AppleBonsai
Shohin
No worry. If it were me, and the soil hasn't changed from the nursery soil, I would put it right back in the nursery container.
my first scots pine. what do you think?
- Thread starter redox1856
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leatherback
The Treedeemer
See https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/need-a-little-help.40165/
As always.. Pines prefer dry conditions. The larger the pot, the harder for the tree to keep the rootball from swimming. Add a large component of organics to the mix and you have a risk situation on your hands. Then again.. It is a matter of putting it under a rain shelter and you are in charge of how wet the roots get.
But.. I think you up-potted this tree recently, it did not need a larger pot.
As always.. Pines prefer dry conditions. The larger the pot, the harder for the tree to keep the rootball from swimming. Add a large component of organics to the mix and you have a risk situation on your hands. Then again.. It is a matter of putting it under a rain shelter and you are in charge of how wet the roots get.
But.. I think you up-potted this tree recently, it did not need a larger pot.
redox1856
Seedling
sounds good thank you
coltranem
Chumono
See you have added some wire but I don't see any movement added. It looks messy. Check out the Colin Lewis free Craftsy video in wiring. Mauro Stemberger has a nice YouTube wiring video too.
redox1856
Seedling
thank you for the advice. i moved her to a pond basket. lots of drainage
Attachments
sixemkay
Yamadori
Are those mini paper lanterns?
redox1856
Seedling
yes in the background of the garden
Japonicus
Imperial Masterpiece
Still waiting anxiously for proper answer...
If it’s a Scots pine, like Mike said....July to August is great for potting up...
if WP or 5 needles, Spring candle movement is time to pot
but OP has moved to pond basket nonetheless.
redox1856
Seedling
the tag at the nursery said it was a dwarf twisted scots pine.
I am not trying to hi-grade this thread but the above quote interests me. I have some Lodgepole and Ponderosa pines that I have collected that have longer branches that only have growth at the ends of them and I would like to "chase the foliage down the branches" as mentioned above. When does one cut off the new shoots to cause this to happen...in the spring when the shoot is brand new or after it is extended? Before needle growth or after needles extended? Thanks
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
You may consider grafting.
If so let that end go healthy.
This decision can have 2-4 years of effect.
Sorce
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
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With jack pine, and by extrapolation the related lodgepole pine, and with Ponderosa, in my experience, the best way to "chase back foliage" is to let them grow. Get them growing vigorously. They will back bud naturally. Only AFTER they naturally back bud, you can cut back to the interior buds. However you can not force back budding with any reliability. If the back buds are not there, and you cut back the terminal growth, often the branch will just die. I killed a nice Ponderosa this way. I've only worked with Ponderosa and Jack pine. Getting the tree to grow vigorously for a few years, causes back buds to form. Only cut back after the new buds are large enough to support the branch you want to chase back.
How many needles are in a “bundle”?
Paulpash
Masterpiece
I asked this on page 1, post #10. It's kinda fundamental to giving correct advice.
Japonicus
Imperial Masterpiece
...still waiting.
If you posted a better picture of the foliage I would count them myself.
The colour of bark, the presence of bark + size of trunk or the age of, negates the WP theory...I think,
but there's more WP cultivars I am not familiar with, than I am familiar with.
Paulpash
Masterpiece
I'm off to see the tallest Scots Pine in England today as well as a bunch of other 'majestics' - ancient trees with special status. I'm guessing the first branch will be too high to count its needles lol!
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redox1856
Seedling
River's Edge
Imperial Masterpiece
Thanks for posting the clearer close ups. Your tree is a scots pine in my opinion. The best way to get the foliage into the interior is to take the long view and be patient.
Fertiliser applied this fall!
Repot in march into a free draining mix.
Suitable size container for growth, grow box or anderson flat of suitable size. The newer deep version of anderson flat is a good size for most. They refer to it as a deep propogation style.
Keep in full sun and rotate the tree regularily ( once a week)
When the tree has grown a lot thicker and extended begin cut back to chase back the foliage.
The combination of interior light, fertiliser and extended growth will. Aid in the bud back process!
Short story get the tree really healthy and vigorous and keep it that way.
Fertiliser applied this fall!
Repot in march into a free draining mix.
Suitable size container for growth, grow box or anderson flat of suitable size. The newer deep version of anderson flat is a good size for most. They refer to it as a deep propogation style.
Keep in full sun and rotate the tree regularily ( once a week)
When the tree has grown a lot thicker and extended begin cut back to chase back the foliage.
The combination of interior light, fertiliser and extended growth will. Aid in the bud back process!
Short story get the tree really healthy and vigorous and keep it that way.
redox1856
Seedling
Thank you for the advice and clarification. If you don’t mind me asking how should I change the soil in March. I have read I can’t take too many roots off. I am nervous to kill it. Thanks.
