Oxide question

[ShadyStump]

This is a 14x11x4 that is straight RIO sprayed. I love the color and fake patina look. It’s tough to beat


View attachment 409678

So...
Should I send a link to my family for Christmas?

 

[mwar15]

So...
Should I send a link to my family for Christmas?

thanks, it was a commissioned pot for a local club member. send me a PM and we can probably make you something

 

[mwar15]

This is my first try with mason stains. I went with sage, which is kind of a grey. It wasn’t exactly what I wanted but I think it’ll look nice on a pot earth tone like. The other one is a yellow which is very bright. I understand yellow limits the trees you can have with the bright yellow pot but I want to try one. Both of them have four or five light spray coats on them to get this color. They are mixed 3 to 1 roughly with gerstly borate.



The yellow is very matte which I was hoping for. The one on the far right is very shiny and almost brown but the first couple coats are very thick. It’s very challenging to spray this as it’s almost like water and you don’t want it to drip, even though it wants to

 

[ABCarve]

Have you fired these yet?

 

[penumbra]

I have no experience with spraying oxides except to a point of run off with a spray bottle which I then wipe off. My process now uses a sponge and often a brush.

 

[NaoTK]

It’s very challenging to spray this as it’s almost like water and you don’t want it to drip, even though it wants to

Add a little flocculant like epsom salt and you can achieve a more even coat without drips. Make an epsom salt solution with water first, don't add the salt directly to your glaze.

 

[mwar15]

Have you fired these yet?

Yes

 

[penumbra]

There is so little actually in the way of solid particles in a stain as opposed to a glaze that I kinda don't think a flocculant is going to work very well. If you are looking for a nice even coat, as in a glaze, I think you are better off using a clear base glaze and adding the mason stain. You can use a glaze with a flat or a satin finish. This is the way mason stains are primarily used. Metallic oxides are another matter altogether, IMHO.
In my type of work I apply a stain or oxide and wipe it off, applying 2 to 4 layers using different compounds. I am not looking for a homogenized finish. When using mason stains, what you see is what you get. When you use oxides this is sometimes true but most often not. It is a little like doing raku in that you learn to guide the product in a certain direction and then you let it happen.
You should consider the work of Steven Hill. All his work is using multiple spray coats. I had a great friend who took one of Hill's workshops and he was making some awesome things. If you could use you stains and glazes the way he does, it would be so WOW!

 

[mwar15]

Add a little flocculant like epsom salt and you can achieve a more even coat without drips. Make an epsom salt solution with water first, don't add the salt directly to your glaze.

So add the mason stain/water mixture to the epsom salt mixture and then spray?

 

[mwar15]

There is so little actually in the way of solid particles in a stain as opposed to a glaze that I kinda don't think a flocculant is going to work very well. If you are looking for a nice even coat, as in a glaze, I think you are better off using a clear base glaze and adding the mason stain. You can use a glaze with a flat or a satin finish. This is the way mason stains are primarily used. Metallic oxides are another matter altogether, IMHO.
In my type of work I apply a stain or oxide and wipe it off, applying 2 to 4 layers using different compounds. I am not looking for a homogenized finish. When using mason stains, what you see is what you get. When you use oxides this is sometimes true but most often not. It is a little like doing raku in that you learn to guide the product in a certain direction and then you let it happen.
You should consider the work of Steven Hill. All his work is using multiple spray coats. I had a great friend who took one of Hill's workshops and he was making some awesome things. If you could use you stains and glazes the way he does, it would be so WOW!

I’m fine if the coat is solid. I also like a little light and dark areas. I’m happy with the results

 

[penumbra]

BTW, I don't actually own a piece by Steven Hill but these two pieces were made by my friend Ken who took a week long workshop. Ken is gone now, RIP.

 

[penumbra]

I’m fine if the coat is solid. I also like a little light and dark areas. I’m happy with the results

And you should be. It exemplifies your style of work beautifully.

 

[mwar15]

BTW, I don't actually own a piece by Steven Hill but these two pieces were made by my friend Ken who took a week long workshop. Ken is gone now, RIP.
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Those are great!

 

[mwar15]

And you should be. It exemplifies your style of work beautifully.

Thanks! I think this yellow would look good on the top half of a pot with a red oxide on the bottom or black on the bottom

 

[penumbra]

Thanks! I think this yellow would look good on the top half of a pot with a red oxide on the bottom or black on the bottom

It certainly would.

 

[mwar15]

I think something like this but put the top yellow

 

[penumbra]

View attachment 413030
I think something like this but put the top yellow

That is a beauty. Is it sold too?

 

[mwar15]

That is a beauty. Is it sold too?

I think it is on consignment at the local bonsai shop

 

[penumbra]

I think it is on consignment at the local bonsai shop

I know I am tired. I read barber shop, not bonsai shop. I was WHAT?

 

[mwar15]

I know I am tired. I read barber shop, not bonsai shop. I was WHAT?

Lol