Moss

rockm

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This just simply isn't true. When I learned Ryan's technique last year, I was skeptical that I could grow moss in the high desert. But I tried it and it works. I water several times a day in summer and the trees are happy. Last week we had single digit humidity and the moss didn't skip a beat - except on my locust, it sucks up water really fast and the moss hasn't been the same since birds decimated it last year. It's my only tree in DE and I suspect that's a factor as well. Watering is not an issue. It soaks right in.
Here's the moss on my Blue Spruce earlier this spring, before fertilizing:
View attachment 150230
And today, with a heavy load of fertilizer:
View attachment 150229
Here's my One-seed Juniper (birds attacked it's soil last year also):
View attachment 150231

Yeah, it is true dude. At least for a lot of the people I talk to and the trees I've seen. Mostly doesn't work. Always exceptions to the rule.
 

PiñonJ

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It may work but let it go growing. Next Year peel it away carefully from the base of that plant - I can see it is damaging it already... Looks cool but sorry still not for me ;)

Grimmy
I'll keep an eye on that juniper trunk. At some point I need to get the bark off anyway.
 

PiñonJ

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Yeah, it is true dude. At least for a lot of the people I talk to and the trees I've seen. Mostly doesn't work. Always exceptions to the rule.
I don't want to keep going back and forth, but it has worked for me in a very dry climate.:cool: There is a big difference between throwing some moss on a tree and hoping it survives (it doesn't) vs. applying the technique I've described and watching the moss grow over a whole season.
 

rockm

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I don't want to keep going back and forth, but it has worked for me in a very dry climate.:cool: There is a big difference between throwing some moss on a tree and hoping it survives (it doesn't) vs. applying the technique I've described and watching the moss grow over a whole season.

The point I'm making is that growing moss is mostly a futile, impractical thing for most bonsai, beginners especially. It's not easy for most people, including me, large growths like yours tend to wither in the summer (had it happen repeatedly in July and August here, when we get average highs in the low 90s and strings of 100 degree days)

There are simply better, more effective ways to keep the entire column of soil moist in the container. Applying chopped sphagnum moss is a better alternative, I think. It's cheap, readily applied, reliable and can be removed.

I have moss on some of my trees. It is a hassle as I store my trees under mulch in the winter. That tends to kill it off, leaving behind a rotting mass that stays constantly soggy under the mulch. That's not a good thing
 

amcoffeegirl

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I recently bought some sphagnum moss online for my neofinetia orchid and its crazy but there are different qualities out there. It did cost a little more but this stuff is long strands and I love it. It's white and clean compared to the chopped and dirty stuff I'm used to seeing at the local garden center.
 

Anthony

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@kevinlovett86 ,

Kevin,

hee hee, I am afraid the philosophy given to me was --------------

[1] The pot is to tree as frame is to painting. So when I look at your effort, I see your tree and
not the pot.

[2] The original philosophy of the Chinese sages was, the plant was to stimulate the imagination
for ink painting, writing poetry and so on. Not so much as is pushed today for decoration and
exhibition.

With time you will find that the tree outgrows the design in 10 or so years and you have to re-start.

If you don't understand this, it might frustrate you so mightily,that you may just give up on Tree
Penjing / Bonsai.

All that said, if you wish to thicken the trunk of a Fukien tea it has to be ground grown. Oversize
pots don't work.

The pot is fine, but keep your mix very porous, if the pot is also vitreous [ stoneware ].

In this pot, the aim is dense foliage to the point of not being able to see through the leaves.
As I get time I will enter images into your Fukien tea post, and hopefully explain more
visually.

Try not to get into the - pot - acquisition bit too much. It's costly, no matter how little you are
spending, and the things are often hard to re-sell.
Good Day
Anthony





-
 

Johnathan

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I recently bought some sphagnum moss online for my neofinetia orchid and its crazy but there are different qualities out there. It did cost a little more but this stuff is long strands and I love it. It's white and clean compared to the chopped and dirty stuff I'm used to seeing at the local garden center.

You mean this isn't the good stuff? :eek::confused:o_O:oops:
 

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PiñonJ

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Amazon has Super Moss brand Orchid Moss (long fiber sphagnum moss) in a compressed 1 lb mini bale for $10.44. I bought one last year. It's good quality and that's a lot of moss once you hydrate it.
 

drew33998

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According to Ryan he states that it allows the tree to grow roots all the way up to the top third of the pot. This is 30 percent more strength than without it. Not a direct quote but close enough. He does state also that it can and will damage the bark if left for too long.
I found myself noticing that my roots werent occupying this zone in the pot so i decided to moss the pots. Just finished this so i will see how it goes.
We do water our trees pretty much every day so i dont think it will go unoticed lo g enough to cause serious damage.
Also ryan says the moss acts as a buffer for high doses of fertilizer. I am sure he is talking about organic ferts.
 
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