Extended season starting trees indoors

Sorry i feel like i have so many more questions this time round,

How do you drain the solution from the grow bed to the sump? How often does it circulate? is it all day and night?
There is two bulkheads to purchase after drilling the hole in the EBB&FLOW TABLE.
The one powerful submersible pump is to circulate all the time……..the other slightly less powerful pump pumps water up to the table while it drains at same time…..there is extensions that alter the height of the bulkhead fittings to controle drain depth…..very simple once you see it.
Then when you turn the fill pump off it drains throught that pump and also the drain bulkhead


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MORE IMPROVEMENTS


I realized testerday I don’t need the smart tray inserts that are used for stonewool so I removed them to have the Rootpouch sitting directly into the flood table.They are actually made for this as there is recessed channels to collect and drain the water.
This is an improvement because I am not able to flood the table deeply enough to rise 4” over the smart tray inserts.

I am excited for these because they are planted with large roots already and no trimming to set them back.
Since growing in perlite I will probably increase fertilizer strength more than I usually do….but also the addition of Humic acid will hold onto nutrients really well.Humic acid is a great chelator for open grow medias like this.It s also a very good ph buffer! My ph has been stable at around 6.0 since I mixed it with only needing a little bit of ph adjuster before the daily watering.

I water daily in the evening and in the morning I do a light top watering with a pump spray just so the top 1/2” of perlite does not dry excessively.The roots are just below the perlite and I want them moist at all times.
I mix just a tiny bit of humic acid @1/64 tsp per gallon and 1/64 tsp yucca powder for a natural fungicide.I add the tiny bit of humic acid just to add ions to the pure water….Humic acid is fantastic for this in hydroponics.

I love how the roots are spread laterally into the Rootpouch…..These will grow very fast and there is room around each pot to really fill in over the next 6 months!!!

Nice and warm at around 85 degrees usually!
Extra co2 @ 800 ppm

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WATERING TONIGHT

I like these so much I post almost every night!
Exciting stuff.
I can tell by the looks of these they are really getting ready to grow.
This open media and Rootpouch gets them going sooo much faster.
I plant about 15 a day so will be done in 2 weeks!IMG_6213.jpegIMG_6214.jpegIMG_6215.jpegIMG_6218.jpegIMG_6217.jpegIMG_6216.jpeg
 
WATERING TONIGHT

I like these so much I post almost every night!
Exciting stuff.
I can tell by the looks of these they are really getting ready to grow.
This open media and Rootpouch gets them going sooo much faster.
I plant about 15 a day so will be done in 2 weeks!
HAha... just like when I was learning to grow pot. I hope you don't mind me mentioning it, but when I got started it was all just so... Exciting!... all the time. lol
 
MORE AND MORE EVERYDAY!

These certainly are green.I am glad they are being all root started at the same time regardless whether they are transplanted at the same time or not….While being in a pre-transplant flat they are still being prepared in a roots first approach by the addition of mono ammonium phosphate.
This can achieve 20% more roots at the very begining in the first 2-3 weeks only.

These are stable enough I will begin foliar feeding also with the fulvic acid/kelp to keep them stocky and budding good.

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MORE AND MORE

I missed two days of planting, but all is well.
These are very green so that's always a good sign.
Never going back to starting cuttings in the stonewool.Perlite blows away the competition.VERY FAST TAKEOFF FOR SURE!20250925_221238~2.jpg20250925_221202~2.jpg20250925_205928~2.jpg20250925_204846~2.jpg
 
INCREASED THE LIGHT INTENSITY AND CO2 TO MATCH THE 85 DEGREE HEAT

I am getting my ppfd reader repaired at Apogee Instruments Inc.That is the brand.A rather expensive ppfd reader made for led lights only.It is very nice and takes the guesswork out of led light intensity for different growth stages.You can actually give e too much light if not supplying addition co2.There is a point when co2 will become the limiting factor to growth.
Anyhow until then I made an approximate adjustment by using factory ppfd charts from HLG LIGHTING...THE LED BRAND .

They are starting to get that really thick leaved appearance to them that I have only ever noticed in co2 fertilized grows.
It is very pronounced in the first leaves that start to appear being 3x wider than regular outdoor seedlings and cuttings,it's just starting to begin .....VERY AWESOME!!!
This can be noticed in the meristem growth in the first 3 pictures.

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INCREASED THE LIGHT INTENSITY AND CO2 TO MATCH THE 85 DEGREE HEAT

I am getting my ppfd reader repaired at Apogee Instruments Inc.That is the brand.A rather expensive ppfd reader made for led lights only.It is very nice and takes the guesswork out of led light intensity for different growth stages.You can actually give e too much light if not supplying addition co2.There is a point when co2 will become the limiting factor to growth.
Anyhow until then I made an approximate adjustment by using factory ppfd charts from HLG LIGHTING...THE LED BRAND .

They are starting to get that really thick leaved appearance to them that I have only ever noticed in co2 fertilized grows.
It is very pronounced in the first leaves that start to appear being 3x wider than regular outdoor seedlings and cuttings,it's just starting to begin .....VERY AWESOME!!!
This can be noticed in the meristem growth in the first 3 pictures.

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I love watching this! Thanks for sharing...
 
INCREASED THE LIGHT INTENSITY AND CO2 TO MATCH THE 85 DEGREE HEAT

I am getting my ppfd reader repaired at Apogee Instruments Inc.That is the brand.A rather expensive ppfd reader made for led lights only.It is very nice and takes the guesswork out of led light intensity for different growth stages.You can actually give e too much light if not supplying addition co2.There is a point when co2 will become the limiting factor to growth.
Anyhow until then I made an approximate adjustment by using factory ppfd charts from HLG LIGHTING...THE LED BRAND .

They are starting to get that really thick leaved appearance to them that I have only ever noticed in co2 fertilized grows.
It is very pronounced in the first leaves that start to appear being 3x wider than regular outdoor seedlings and cuttings,it's just starting to begin .....VERY AWESOME!!!
This can be noticed in the meristem growth in the first 3 pictures.

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Are you using compressed CO2?
 
Yup just welders co2.....I never had an issue
Well... co2 is CO2... same same, lol.... kidding

There are other ways to produce it though.

It was a stupid impulsive question really, lol. After all the time I've spent on this site, I haven't gotten used to the fact that you can only edit for a short period of time. I did actually come back because it's a ridiculous question... couldn't change it by that time though.

Sorry for the dumb waste of time. :) Just ignore me.
 
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I guess I was thinking about the heat relationship, and that maybe a large block of dry ice might help in both regards. 🤷‍♂️
Yeah I often wonder to just put a hose vent with a regulated fan from my home to the growhouse.......it's usually quite high in a small home.....people breathe 450000ppm every exhale!!
My home is usually around 900 or so when everyone is home.
 
I get the relationship between light and CO2, but why do you have to increase them with increasing temperature? At what point does the heat top out and stop giving you better growth?
The instructions I learned from state with co2 you can increase temperature to 84f if using co2......normal without additional co2 is 75-80f.
Heat does increase photosynthetic energy.So a big win if you can supply additional co2.

I usually am fine with around 86f for the Japanese Black Pine..... it is a very durable tree....... With growhouse temperatures sailing over 86 You do run the risk of your water getting too warm. So you definitely want to make it cool at night. By 10 to 15 degrees cooler is ideal degrees lower ......mine is 15 to 20° difference between night and day cycles.This is sufficient. This is also where using a pure volcanic aggregate for hydroponics, comes in very handy. When your grouse house gets warm like this, there is less room for error with oxygen starved hot water, letting strange pathogens, which are everywhere.... naturally grow. So when you're grow house is running this temperature say 85 to the day and 70 at night your water will stay around seventy four degrees , which is nice.
 
IT IS FUN RAMPING THE ENVIRONMENT!!


I am so syked with this.The pure hydro method using the perlite and the daily flooding of the table to soak the Rootpouches.
@ around 1.0 ec for the nutrients now.Another week of the mono ammonium phosphate root starter.I cannot use it much longer or else the ammonium nitrogen will create a calcium and magnesium deficiency.

These have lots of magnesium sulphate and calmag also.I am using humic acid on these
as it's a fantastic chelater in open soil media's too holding nutrients next to root surface.It is also a terrific addition to add mineral to the pure RO water that I use.It buffers pH really good too in hydroponics.

SO THE BIG DEAL TODAY IS I PLANTED ABOUT 65 MORE!

this is so I can get them done soon.20250927_182617.jpg20250927_130550.jpg
 
Yeah I often wonder to just put a hose vent with a regulated fan from my home to the growhouse.......it's usually quite high in a small home.....people breathe 450000ppm every exhale!!
My home is usually around 900 or so when everyone is home.
please don't patronize me
 
STARTED POTTING THE SEEDLING CUTTINGS.

I will plant the next round lower in the pots as these are a little too high to get effectively watered.Perhaps an inch or so lower.

I am amazed at the rooting quality!
100% success of every tree so far …and good roots too.

These will grow very nicely.
They will get watered daily also.

The growhouse environment is pumping too!

Perlite is the way to go for seedling cuttings…….I will reserve the grodan blocks for planting the outdoor seedlings.


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What PH do you hold in tank?
 
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