Preparing larger deciduous trees for collection

mrcasey

Shohin
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WV
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Over the past several springs, I’ve been trying to collect hornbeam, beech, crab apple, black cherry, and hawthorn. At the time of collection, I’ll chop the trunks down to about 3 feet (so that they fit in the car). The trees usually break bud in early summer and leaf out. After having leafed out, however, many of the trees die in mid summer. Also, the trunks on my crabs and hawthorns tend to crack and split down the middle.

I’ve considered doing the initial chop the winter before collection in order to minimize cutting on the tree at the time of collection. Does this seem like a good idea to anyone? Should I do a longer or more extensive pre-prep before I dig?

Thanks,
Casey
 
If you can do a pre-collection prep....work on the roots more. The more fine roots you collect the bigger your chances of survival will be.

I would also apply cut paste on the chop area to minimize sap loss. You need to save as much as you can to help the tree. I know some will disagree but it seem to work for me. Good luck!!!
 
Most likely it's not the height to which the trunks were chopped, but rather the quality/quantity of the roots that were collected.

If you were to do anything to "prep" a tree for lifting, it would be to chop it down (3' is way too tall; even an 18" trunk section should finish out as a pretty tall tree) in the late winter/early spring.

Then cut a trench around the trunk about 8"-10" out from the trunk, severing any heavy roots as you dig/cut around it, and slightly under it. Then, the following spring, go back and collect it, taking a slightly wider root ball than you initially cut. New feeder roots will have grown closer to the trunk and at the cut sites. This helps to ensure you collect sustaining roots, rather than leave them in the ground.

FWIW, black cherry probably isn't worth the effort. Crabs, hornbeam, and hawthorn are very good.
 
Early on I learned by mistakes to cut the trunk on site pretty much right where it will be for the design. I did not do this on the first few trees thinking that ehhh I can always take more off later. But then I just ended up staring at it while it was trying to recover and doing a trunk chop on a recovering tree in a pot is just insult to injury on the fine roots.
Cut it all the way in the field step one while the tree is well anchored. This helps clear the way for the dig anyway.

I had a tree that I trenched around and started to cut the tap when I realized my saw was way dull. Note to self always carry a backup saw. Anyway, I just filled the trench and left it because the buds were opening when I went back.
It was a real bummer at the time but I have actually enjoyed watching that tree over the summer. I took a trip out to see it every couple months and it really grew out alot faster then the ones that I collected. Can't wait to find out what new fine roots close to the trunk there are now.
 
Great observations Travis, agreed completely. What kind of tree are you preparing?
 
Over the past several springs, I’ve been trying to collect hornbeam, beech, crab apple, black cherry, and hawthorn. At the time of collection, I’ll chop the trunks down to about 3 feet (so that they fit in the car). The trees usually break bud in early summer and leaf out. After having leafed out, however, many of the trees die in mid summer. Also, the trunks on my crabs and hawthorns tend to crack and split down the middle.

I’ve considered doing the initial chop the winter before collection in order to minimize cutting on the tree at the time of collection. Does this seem like a good idea to anyone? Should I do a longer or more extensive pre-prep before I dig?

Thanks,
Casey

I collect hornbeam, beech and hawthorn among other species, with 80-90% success rates, using the following technique:

1. I collect all of the above species in January and February. I do not wait until buds are swelling, though this may not be harmful to survival rates.
2. Each tree is cut to about 12-30" in height, depending on basal thickness (2-8", respectively, for the heights noted). The trunks should not be left overly long.
3. Roots are cut back severely, to roughly 8" from the trunk base (final cuts are made at home, using either a trunk splitter or saw). (All the new roots will sprout from the cut ends, so hack away.)
4. The collected tree, with whatever soil remains (often none) is buried in a tub filled with a bonsai mix that includes sand for water retention. It's then watered thoroughly to keep it moist during the ride home.
5. Within three hours (my typical collecting range), the trees are given their final prep before potting in grow pots (or tubs, for larger specimens). All native soil is washed from the roots, rooting hormone dusted on the cut ends, and all cuts over 1/2" are sealed with cut paste (do NOT fail to seal the cuts, the tree will dry out from the cut ends and mortality rates will rise).
6. Trees usually bud out in spring, not summer. Late budding does not necessarily spell death, but it often signals weakness that is difficult to overcome.
7. I use a cordless reciprocating saw, equipped with either a 6" or 12" pruning blade, to collect everything. If your soil is not rocky, you're crazy to use a shovel or hand saw. If your soil is rocky, you're on your own.
8. Never try to collect black cherry. They just don't work out.

I specialize in deciduous species, been at it for 25 years, so I'm speaking from experience.

I hope this helps.

Zach
 
Brian - that was a Cedar Elm


Zach - A cordless sawzall is the way to go but alas I am all up in the limestone here in central Texas. Very rocky. Should start a topic on collecting tools or bring up an older one. Don't want to Hijack this thread cause I am all about tools.

Casey - A big question besides where are you located is what are you putting the tree in when you get it home? Your soil might make a bigger difference on the recover then how much you trunk chop. At least it does for me.
 
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Zach - A cordless sawzall is the way to go but alas I am all up in the limestone here in central Texas. Very rocky. Should start a topic on collecting tools or bring up an older one. Don't want to Hijack this thread cause I am all about tools.
Cordless sawzall with carbide blade can still help you a lot ;)

But if I am collecting at rocky areas...#1 will be a big crowbar.
Edit in: Also a big and small digging pick. I find a lopper & pruning saw is very useful in cutting roots in hard to reach places.

Check these from Sandev...
http://www.yamadoriarea.blogspot.com/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjXZ65IXQrw
 
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Brian - that was a Cedar Elm


Zach - A cordless sawzall is the way to go but alas I am all up in the limestone here in central Texas. Very rocky. Should start a topic on collecting tools or bring up an older one. Don't want to Hijack this thread cause I am all about tools.

Casey - A big question besides where are you located is what are you putting the tree in when you get it home? Your soil might make a bigger difference on the recover then how much you trunk chop. At least it does for me.
Yeah, maybe start with a crowbar and add a tile remover (you know the ones with the loooong handles, should give you better leverage when you need it).

One final note on after-collection care. Be sure to bury your big cut roots to ensure they don't dry out. It's tempting to leave them exposed when they look nice, but it's also very risky.

Zach
 
Thanks to everybody for all the practical advice.

I do my collecting on an old farm in the rolling hill country of central West Virginia (zone 6). The summers tend to be dry and hot.

Some trees I put in grow boxes in regular bonsai type soil (equal parts pine bark, turface, and grit sized around 1/8“ ). Some I put in a very clay heavy growing bed (I’ve been trying to improve the tilth recently).

Casey
 
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