Ginkgo chop - where and when?

Paulpash

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Hi. This Gimkgo is painfully slow to put on any size - this one has been in my garden 10 years now so .... time to harvest it and at least enjoy it in a pot :)

I'd like to induce some branches down low so a few questions:

Is it OK to whack these below any active visible buds / branches and will it back bud from the trunk?

When is the best time to chop to achieve this?

Pic of the ginkgo enclosed
 

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akhater

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I don't have a lot of experience but I chop mine this spring kept only one bud and now it is leafing out just fine hoping it will backbud
 

Paulpash

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ty - will you post if it pops buds below so i have an idea about back budding please?
 

Brian Van Fleet

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You can cut it back as hard as you want. It will pop back on the trunk, and also issue suckers from the base. Early spring, just before bud break is a good time to do it. If you're trying to move it to a pot, keep in mind that the trunk growth will slow down even more.

The photo is small, but because they are slow, I'd keep as much of that trunk as you can. It has some character developing.

I collected some seeds from my college campus in '95-'96. 7 grew. When we moved, I took 3 and left 4 at a friends yard in Iowa. I'm down to 1, and because it's been in and out of the ground throughout all the moves, the trunk is about 1.5" in diameter. Those back in Iowa have been left in place, and have been chopped back almost to the ground every year for the last 15 years, and have 4" diameter trunks. But like you, I'm about ready to enjoy one of those in a pot!
 
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Vance Wood

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Were they grown from cuttings or grafts?
 

cbroad

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Were they grown from cuttings or grafts?
Is this question for me Vance? If so, it's funny you asked that because just last year I started noticing the root crown swelling much more than the trunks on my dwarf 'green pagodas', and I'm beginning to suspect they are grafted. All three are due for a repot this spring and I was going to start a thread asking the forum if they thought they are grafted or just normal swelling around the root crown.
 

cbroad

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@Driftwood
I hope you know I was just teasing about you finding a thread with active members. You were asking good questions and I too am looking for the same answers.
 

0soyoung

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I started a thread for them in 2014. Damn it's almost been five years...
Here's the thread I started for them: https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/green-pagoda-gingko.14623/

I'm not sure how I'll style them, I don't necessarily like the columnar style you typically see them styled as.
I don't particularly care for the classic 'flame' either.
I like this, however, and think it is a much more interesting kind of styling.
 

Vance Wood

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Is this question for me Vance? If so, it's funny you asked that because just last year I started noticing the root crown swelling much more than the trunks on my dwarf 'green pagodas', and I'm beginning to suspect they are grafted. All three are due for a repot this spring and I was going to start a thread asking the forum if they thought they are grafted or just normal swelling around the root crown.
I was seriously inquiring out of curiosity. The last few years I have become aware of a few Gingko cultivars that I assumed to be grafted. End result of this is the viability of growing cuttings from these obvious grafted cultivars and do they actually strike as cuttings. This brings up another question: Are these cultivars male, female, hermaphrodite (sp?), or sterile.
This could prove interesting in breeding a course of new cultivars .
 

cbroad

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I don't particularly care for the classic 'flame' either.
It's not that I don't like them, I definitely have seen very nice flame styles and I can appreciate them. The really gnarly ones with chunky bases I've seen from some of the heavy hitters here are beautiful and I would love to have them, but I wanted to try for something else. I like your example though; I guess I wanted to try to get away from the mundane and try something new, which is probably futile, but hey, I like to make my own paths!
 

Paulpash

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It's still in the ground - I chopped it to the first branch but all that popped was at the base - sucker like growth. I decided a bigger tree was needed so it's just been doing it's thing. Can't believe 6 years have passed!
 

cbroad

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End result of this is the viability of growing cuttings from these obvious grafted cultivars and do they actually strike as cuttings.
My plan is/was to get more growth out of these and strike some cuttings. When I got them, they were small and in those 4" pots. They came from a grower out west that specializes in small unique conifers and stuff, not Iseli, but another one I don't remember the name of.

I figured they were cuttings and I could easily take more, but now that I think they're grafted, this could be harder than I originally thought. I forgot to mention that another reason I think they're grafted is because one shot up a sucker from the base with the definitive bi-lobed leaves, where as the rest of the plant has little or no split leaves.

So I have to figure out first if they're grafted or not before I proceed, which I'll do during the repot and I'll probably tag you in the thread when it happens. I hope for my sake they're female. I too am interested in their viability as cuttings, and whether they propagate easily.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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@Paulpash - Ginkgo will back bud on very old wood if cut back below existing branches. But you are correct, there is a strong tendency to sprout from roots. If you remove root sprouts immediately, a few more will sprout on old bark.

This ginkgo was harvested from a weedy lot in Milwaukee back in 2010 or so. It was over 10 feet tall, and had no branches below about 5 feet tall. The seedling was at least 25, maybe 35 years old. I counted rings from another slightly smaller one harvested at the same time. Unsexed seedling from a female tree planted in the 1920's. It was dug and chopped in early spring before leaf sprouted. It takes quite a while for dormant buds under bark more than 5 years old to sprout. It was chopped in March, the first buds opened to leaves in middle of July. For that reason I suspect chopping in August (mid-summer) would not result in buds sprouting that year, but rather the following spring. Protect from extreme cold the winter after the chop.

DSCN2736.jpg ginkgo1_20181104cropped.jpg

I took possession of this one in 2016. Really have done almost nothing. As you can see, back budding was sparse, but there were at least 4 buds that became branches. A couple had sprouted from the roots, those were removed right away.

@cbroad - Most named ginkgo cultivars are propagated by grafting. Cuttings take as much as 9 months to 24 months to fully root. Because cuttings are slow, and require a ''trick or two'' all commercial nurseries propagate them by grafting. So if the ginkgo has a cultivar name it is grafted except where the advert specifically says cutting propagated. Brent at Evergreen Gardenworks does root cuttings of Chi-Chi. You can root cuttings yourself, but they will take time, my % success was zero for 20+ cuttings, taken in batches of 5 or more in 3 different years. It is not an easy species to root from cuttings. Brent is a genius and has specialized mist beds for rooting cuttings.

Grafted ginkgos, more so than maples, will heal grafting scars to the point where they are no longer visible. Especially for normal size and semi-dwarf cultivars the graft union will disappear entirely with time. This bodes well for using grafted female ginkgo clones as bonsai. Some dwarf and miniature ginkgo the growth rates will be different enough that the scion will become obvious as the understock will grow faster than the scion. But grafted trees are pretty much the only source for named cultivars.
I might have the exact measurement wrong, but I think I'm pretty close to accurate on the measurements below;
Semi-Dwarf trees grow less than 10 inches per year
Dwarf trees grow less than 6 inches per year
Miniature trees grow less than 2 inches per year.

So there is nothing wrong with using a grafted ginkgo for bonsai.

Female ginkgo.
I had the opportunity to eat boiled ginkgo nuts, as is and used in soups, stuffing for chicken, and in a gravy for beef. They are delicious. This got me fired up about raising a ginkgo for nuts, and or using a female ginkgo as bonsai. Imagine one inch diameter nuts hanging in a shohin size ginkgo. I was disappointed when I realized that like the North American hickories, Ginkgo need to be over 30 years old from seed before they begin flowering. As bonsai, even if you have a tree of sufficient age, they tend to need to be fairly large trees before they will flower. You ''never'' see photos of ginkgo with seed hanging. Even from China, where commercial ginkgo seed production is common. Two reasons, both the Chinese and Japanese consider the odor of ripening fruit obnoxious, which is really only a problem when you have a tree with thousands of nuts hanging. The odor from just a few should not be an issue. Second it is very likely that female tree rarely fruit when container grown and pruned to bonsai size, even larger bonsai sizes don't seem to be large enough for nut production.

So I am not trying to be a ''Debbie Downer'' but it is unlikely you will get a ginkgo to fruit and produce nuts in a container. But DAMN IT, I'm still trying. Thirty years is a long time to wait for unsexed seedlings, but I intend to live long enough.

There is always the chance of finding a precocious seedling that will bloom at an age less than 30 years. Named varieties of other species of nut trees were selected for this trait. So who knows, with enough seedlings and grafted female trees, someone might get lucky.
 
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