My Main Tree Purchase for the Year....JBP Advice Needed Please

LanceMac10

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I deeply appreciate those two breakdowns! I have never attempted grafting....yet.
I think I may take the latter route, I'd like to thicken it up a bit, and select some primaries....but I'm very concerned about needlecast.
I need to figure out a good way to treat what it may already have and preventative measures going forward.
I have various sprays, like Daconil and Copper and Neem....but the systemics thatbare absorbed by the roots seem to be the prevailing wisdom.

Any thoughts on that?




...didn't want to use the "G" word, since I've never done one....but you need to decide what you want it to look like....
 

just.wing.it

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I know I need to remove many branches....just want to make sure this is an ok time to do it, with new growth pushing....?
 

just.wing.it

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...didn't want to use the "G" word, since I've never done one....but you need to decide what you want it to look like....
I plan to employ @Smoke 's Stick Figure bonsai with it tonight....
I'm just freaked out about potential sap waterfalls if I cut out unwanted branches now.
 

LanceMac10

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Pretty rugged looking wheel branches. Probably remove out of proportion growth in favor of the smaller growth. Some nasty "taper" up top.

I think I would be ok with cutting in a week or two, dependent on night time temps holding in the fifties. Seal cuts on cutting, but shouldn't "bleed" too much?
 
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You could wire some of the branches downward to let in light & stimulate some inner growth. They could be good cut back points in winter. The tree looks pretty healthy, i'd lean toward a literati style wise.
 

just.wing.it

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Pretty rugged looking wheel branches. Probably remove out of proportion growth in favor of the smaller growth. Some nasty "taper" up top.

I think I would be ok with cutting in a week or two, dependent on night time temps holding in the fifties. Seal cuts on cutting, but shouldn't "bleed" too much?
Pretty rugged looking wheel branches. Probably remove out of proportion growth in favor of the smaller growth. Some nasty "taper" up top.

I think I would be ok with cutting in a week or two, dependent on night time temps holding in the fifties. Seal cuts on cutting, but shouldn't "bleed" too much?
Much appreciated input my friend.
 

River's Edge

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I deeply appreciate those two breakdowns! I have never attempted grafting....yet.
I think I may take the latter route, I'd like to thicken it up a bit, and select some primaries....but I'm very concerned about needlecast.
I need to figure out a good way to treat what it may already have and preventative measures going forward.
I have various sprays, like Daconil and Copper and Neem....but the systemics thatbare absorbed by the roots seem to be the prevailing wisdom.

Any thoughts on that?
I prefer the Bonide Infuse granular systemic. I has worked very well for needle cast. If not readily available in your area then try online with Do It Yourself Pest Control and have it shipped to your house.
 

River's Edge

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I plan to employ @Smoke 's Stick Figure bonsai with it tonight....
I'm just freaked out about potential sap waterfalls if I cut out unwanted branches now.
Simply decandle the unwanted branches for now, remove some of the foliage off them, wire them down. Then wait for the right time to remove them after you have figured out the overall! This tree is not a simple one to work with and you have lots of time. That way you open the canopy to strengthen the smaller branches, and slow down the unwanted branches. Don't forget to wire up the best thicker branch to become the apical leader.

Your priority should be treating the needle cast, yes that is what you found, and keeping the tree healthy for a fall repot. Likely 1/2 HBR, followed by the same in the spring if the response is strong. Competing strong branches can be removed late winter and sealed, prior to the second 1/2 HBR.
Note: the tree looks pretty healthy, that is a small amount of needle cast, so lots of time to order and use the systemic. I suggest a treatment when it arrives this spring and then a similar treatment 6 weeks after the first 1/2 HBR . I would do the first 1/2 HBR in mid to late august for your area.
 

just.wing.it

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Simply decandle the unwanted branches for now, remove some of the foliage off them, wire them down. Then wait for the right time to remove them after you have figured out the overall! This tree is not a simple one to work with and you have lots of time. That way you open the canopy to strengthen the smaller branches, and slow down the unwanted branches. Don't forget to wire up the best thicker branch to become the apical leader.

Your priority should be treating the needle cast, yes that is what you found, and keeping the tree healthy for a fall repot. Likely 1/2 HBR, followed by the same in the spring if the response is strong. Competing strong branches can be removed late winter and sealed, prior to the second 1/2 HBR.
Note: the tree looks pretty healthy, that is a small amount of needle cast, so lots of time to order and use the systemic. I suggest a treatment when it arrives this spring and then a similar treatment 6 weeks after the first 1/2 HBR . I would do the first 1/2 HBR in mid to late august for your area.
I was going to wait till next spring to repot, to play it safe.

@LanceMac10 I've been rocking lava pumice and Fir Bark.
I've been sketched out about buying bad Akadama....how do I know if its the good shit?
 

just.wing.it

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That way you open the canopy to strengthen the smaller branches, and slow down the unwanted branches. Don't forget to wire up the best thicker branch to become the apical leader.
I think something like this is in order for this evening after the kid goes nighty-nite.
 

Japonicus

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Simply decandle the unwanted branches for now, remove some of the foliage off them,
+1 send vigour to other areas you're keeping.
I would make sure the systemic was in use prior to cutting anything (what copper are you using @just.wing.it ?).
Leave the stub too to dry out and +1 on the cut paste right upon cut.

Sterilize
I use a pickle jar, to hold a tall shot glass that I pre and post soak my tools in.
Otherwise the shot glass falls over ;)
Then my wife lets me use her cotton-like make up rounds to clean the edge of sap and disease then trash them.
Don't reuse a rag on your tools.
 

LanceMac10

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Smoke it? 😁 😁 😁 😁

But seriously, if you have to, go on-line and get some pre-packaged stuff from a well known and respected source. Yes, stupid money, but I'm telling you, no regrets.
 

just.wing.it

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+1 send vigour to other areas you're keeping.
I would make sure the systemic was in use prior to cutting anything (what copper are you using @just.wing.it ?).
Leave the stub too to dry out and +1 on the cut paste right upon cut.

Sterilize
I use a pickle jar, to hold a tall shot glass that I pre and post soak my tools in.
Otherwise the shot glass falls over ;)
Then my wife lets me use her cotton-like make up rounds to clean the edge of sap and disease then trash them.
Don't reuse a rag on your tools.
I have this copper....which is a liquid.
20200429_185720.jpg

And this sulfur, which is powder....
20200429_185737.jpg

Honestly I've never used either....but maybe I should learn.
Is the copper liquid similar to what @River's Edge was referencing?
 

Japonicus

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2 Oz size should last a long time. Sleeve, and glove up.
I'm using 1/3 tsp/qt or 1/2 tsp/36 or so Oz of water.
Using its' own little 50 Oz sprayer, I not conceded with blending chemicals inside.
I'm not sure if the "copper soap" is systemic or not, but the copper sulphate pentahydrate is.
I wish I could find @Adair M s thread on don't let needle cast start. A link would be helpful.
It's a great read on timing and the effort. pretty sure he uses Clearys.
There's a picture of the JBP I lost to needle cast in that thread.
The neem oil, I doubt would be very beneficial for whatever fungicidal offerings it has.
DSC_4248.JPG
 

River's Edge

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I was going to wait till next spring to repot, to play it safe.

@LanceMac10 I've been rocking lava pumice and Fir Bark.
I've been sketched out about buying bad Akadama....how do I know if its the good shit?
More recent supplies of Double Red Line brand have been much harder and work well. It is the only brand I use, seems readily available in the PNW and some locations in Canada.
 

Adair M

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2 Oz size should last a long time. Sleeve, and glove up.
I'm using 1/3 tsp/qt or 1/2 tsp/36 or so Oz of water.
Using its' own little 50 Oz sprayer, I not conceded with blending chemicals inside.
I'm not sure if the "copper soap" is systemic or not, but the copper sulphate pentahydrate is.
I wish I could find @Adair M s thread on don't let needle cast start. A link would be helpful.
It's a great read on timing and the effort. pretty sure he uses Clearys.
There's a picture of the JBP I lost to needle cast in that thread.
The neem oil, I doubt would be very beneficial for whatever fungicidal offerings it has.
View attachment 299427
I spray with Copper fungicide and Daconil, alternating between the two. I also use a systemic granular fungicide Bonide Infuse granular fungicide. It has the same active ingredient as Cleary’s 3336.
 

River's Edge

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I have this copper....which is a liquid.
View attachment 299424

And this sulfur, which is powder....
View attachment 299425

Honestly I've never used either....but maybe I should learn.
Is the copper liquid similar to what @River's Edge was referencing?
Similar only in that it is a fungicide, not a systemic fungicide. A systemic works by being transported through the roots into the vascular system, working to kill the final infection from within. The other types deal with the fungal infection on the surface only! Consider the others as preventative, but not a cure.
I used the preventative ones when I wish to keep trees from coming down with something, not after they are infected.
 
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