Pimpin' and Shimpin'

Before shipping.FB_IMG_1523146177550.jpg

Seems the box did blue it some...
As it was bluer when it arrived.

Odd in that already today it is even greener and less soft.
Same photo from above with them side by side.20180413_170250_Burst01.jpg
Today.
20180414_093030.jpg

20180414_093124.jpg

It may be simply the weather....I am a little extra worried about this one! My old pimpin...

The new one is basically a sacrifice practice for wiring ....
But it won't serve that purpose until I can best gauge how different it is from mine.

Sorce
 
To me it looks a bit like this and looked exactly as the pre purchase photo when it was 3 inches or so tall -

IMG_1845.JPG

This one is most assuredly an Itoigawa. Never saw it Blue but the foliage is a lot brighter then the other two and will display dark and light at the same time, the lightest being the newer growth. This one went from 3 inches to 18 or so in 2 seasons, now going into season 3. Looks like crap every Winter but wakes up nicely although slowly :)

Grimmy
 
M. Frary said:
You can get it to blue up by giving it Mir acid with a touch of Epsom salts mixed in one a month or so.
Click to expand...
Have to agree here. DE should be alkaline, presenting an environmental factor.
You know some spruce and cedars shift colour back n forth...
I use that Mir-Acid now n then (now called Miracle-Gro Azalea, Camellia, Rhododendron PLANT FOOD),
but I also use Espoma Holly Tone organic. It includes 3 strains of Bacillus which can't hurt.
While pH may not be something you worry about, it does present an environmental factor as with
Shimpaku, which originates from an alkaline environment geographically.
Worth tweaking and tinkering with if you're wanting a particular colour to dominate or fade.
 
Japonicus said:
Espoma Holly Tone organic
Click to expand...

Thanks for this....I am a user and trustee of The TONES....
This will be what I use if I do. Thanks!



I guess my biggest worry now is wether or not this obvious color and texture change , as brought on by these both being kept warm all winter, then allowed to freeze for that one week before spring...
I wonder how bad this is, how lasting that effect...I just don't feel out of the woods yet.

When it comes to confusion for tree...
This drastic change is terrible...makes me very wary.

I need Shimpaku folks' input to balance what I am feeling...

Brainstorming...

Anything!

Gotta figure my "it depends"!

Thanks!

Sorce
 
sorce said:
I guess my biggest worry now is wether or not this obvious color and texture change , as brought on by these both being kept warm all winter, then allowed to freeze for that one week before spring... I wonder how bad this is, how lasting that effect...I just don't feel out of the woods yet.
Click to expand...

Did you keep it outdoors but protected? Not certain what you mean by saying kept warm.

Grimmy
 
GrimLore said:
Did you keep it outdoors but protected? Not certain what you mean by saying kept warm.

Grimmy
Click to expand...

The THG one was kept above 34f ...then I brought it home for a week of 18f before actual spring.

This one too..from MA I think, seems to have been kept above freezing, was certainly in growth when I got it...and is reverting back to a cold green...for another dip below freezing before regular spring....

Kinda fucked up...ome pf those things I read about that may stay bogging me down if I don't regain health somewhere.
One of those long game killers.

My knowledge is simply not great enough to make this balance alone and slip thru this rapidly closing window of hort and design...that...really only exists in"my world".

Sorce
 
sorce said:
This one too..from MA I think, seems to have been kept above freezing, was certainly in growth when I got it...and is reverting back to a cold green...for another dip below freezing before regular spring....
Click to expand...

Put it out in full Sun and ignore the weather. The plant will change color a few times during normal Winters here which often go from Snow which melts in the 60'sF and back to Snow, etc... They freeze and defrost a lot of times and always wake up when they are ready. The one I posted the picture here spent Winter outside and for a good portion of it was on the ground with no pot and went unnoticed until I needed to water out there. THEY are tough but easy at the same time. Leaving them out is best, and only requires covering the surface roots with substrate for protection and regular watering for good health. Also, that foliage looked uneven and was a few different colors after I slip potted it a few days ago and put it back in full sun. It bounced back evenly... That brings to mind I do rotate them all at least weekly during growing season which also keeps the color even. They are also easier to me in that as long as they are healthy I never acclimate them to Winter as I do with a lot of other plants.

Grimmy
 
Made some pruning decisions today.

Took these 20180429_160227.jpg

from here....
20180429_160243_HDR.jpg

And these...20180429_160307.jpg

From here...20180429_160258_HDR.jpg

And took the runner off of what will be my lower of 2 trunk apices.
20180429_160328_HDR.jpg

Fittin to wire it after spring growth.

Sorce
 
Hey Sorce do you have any sweet juni online articles/vids you found helpful? Im lusting for some more Juni knowledge rn.
 
Brian Van Fleet said:
swole
Click to expand...

20180902_084632.jpg
20180902_084641.jpg

I sat down with this one after seeing your time-capsule shape up so well in 3!

Cut it hard a couple days ago. Shari.
Pulled this branch up today for a new trunkline..

I may keep the bigger one behind it too....
But it lost some key branches from the pee.

S
 
I didn't realize how much trunk this thing is putting on. These seem highly efficient. I still have no clue how juniper grow, so I still am pretty hesitant to commit to one of bloody 12 different equally bitchin paths. When I hope something will die, it just keeps presenting more options.

The largest dilemma that gave me pause this spring, ( I almost layered a trunk), is almost certainly, one of the two outside trunk must go, but I so so so don't want half the rootspread to die. it will lose all "impact".
Maybe a layer is a good idea, since it is a slow process, and new routes can be established? Maybe leave it on purposely for 2 years?

After that dilemma, well, I could remove the middle trunk, but don't want to do all the carving and cranking it would take to get the outside 2 in good positions, but I could even use all 3, one of any of the three, any 2.......

_DSC0004.JPG

_DSC0005.JPG

_DSC0006.JPG_DSC0007.JPG

Bout to repot it this year I reckon.

Sorce
 
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