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I like the small trunks. I'd remove the drop branch on the main trunk instead.

Right now you have green in every 1/3 of the tree. You are suggesting removing the green from the bottom 1/3. Removing the drop branch would remove the green from the middle 1/3 of the tree. Placing the negative space in the middle of the tree creates a less symmetrical and more dynamic visual aesthetic.

Thanks for the ideas Bobby. The big issue that I see with the lower whips (which are actually lower branches) is that they don't have any age. Once these are removed (and it gets planted in a proper pot, like a nanban) the tree should appear much taller and hopefully be more in line with the literati look I'm hoping to achieve. Initially I really liked the drop branch but the longer it grows the more I'm unsure......will get some other ideas as I'm taking it to our club meeting next week.
Cheers Graham
 

ghues

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I liked Si Nguyen's idea but it looks like it might be difficult to achieve.

I really like Si's ability to come up with potential designs and I looked at trying it but didn't see how it could work....that's why sometimes imagination is undone but reality. However, I do have two more Yamadori Mtn Hemlock that were growing in a cascade form so I may still be able to use Si's design concept on ones of those. G
 

ghues

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"Singing in the Rain"........not exactly......more like repotting in the rain.......living in these parts you have to endure the amount of rainy days we get.........one advantage is you don't have to worry about the rootball drying out during the operation.lol.
Speaking of which....today I took off the two smaller stems/trunks.

Here are some photos showing the various steps.
Photo# 1 - showing swelling buds indicating spring activity.....
Photo# 2 - shows the base were the two lower stems join, they had some roots.....used a small saw to remove them from the main tree....added sealer to the cut exposed area.
Photo # 3- shows the two removed stems which I potted up (pumice, shredded sphagnum, and decomposed bark) hoping that it will make it.
Photo # 4- shows the removal area and the main rootball...
Photo # 5 - Gently cut away the bark from the stub then.....cut away most of the stub, then I used a bent knife to gouge out a hollow, then bent the bark over the hollow, sealing the small area that was still exposed. Held back in place with small tacks.
Photo # 6 - shows the main tree in a Roger Snipes (Spokane WA.) pot......it will be kept in filtered light for a while.
I won't touch it all summer......may do some wiring in late winter.....depending on health.
Live or die I'll post the results in the fall.
Cheers
Graham
 

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ghues

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Time for the update.
Unfortunately the removed lower branches did not survive however, their contact location with the main stem is healing nicely (a little more lumby than I like) but it should be in the back. It’s in a new Roger Snipes drum pot (not a nanban which I need to find), after repotting, it was kept in the shade all summer and then given full sun once the summer heat left us in late August. As you can see, moss up here volunteers like crazy but it didn’t impede water penetration. Wiring and shaping to be done later this winter.
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Pachycaul

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Didn't think I'd like it as much with sub-trunks removed, but what do I know?Definitely a better literati design now, more aloof and "above it all." Great job with a yamadori!
 
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