I need some advice for my Azaleea Satsuki

Kiddoh29

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Hello! I have this Azaleea Bonsai, whose leaves started to turn grey-brownish. I would like to know what could be the cause of this. I water it about every second day, and since 2 weeks i am using a liquid fertilizer.

I attached the images to my post.

Thank you in advance
 

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Forsoothe!

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Growing seasons around the world vary widely and it is difficult to get a perspective on what someone says when we don't know where in the world they are. If you go to the upper right hand corner and click on your Icon, you can add your location and people will be able to customize advice for you, and you might connect with another local.

You need to give more details of how long you've had this, where it's being kept, and anything you have done to your plant.


<<<<< It will show here.
 

Mapleminx

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I water mine daily depending on its needs and if it’s not due to rain anyway. They like to be damp but not soaking wet, and not too dry either. Of course it all depends on you location and climate as @Forsoothe! has already pointed out.

They prefer to be outdoors as long as it’s not too cold where you are.

edit: I should also add mine is potted in Kanuma which explains my watering schedule.
 
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rockm

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If this azalea is being kept indoors, that's the most likely source of your problems. Greying leaves can be a sign of too much water and not enough light.
 

Kiddoh29

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Hello! Thank you for your replies!

I live in germany, and at the moment the temperatures outside are around 15° C. First two months i did not have this problem, and it actually started about one week after i began to use a liquid fertilizer to water and spray the plant. I thought that it could be the cause so i stopped using it a week ago, i remived all the affected leaves, but now i saw that other leaves are forming those brownish spots on them, even some of the young little leaves.

The young sprouts are still developing, but i'm concerned about the continuos browning of the leaves, as i'm thinking it could maybe be a disease, or root rot.

What is your oppinion?

Thabk you!
 

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Kiddoh29

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The plant is in front of a wide window where it gets light the entire day, though it is not in direct sunlight. Lately it's been kind of cloudy, so the sunlight leveld were pretty low
 

sorce

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Welcome to Crazy!

Sorce
 

Mapleminx

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Mine is outside right now in 15c and is more than happy.

I don’t spray the leaves with anything unless I am treating with an insecticide or anti fungal.

My tap water is extremely hard and high alkaline so I water it with low sodium mineral water.

Right now I am watering once a day, tree is planted in pure Kanuma.

Fertilizer: currently using “Compo -Hortensien und Kameliendünger”

 
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Forsoothe!

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You can't spray ferts on the foliage every time you water, or even often. While foliage can use some spayed on leaves, that is not the normal pathway and the ability to use it is limited. The question remains what, how dilute, and how often?
 

Kiddoh29

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You can't spray ferts on the foliage every time you water, or even often. While foliage can use some spayed on leaves, that is not the normal pathway and the ability to use it is limited. The question remains what, how dilute, and how often?
So, i used the fertilizer for around two weeks, until i basically started to see these brown spots on the leaves.
I used it by every watering during this time, which meant around every second or third day.
Truth be told, i actually used around x1.5 amount of fertilizer than it is recommended on the bottle.
The type of fertilizer is the one in the attached pictures
 

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Paradox

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15c is about 60F. Satsuki can handle that just fine.

My satsuki azaleas stay outside until it drops below 35F to 40F at night and they get exposed to at least one mild frost to help trigger dormancy. Then it goes into an unheated garage for the winter where it hopefully stays below 40F.

They need cool temperatures in the winter for dormancy. They are not tropical
 

Glaucus

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Use half-strength fertilizer and stop fertilizing in September. I cannot clearly see the brown spots on the leaves.
It seems the plant looks ok, but better pictures will help. Full outdoor light, for example.

Not sure if you mention the outdoor temperature to tell us about what outdoor temperature it is experiencing. Or you tell us the argument as to why it is inside.
Outdoors is best, but protect from harsh frost.
 

Forsoothe!

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How do trees in nature that never get sprayed with ferts live? If you ate high calorie food every time you ate how would your health be affected?
 

Kiddoh29

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Use half-strength fertilizer and stop fertilizing in September. I cannot clearly see the brown spots on the leaves.
It seems the plant looks ok, but better pictures will help. Full outdoor light, for example.

Not sure if you mention the outdoor temperature to tell us about what outdoor temperature it is experiencing. Or you tell us the argument as to why it is inside.
Outdoors is best, but protect from harsh frost.
There are just a few now because i removed all the affected leaves
 

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Kiddoh29

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Thank you all for your replies.

I only hope the damage done can be repaired and it will recover.
I want to mention that I am an enthusiastic beginner in growing up a bonsai this one being my first, and also have no experience whatsoever in the domain of gardening.
So as the saying is, people learn from mistakes, I will take your advices in order to get better care of it.

Thank you!
 

Deep Sea Diver

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That’s great you are starting out on the Bonsai pathway. Welcome Aboard!

As one can see from the folks above comments, there are many really good reasons to keep your azalea bonsai outside… that’s where it belongs. Note there are some azalea that are more delicate outside then others that need better protection in cold weather. These are usually the forced bloom azaleas sold in supermarkets etc in full flower at odd times.

One of the reasons is that azaleas kept inside become leggy, just hanging on by putting out terminal foliage. This is mostly due to the lower light levels indoors …. and also temperature swing and humidity levels etc. You azalea is showing the “leggy” indoor look.

Here’s the image of the foliage of a couple healthy young azalea prebonsai out doors at this time of the year. Bursting with foliage.
First year - shaped and wired
image.jpg
Second year - getting ready to push growth back this spring to develop distinct pads
image.jpg

One item to remember is leaves are the ‘solar panels’ of the plant, Leaves produce all the energy, in the form of simple and complex carbohydrates, for your tree.

Even if leaf tips are damaged slightly, the leaf ‘solar panels’ are still producing energy the plant needs. So its best to leave these on the plant unless there is fungus or disease present. Not as aesthetically pleasing for sure, but still providing energy.

I do wonder what media, or ‘soil’ your Bonsai is in?

Finally, your fertilizer is very mild and one could use this product every other week with no harm.

One can mist azalea leaves in the morning if your water quality is good. Azaleas like the morning dew… ensure the leaves dry by noon to prevent fungus though. If you are uncertain of your water quality …use spring water or don’t mist.

Welcome Aboard again and we look forward to seeing your future posts!

Cheers
DSD sends
 

Kiddoh29

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That’s great you are starting out on the Bonsai pathway. Welcome Aboard!

As one can see from the folks above comments, there are many really good reasons to keep your azalea bonsai outside… that’s where it belongs. Note there are some azalea that are more delicate outside then others that need better protection in cold weather. These are usually the forced bloom azaleas sold in supermarkets etc in full flower at odd times.

One of the reasons is that azaleas kept inside become leggy, just hanging on by putting out terminal foliage. This is mostly due to the lower light levels indoors …. and also temperature swing and humidity levels etc. You azalea is showing the “leggy” indoor look.

Here’s the image of the foliage of a couple healthy young azalea prebonsai out doors at this time of the year. Bursting with foliage.
First year - shaped and wired
View attachment 398705
Second year - getting ready to push growth back this spring to develop distinct pads
View attachment 398706

One item to remember is leaves are the ‘solar panels’ of the plant, Leaves produce all the energy, in the form of simple and complex carbohydrates, for your tree.

Even if leaf tips are damaged slightly, the leaf ‘solar panels’ are still producing energy the plant needs. So its best to leave these on the plant unless there is fungus or disease present. Not as aesthetically pleasing for sure, but still providing energy.

I do wonder what media, or ‘soil’ your Bonsai is in?

Finally, your fertilizer is very mild and one could use this product every other week with no harm.

One can mist azalea leaves in the morning if your water quality is good. Azaleas like the morning dew… ensure the leaves dry by noon to prevent fungus though. If you are uncertain of your water quality …use spring water or don’t mist.

Welcome Aboard again and we look forward to seeing your future posts!

Cheers
DSD sends
Thank you for your friendly welcome.

I might have just found the problem. On the trunk of the plant formed some kind of orange-ish blobs. I attach the photos to this post. Please tell me your opinnion on how should i proceed further. Is it a way to recover?
 

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Deep Sea Diver

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Honestly, I can’t see anything way out of normal. Maybe someone with sharper eyes can.

Concur with @Carol 83 the media does look wet and a bit broken down with some surface feeder roots exposed. Likely due for a repot in the next rotation. A key to watering azalea bark/peat type mixes is azaleas like to be moist, not wet. All the satsuki here in this mix get a bit dry-ish before considering light watering. In between, mist the leaves or “mist drench“ the surface a bit.

I do see what looks like dried salts on the trunk, pot and on the media, yet not a lot. Use a wet toothbrush to lightly scrub this off.

Finally one can include a tsp of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide a 3/4 L misting bottle every 3-4 weeks as a weak anti fungal preventative. This will cut down on nascent fungal activity.

Cheers
DSD sends
 
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